88reaper88

Ask the guy for pics without the tape and get a nice close up of the headstock

Necks shouldn't move even with the strings off. Shim it!

Picked up a bargain from Si today, couldn't be happier. Top bloke! Thanks again Si

If your running out of adjustment room, it may be time to move the bridge back.

Just an idea; Why not fibreglass the polystyrene body and actually use that? Might be an interesting experiment tone-wise

Am I wrong in thinking adjusting the truss rod for a high action isn't the way to do it? Surely the main way of adjusting the action is at the bridge and nut? The high action will mess the intonation up, especially if there's a big bow in the neck.

Ram a match or two in the hole and screw them back in, works a treat

[quote name='stevie' timestamp='1416760446' post='2613260'] So how exactly do you measure the impedance of a big door ......? [/quote] Depends how fat you are

If you think of the signal being people and the cabs being doors into a venue, the bigger door (less resistance, 4ohm) will have more people going through it then a smaller door (more resistance, 8ohm)

[size=3]Ohms are units/measurements of resistance. [/size] [size=3]In a nut shell: More ohms = harder for the signal to get through = less wattage from the amp. [/size] [size=3]But due to crazy maths and physics and planets aligning this can be combatted by adding Ohms (more cabs) through the correct wiring. [/size] [size=3]For example, Two 8ohms cabs going into a head, wired in parallel will produce a total resistance of 4ohms = all the watts of the heads are 'used'. [/size][size=3]But two 8ohms in series will give you 16ohms[/size] [size=3]There's literally thousands of threads/website/YouTube videos on the subject [/size]

Why not try and make your own?

I can only Echo what Pentode said. Looking forward to your build and all my best to your wife

I'd rather have the van