three
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Posts posted by three
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A very lightly used set of short-scale Rotosound 88s tru bass black nylon tape wound strings. These were cut for a 2 a side short-scale bass. Length of the E and G strings is 870mm (measured from the ball end to the start of the turn for the winding), and that for the A and D strings is 940mm. Yellow/gold silks are in very good but not perfect condition. I can ship in the UK for around £3.00. The cheapest that I can see these on-line is £40.
Full details are here:
https://www.rotosound.com/product/rs88s/
Any questions, please just ask
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A Dunlop Super Pot - split shaft, 250k. These are advertised at between £15 and £24. This one is brand new and comes in its original packaging. I can ship at buyer's risk and cost for around £3.00. All details are here: https://www.jimdunlop.com/super-pot-250k-split-shaft-potentiometer/
Any questions, please just ask.
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Reduced to £50 - a Lakland US Precision pickup taken from a US 44-64 bass. I've had this lying around for a while now. It comes in a Fralin box that appears to have a bit of history - Vinny F (Fodera?) is crossed out on the lid. Not a selling point at all, just curious. The pickup is in very good, used condition with a few marks on the pickup covers. There's plenty of wire for fitting. I can ship in the UK (at buyer's risk) for about £5.00, though collection in Manchester city centre is good. Any questions, please just ask.
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I appear to have accumulated a number of gold bridges that I don't need. This one is a very shiny, gold BBOT - standard Fender fit. It was sold to me as a Wilkinson, but doesn't have the Wilkinson name engraved on the baseplate. It appears to have brass saddles (they're a slightly different colour to the gold plate). Brand new, unfitted and unused. I can ship in the UK (at buyer's risk) for about £3.00. Any questions, please just ask.
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Price reduced to £70. I appear to have accumulated a number of gold bridges that I don't need. This is a brand new, unfitted Hipshot Kickass in its original packaging and with all screws and spares etc. I only opened the packaging to check that all was in order. These seem to go for around £120 (that’s what I paid) - I think BD has them in stock. I can ship in the UK (at buyer's risk) for around £5. Any questions, please just ask.
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I appear to have accumulated a number of gold bridges that I don't need. This one is a Gotoh 404 BO4 (details here: https://g-gotoh.com/product/404bo-4/?lang=en)
These seem to sell new for around £80, though it doesn't appear there are many available. This one is in good but used condition and is fully functional. It's in the correct Gotoh packaging but doesn't have the correct product stickers. There are a few minor marks from mounting but the unit is very clean and the plating is in excellent order. Shipping (at buyer's risk) should be around £4 in the uk.
The link above should provide all size and fitting details. Any questions, please just ask.
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14 hours ago, Skezza said:
are you interested in a trade
Thanks, but not really - I’m trying to make space and sell-off gear that I’m not using. I’m also trying to curb a bad habit of buying things I don’t need
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On 18/06/2023 at 14:45, Gianni "Orlandez" Orlati said:
Stupid question mine but I want to ask it the same .. how can the height of each of the bridge saddles be adjusted? Is it possible to do so?
Sorry, I just saw this and not a stupid question at all - indeed, a good one. It isn't possible to adjust each saddle individually. Height adjustment for all saddles is effected via the two bolts - one at either end of the bridge. Quite common with vintage style (especially Gibson-type) basses as far as I can see, though not ideal for some players
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Absolutely love this - a bit of a Ripper vibe here (I hadn't noticed until this was pointed-out in a previous thread). Better balance than a Ripper I'd have thought, given the strap pin placement. Stunner!
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9 hours ago, lemmywinks said:
Sold listing prices seem to be between £20 and £35, I was given one many moons ago, like you said good fun but long since superceeded by Zoom's more recent offerings.
Thanks, probably better as PM but I appreciate the guidance
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Price reduced to £25. I got this from a mate of mine and I'm selling on his behalf. I found it for his son around 15 years ago. I stuck-in some cheap batteries and all appears to work. It's actually incredibly good fun and I wasted an hour with it after giving it a good clean. If you're into low-fi, retro effects on the cheap, this could be for you. The unit is actually pretty versatile and has programming capabilities - the instruction manual is readily available on the Zoom site. This example is in excellent condition for its age - it looks pretty shiny. Comes in a Zoom GR707 box (possibly original to this unit - 'not sure if the BFX would have had a dedicated box). I don't have the power supply. I think £25 sounds cheap - these seem to be advertised between £50-80?
Collection in central Manchester would be lovely but I can ship at the buyer's cost and risk (about £5 I'd have thought).
Any questions of a technical nature are probably not for me - anything of a more general or practical nature, please just ask.
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33 minutes ago, Gabriel1918 said:
Thanks three. Sounds good. Are you running your Monique into the return socket of your effects loop then?
There’s a power amp ‘in’ on the back of a 750. Not sure about the 751 - I’ll take a look
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Just now, Gabriel1918 said:
Thanks three. I was thinking the same. I've also been looking at the Aguilar DB750/ 751 too and I have a good feeling about that, so thank you again for your suggestions. Do you know offhand if they are Class D or A/B?
No problem - both the DB750 and 751 are class A/B. As a result, they're pretty monstrously heavy. As far as I know, the power section is very similar in both and each weighs in the region of 42lbs (though frankly, the 750 feels a little heavier to me).
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Bypassing the front-end of an integrated has worked very well for me - if you have an Agi TH500, I'd try that before spending on a dedicated power amp.
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I’ve been using a Monique for around 18 months. The best pairing to my ears is undoubtedly with the power section of an Agi DB750 - all the width, depth and dynamics are there. However, there’s an obvious drawback in terms of physical weight. The least pleasant pairing was with a Wayne Jones powered 110, but I’m pretty sure that’s down to the cabinet design. I’m not massively keen on playing through studio monitors and that’s sort of what you get with the WJs. Another very nice pairing, though well short of the Agi with critical listening, is with a GSS Baby Sumo. Super light, fast, accurate and reasonably priced. I also use a Warwick Hellborg stereo power amp but haven’t had the pleasure yet with the Monique. Knowing the Hellborg quite well, I suspect the pairing would be excellent. Problem is, I can hardly lift the Hellborg (the weight is nuts). I’d honestly be thinking class A/B with the Monique if feasible. Good luck - some excellent suggestions above
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I own an Alembic Stanley Clarke Deluxe. I had absolutely no concerns that my playing would start to emulate that of Stanley, and it genuinely hasn't.
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Used to be mine. Lovely timbers. The board was far too wide for me but a really nice instrument.
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Unbelievable bargain! If I could get on with the ergonomics of these (I had a US NS2), this would be gone. One of BC’s finest sellers too. I can’t see this lasting ‘til lunchtime
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8 minutes ago, Clarky said:
Might be worth adding pic of side of fretboard because I believe some fretless 4003s have side dots "on the fret", while in some years the dots were in the between-fret position
I was just drooling over this and thinking the same thing. Absolutely beautiful!
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Monster. When I walk into a venue and see one of these, I feel a kind of (usually well-placed) confidence re: player and tone.
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It's a really frustrating problem and I sympathise. I have dead spots on many basses (I'm pretty sensitive to this) including on a short-scale fretless at around D and Eb on the G. One of few basses that I have that doesn't have any noticeable dead spots is an early, headless Status SII. Another is a fretless J type with a Status graphite neck. This sort of adds weight to some of the comments re: NS and resonances above. Changing strings can make a short, frequently temporary improvement, as can tweaking the set-up - mainly truss-rod - though I tend to play with a very low action and a flat board (minimal relief). I've found over the years that dead spots are just something that I have to tolerate. I've not been able to remove them completely on any bass, though it has been possible to reduce their prominence. I've not tried a fat-finger, that said, I rarely play Fender-type basses. I tend to obsess a little with dead spots, though when playing live and even recording, unless they're really severe, they become a bit of a non-issue. Perhaps better to listen to the bass overall rather than the dead-spot (I'm telling myself this)?
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On 26/05/2023 at 17:04, Old Horse Murphy said:
So for purely ergonomic reasons I decided to part ways with my Guild Starfire I as it just wasn't working for me. I did however, miss the weight as I've got an issue with my hip that (although healing slowly) is still problematic.
A few days ago I saw a used Spector Bantam advertised on Bass Direct and decided I'd go and try it out. I've never owned a Spector before but was attracted by the weight (just over 7.5lbs) and wanted to see how the bass would sit, given the top strap button sits a bit further up towards the dusty end than my usual Fenders which are near enough level with the 12th fret.
After kindly being lent a strap to try out, I found the placement of the strap button meant the nut and lower frets sit pretty-much in the same place as my 34" scale basses so the Bantam immediately felt familiar and my hands didn't feel cramped at all due to the shorter scale.
The bass is immaculate and I loved the EMG electrics so decided to take it home. We have our first proper date tomorrow but the way things are going right now, I think I'm on a promise.
Love this - I’ve not tried one but have a Spector Shorty - similar but heavier (my go to bass along with the Mullarkey). The Bantam appears to have the more dramatic, and nicer to me, body contouring. Gorgeous - I need to take a closer look
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3 hours ago, Clarky said:
@FinnDave this might fit the bill for your shortie tryout and three is a tremendous BCer to deal with?
Hahaha, thanks Clarky - that's lovely and it's entirely mutual! I think what Clarky means is three is bl**dy clown and spends every spare penny on basses and bass ephemera that he doesn't need or have the talent to use properly
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ah, this was mine for a while. An absolutely superb bass - fabulous finish from DW
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Dedicated Power Amp for Jule Amps Monique?
in Amps and Cabs
Posted
Thanks for this - I run the Monique into the 'power amp in' on the back of the DB750. This bypasses the preamp section of the latter, though it should be possible to do the same with the effects return (I just don't use that option). The DB751 doesn't appear to have the 'power amp in' on the back panel - I suspect that this was dropped as a (semi) redundant feature. The 751 is a superb amp, and has the 'improved' tone-stack. That said, I retain a slight preference for the 750 (I know a few users of the big Aggies that feel the same). My DB750 was in for a switch repair for a short while recently (my fault - snapped a switch whilst swinging the amp around - it's a bit of a beast to carry). I used a GSS Baby Sumo to deputise - Class D obviously. The Monique performed gloriously with that, as does a Warwick Hellborg pre. For most practical purposes, I'd go with the Class D idea. However, there is a significant difference when using the pres with the 750. Perhaps more coloured, but more of everything - bigger, wider, higher, deeper. Dynamics are tremendous. Ridiculous to try to express this in words, but there's certainly a very positive difference when listening very critically. I hope this helps. I'm going to dig the Hellborg power amp out of storage if I can lift it. This thread has inspired me