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Posts posted by three
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Another superb transaction with Owen - everything exactly as described - the case arrived quickly, well-packed and in very good condition (actually better than I'd expected). Owen's reputation for probity and honesty is well-established - a star in our firmament!
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Any high street locksmith would get into this in seconds and probably for pennies. I lost a flight case key years ago (the lock was a bit more sophisticated than the Fender-type case locks) - the local locksmith got into the case very easily and produced a new bespoke/hand-made key for about a fiver.
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Without wishing to pull a sales thread further into a discussion of Wal pricing, this beautiful bass could be a very useful hedge with respect to a couple of years of relatively high inflation.
Onto topic, it appears that Paul has performed a wonderful restoration job - is it possible to source original Wal knobs to complete the 'new' look? Given it's a genuine Wal, Paul may be willing to supply these to a verified purchaser, though I suspect it's an expensive addition. A very lovely bass from an excellent period (IMO) of Wal's history - I'm rather surprised that this wasn't snapped up within 24 hours
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That looks lovely - a really good buy and a pretty accurate copy in many respects. As Shaggy notes, Kimbara were at the higher-end in the copy market back in the '70s (I was discussing this with a guitarist mate just the other evening). In my experience, Rippers tend to be pretty light - mine (I think) is one of the earlier Alder production. The body is large but fairly slender compared to a Fender. Unfortunately, mine arrived (second hand in around '79) without its TRC, though somebody in the shop found me a Grabber TRC - no idea where that got to. I didn't know about the dark tort on the earliest Rippers and mine came with a black plate. The latter was replaced when the bass went through some fairly dramatic customisation in the early '80s. More recently (last ten years or so), I've noticed that something seems to be gassing in the flight case - the finish (as beautiful a spray job as it is) appears to be coated in a form of sticky white dust - removing the stuff is quite a challenge. Here's picture for reference (next to the old Status I used to play back in the '80s) - you can see that the body is fairly thin. I'd go with the rear string load option too if possible - mine was pre rear string plate and just has the holes for insertion of strings. If you zoom the image below, you'll see the little string ferrules on the front of the bass - probably a good idea to include these, though those on my Ripper were already cracked and slightly distorted by the time I received the bass. The re-spray worked around the cracking.
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I tend to find that basses with a higher action project harmonics with greater prominence. I play with a very low action and harmonics on my basses often lack brightness and 'ping'. I know very little of the physics of this and it's just a personal observation (and as many of those who share my company would suggest, I could be talking nonsense).
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I'm sure that this is a very well designed and beautifully built unit (my communications with Jule have convinced me that he's an extremely talented and very lovely guy), though it reminds me of why - after years and years of trying very many high-end valve pres - I really prefer their SS counterparts. The saturation, compression and drive doesn't work for me - and I realise I'm probably in a minority.
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Fabulous transaction with Dunc - rapid payment and really good to chat throughout! A first class member of our community - thanks Dunc!
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Good luck with this - and be careful. If you're using nickel strings (pure or coated), that may be (part of) the issue - some people have an intolerance of/allergy to nickel. It can be serious too and can be a cause of rashes, blistering and muscle pain. As those above have suggested, if not an allergy, it's probably just an issue of perseverance or time. That said, if the dryness is causing discomfort, I'd try a little (basic/simple) moisturiser before playing, then more when you stop. I'd also wipe the strings fairly thoroughly both before and after playing - this applies particularly to round wound strings. Again, good luck with it and I hope that the problem is quickly surmounted.
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1 hour ago, MikanHannille said:
Just out of curiosity, what run of the mill cab do you pair this with?
Mainly with an Agi sl112 but sounds great with a Berg HD210
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Mesa Boogie Subway Plus Di-Preamp in excellent (almost 'as new') condition - £300. The unit functions perfectly and the only minor imperfections are a few micro nicks on a couple of edges. I'm being really picky here - these really are tiny but I'm obsessive about this kind of thing. I touched in the marks with some black acrylic on an 00 brush and they're now almost imperceptible (they were almost invisible without the touch-up!)
The specs for the unit are available here: https://www.mesaboogie.com/amplifiers/bass/preamplifier-series/subway-bass-di-preamp-plus/preamp-plus.html. Essentially, the unit is the front-end of a Mesa Subway D-800+ amp. It's extremely full-featured and a very versatile tool. It's actually overkill for me - I have a few pre-DIs and just need something very simple, hence the sale (but a listing that may be withdrawn quickly if an incoming simple pre doesn't fit the bill). The high-pass and voicing controls work superbly well, as do the semi parametric mids. The unit has adhesive rubber feet on the bottom - they work well and are slip resistant but are not original (as far as I know, the unit wasn't supplied with the feet and I suspect that most people simply apply velcro anyway). All original packing and documentation is included - Mesa does not supply a PSU - I've used a battery for simplicity and the results are excellent.
As far as I can see, these are almost impossible to source in the UK and Europe - Anderton's and GuitarGuitar have the item listed (on order) at between £409 to £449 but neither have had stock for a very long time (and, given supply issues, aren't likely to have any in the near future, if at all).
Price is £300 and I can ship in the UK - at buyer's risk - at cost and with insurance for around £15 (or a little less). I'm taking quite a hit on this so no offers thanks, and I'm not looking for any trades. Please ignore the £310 price in the listing too - this was an error and I'm unable to change it.
Any questions, please just ask, and mods, if this should be advertised in another section, please feel free to move!
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An immaculate Hotone Nano Legacy Thunder Bass with all original packing and PSU. This has had very little use and is in excellent condition - I can't find any marks anywhere. Extremely good fun and a really surprisingly full and warm tone - also surprisingly loud for the rated 5w (I understand that these are class A/B). The preamp is genuinely very impressive. The unit is designed to emulate an SVT and does this remarkably well. However, it's also a very versatile if simple tone-stack. These seem to sell for £74 including shipping (Andertons, Thomann). I'm selling at £50 (and can ship - at buyer's risk - in the UK for around £5). Any questions, please just ask.
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1 hour ago, Platypus said:
They would be Dunlop flats 45-105
Thank you!
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A set of unused (brand new) TI Jazz Rounds (JR346) in gauges 29, 43, 51 68, 89, 118. These are long-scale strings (i.e., for 34" scale basses). They appear to sell for £78 in the UK so £50 sounds reasonable to me. I can ship at cost in the UK.
TI rounds are wound onto a round core and are extremely compliant/soft. The outer wraps are also very fine so minimise string noise/fret wear and have a defined but (to my ears) fairly soft tone. I find these really easy to set-up after re-stringing. If you're reading this, I'm sure you'll be aware of the quality of TI strings - amongst the very best out there.
Just let me know if you need further details.
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A set of unused (brand new) TI Jazz Rounds (JR344) in gauges 43, 51 68, 89. These are long-scale strings (i.e., for 34" scale basses). These appear to sell for £53 upwards so £37 sounds reasonable to me. I can ship at cost in the UK.
TI rounds are wound onto a round core and are extremely compliant/soft. The outer wraps are also very fine so minimise string noise/fret wear and have a defined but (to my ears) fairly soft tone. I find these really easy to set-up after re-stringing. If you're reading this, I'm sure you'll be aware of the quality of TI strings - amongst the very best out there.
Just let me know if you need further details.
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This looks absolutely lovely and I'm looking forward to further pics. Can you include details re: weight and nut width too? A very nice example!
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I'd have a word with Bow Finishers just South of London. Fantastically high quality work and they spray for some of the big name UK custom luthiers. They can spray in a variety of media and will know what to use. Prices are very reasonable for the quality. Good luck and it would be great to see the body both pre and post clear-coat.
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3 minutes ago, scrumpymike said:
Especially for short-scale basses. Weight is often a major reason for choosing s-s but some are relatively heavy.
Very true and two basses of the same model can exhibit significant variance - I have a couple of short-scale Spectors (almost exactly the same spec apart from pickups/ciruit) and there's a difference in weight of more than a pound
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2 hours ago, Steve Browning said:
Exactly my view. Even the most expensive custom shop basses are close to ruined by the awful scratchplates.
I'd agree Steve - the tort on the Custom Shop basses is almost unbelievably awful. I've had a couple and it's the first thing to go - I'm not sure how Fender CS can justify that junk
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56 minutes ago, Sparky Mark said:
That looks very much like the material used on Fender American Standards, which is/was pretty good.
I have the same Tinytone tort on a Wilcock - I'll try get a better image (with the bevelled edge) as soon as we get some light
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13 hours ago, Sparky Mark said:
But do any of the above have a good tortoiseshell laminate? Other than the hugely expensive Spitfire they're mostly awful pepperoni looking pale immitations of the original 60s stuff.
Without wanting to derail the thread, Tinytone have a wide selection of materials including three (I think) versions of celluloid nitrate tort - essentially different base hues from red through to brown. It's at the better end of the contemporary celluloid IMO and has a depth and richness that many lack - probably not quite as detailed and rich as some '60s tort but not bad. I had a couple of control plates made - you can see one here - the depth of the plate implied that the surface was a little proud. Tinytone suggested a bevel as this would reveal the upper white ply and this provides a nice border - not that it's really visible here.
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15 hours ago, Thunderbird said:
Pickguards really are expensive nowadays
I agree, however, there’s a short ‘production’ video on the Tinytone site (I found it yesterday whilst looking for the link, see below) and it sort of explains the costs involved in creating a hand-made, custom plate. Quite a lot of steps and a fair bit of kit involved. It opened my eyes a bit - the plates I had made were relatively small but non-standard.
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Trace Elliot SM7 ( see text for details) £30
in Effects For Sale
Posted
Brilliant pre - perfect if your looking for the Trace pre-shape(s) in a little box