It didn't slip my mind at all, Mr G
Sunburst, which I like ,
(genuine) relic looks, which I like,
Will I like it once I've got it playing right instead of like a Jameson-reject ? Don't know but It's a contender, that much is sure
I discovered that a simple precision was all I needed. I do fancy a jazz bass but haven't found one yet that I really like
Edit: there was a jap 75 reissue I regret letting go
Ok thanks will set them level relative to bridge
Ill measure my precisions neck relief at 12th for reference
Can someone advise a standard gap in mm at 12th when holding string at 1st and 20th ?
no, it says "For fender" on it. - so dont think it was made by Fender themselves.
Do recall a story that early basses were resprayed by the importers and put in locally produced "licenced" cases before distribution. I read it on here.
Seems to be made of fibreboard or very heavy cardboard.
I think it was actually to mimic the fingerbvaord radius.
I looked at my p bass and all the saddles are virtually in a line, so all strings amost exactly the same length. I havent changed it since the bass doc set it up.
I think though that if I move the jazz's saddles very much that although the action will change and become lower it will go out of intonation
The screws are definitely at a more extreme angle than my precision
[quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1390254814' post='2343304']
I've just checked my Squier Active Deluxe Jazz and the saddle intonation adjustment screws and string hole locations look to be in the same place as the bridge on your Fender. All of the long saddle screws angle down slightly, with the G the most affected, the only difference is I set my saddles horizontal (the bridge has shallow channels for the saddle height screws to run in).
[/quote]
Ok but the screws are at a steep angle so I can't set them level
I'll measure my p bass strung length and set the jazz saddles to match as a rough start
Intonation is spot on though
I just bought this bass - previously used by the bassist in morcheeba and toured extensively
http://s1149.photobucket.com/user/geek99/library/morcheeba%20jazz%20
It's a bit roadworn
Yep - lots of people here gig cheap basses. I'm a great believer in "if it feels comfy and you like the sound it makes, then it's good enough" doesn't matter what the headstock says.
It had more neck relief than I have ever thought possible. Leigh Gordon said to me "is that a lot of neck relief? I just play them".
After a fair few turns following a spell in a warm room, new strings and some TLC the neck is more where it should be. The body and neck (lemon oil) cleaned up nicely and the frets came up well with some duraglit.
The bridge seems a bit strange- normally on a BBOT the screw holes and strings holes are roughly alongside each other. Here the string holes are low and the screw holes are up high - this means that the saddles are angled down undeer string pressure and so setting intonation inevitably raises the action. It is however in the same state as the rest of the bass so I think its original. It has strat type knobs as many early Mex jazz basses do.
I will, but I'm baby sitting at moment and it's not the done thing
It needs a serious clean up, fret polish and Truss rod fettle as it's currently enjoying Jamerson degrees of neck relief. Got this case with it
http://s1149.photobucket.com/user/geek99/library/case
Has an orange tolex lining
If I ever decide to move it on, it will be listed here first for fans to get first refusal on
Does anyone know amything about these ?
Got it as part of an eBay trade - seven photos in all. Seems to be made of some kind of fibre boards - badge says "for fender"
http://s1149.photobucket.com/user/geek99/library/case
I have some paste called "astonish" - would that work better than TCut ? It might take the shine off the laquer if uused gently and rub through where used more firmly
[quote name='dlloyd' timestamp='1375866312' post='2166551']
This would certainly work to yellow it, as well as the plastic fittings (pickguard and knobs)
Yellowing is the bane of another, slightly sadder hobby that I used to have (honestly, used to), collecting Star Wars action figures. Original 70s/80s figures are often badly discoloured, particularly those with white plastic parts such as Stormtroopers. The UV in sunlight is the main culprit.
[/quote]
Top tip - conservatory cleaner restores the whiteness