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Geek99

⭐Supporting Member⭐
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Everything posted by Geek99

  1. really very light - I can lift it with one hand - neck dive isnt an issue for me. Cost and look are - needed to be cheap and needed to look different.
  2. does clicking on this work ? onedrive
  3. i'll try and find time to weigh it. its smoother with the sealer, even unsanded.
  4. Don’t know other people can see them
  5. i just put the neck plate on, and marked them. I bought a gizmo from amazon to drill straight holes. Useful also for bridge and ferrules as its totally easy to pink torpedo it up https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B075MHP2TF/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Not drilling holes in body until grainfiling and sealing is done.
  6. @BrunoBass bruno, as you know I'm doing a pawlownia jazz - I recommend using sanding sealer as it really makes the grain jump out - see my build thread photos; I've just uploaded an A/B photo of with and without sanding sealer on a piece of pine. Found that the perfect tool for applying it is a clean washing-up sponge.
  7. i'm at exactly this stage it looks like you've got it quite watery there ? are you planning to use sanding sealer ?
  8. there's something weird going on with that nut as well, looking closely at the headstock photo you can actually see where the old logo was scratched away, does it say "Encore"? - or Columbus ? early jap copy is my guess
  9. i don't hate him for owning a ferrari, i hate him personally because he is such an utter tw@t ...albeit good lyricist and frontman
  10. surely that's more of an impossibility than a mere oxymoron? ** ** everyone knows guitards cannot string such a coherent sentence together
  11. @NancyJohnson I was curious about this - I found this discussion https://forums.fender.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=104873 - if you read down to "58", its stated that brass plates started in the 58 model and thus would not be present in his 57 model above (if they are trying for historical accuracy of course) - I've seen them on seventies models, but no later
  12. i couldn't find one there - i found something similar - see above for the ASIN @alyctes
  13. I couldn’t find one like that; instead I bought this asin: B075MHP2TF
  14. Sure but tips for not going wonky when drilling through First ? The string holes I have a bradawl so pilot holes not a problem
  15. @kodiakblair can you tell me the knack of getting the string thru holes even ? thanks
  16. I have, and I think they were steadily getting better from about 2005 - mid-to-late 90s was a bit duff, but then I owned Leigh Gordon's late 90s model (Morcheeba) and it was at least "okay" quality even then. I think they got an undeservedly bad press since 2000.
  17. That's pretty much consensus then, thanks all
  18. is the blue bass an export model, whereas the red one is domestic market?
  19. thanks its an allparts vintage bridge with threaded saddles.
  20. thank you
  21. Hi can someone please tell me the correct length from the nut to the back ridge of the bridge? On a jazz bass please thank you
  22. All; I’m aware that the sanding is a bit rough on the grain filler photo. I’ve not done graim filling before and I was foolish enough to take only a small piece of sandpaper to work. I’ll sand the grain filler sampler down a bit before I try sealer or paint this coming week: 1. sanding sealer on the sampler; assuming this will change the colour a bit based on something MGT wrote about clear coats on his site 2. Drill holes for neck plate, bridge, straplocks, rear pup wires. Ferrules and string thru holes might have to wait a bit until I can liaise with Norris 3. Blowing some paint onto the sealed and sanded grain filler on the stick weather permitting
  23. There is a picture of it in the gallery, also one with the neck (mighty mite) dry fitted so you can evaluate the gap. I’ve seen worse on fenders edit : and for two components coming from totally different directions it’s not too bad
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