Geek99

I found that I was going all swing timing when leading with my index finger. I lead with my middle finger and it’s much more consistent

I have exactly this and it’s good - the rectangular part works for acoustic guitar tuners as well as bass the weird horseshoe part is an acoustic bridge pin puller

It has saved partners bacon more than a few times to be able to geolocate her keys

All I want for Christmas….. iiiiisssssss….. 🎶an AirTag for my car keys

You can buy radius gauges and so learn but also maintain the radius as you work https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwjLrfK6xLmCAxWZme0KHQrXBWcYABANGgJkZw&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIy63yusS5ggMVmZntCh0K1wVnEAQYBiABEgIQWfD_BwE&sph=&sig=AOD64_392f9atchnt_3QDbR1vSWViFfLFA&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwiT2-q6xLmCAxXARkEAHTsWAC4Qwg8oAHoECAUQKg&adurl=

Or maybe fix a strip of foam pipe insulation at that height Simples

Use a wood bounce strip at the level where the basses lower points hang

Maybe it is stuck -it’s only a short wrench, I’ll find a longer one i got it for free, all i had to add were cheap nut, saddle and pins. If it doesn’t work out it’s not the end of the world

Yes, you helped me with a bass ski jump i have the right sized wrench

Still no bow back ill try tuning it and lowering saddle and see where I end up

didn’t I paste a thread for you on this very topic ? @The Attic Man

I’ve done this in an attempt to push the neck to conform , strings are slack and the bottles are just above the carpet rather than sitting on it kill or cure

Worth drawing a line on the saddle bar with pencil before you start and then measure to bottom so you know how much you’ve removed

The word on the street is that stiff neck wood on cheapies can resist a truss rod and they advocate leaving it maxed and left propped such that pressure is applied in the desired direction https://www.talkbass.com/threads/truss-rod-doesnt-seem-broken-but-doesnt-affect-the-relief-at-all.1120878/ @Andyjr1515 thoughts ?

It doesn’t seem to shift much i got the guitar with a flat neck and a slack feeling rod-nut. It’s gone tight now but I cannot detect any back-bend in the neck can they simply stop changing the neck somehow ? The hex nut gives me the feeling of “shan’t” when I try and tighten it more

Wire wool? Gives a lovely finish after sanding

I think the truss rod is maxed out clockwise but I cannot see any movement in the neck - had expected middle frets to touch strings when first and last frets held but not so. Is that possible in a maxed out situation ?

The neck relief doesn’t seem to have shifted. I loosened the strings and left it near a radiator to see if the back bow kicked in. this isn’t for me btw, I have not turned to the dark side 🤮

Measuring the other guitar I think the bridge bar is about 3mm too high owing to the piezo and also the new nut needs to be slotted lower

It’s got too much forward bow, so I’m trying to reduce that by turning the truss rod nut clockwise. I think that’s correct

10-50 light ill check under the piezo, hadn’t thought of that. The other acoustic I got had two toothpick fragments in there. I don’t know why, I got perfect relief and super low action without them the neck may be screwed, but equally it was abandoned and unstrung for a few years so may ping into life with some time

Could anyone with an acoustic guitar please tell me what gap they have at fret 12 holding first and last fret? I still have forwards bow and the truss rod isn’t willing to go further. I’ll leave it overnight. Holding fret 1 and fret 14 I have 2mm at fret 6, I read that it should be nearer 0.9mm am I right in thinking that sanding down the bridge bar is the only way to reduce action ? It’s electro acoustic and a standard new bridge bar so started out too high, just seem to be taking a lot off for the pickup filament