Dan Dare

This is good advice. Even if you can find someone to do it, you will probably devalue the instrument or make it harder to sell. Most players want fretteds. You could look into getting a replacement bolt on neck. You could switch over the tuners to keep cost down. That way you can keep the original and return it to the instrument should you ever wish to sell it.

"Not the greatest for gigging"? Ever heard the expression "beggars can't be choosers"? £230 doesn't buy light, loud and great for gigging. Not bragging, but many of us on here use rigs that cost around ten times your budget. See Downunderwonder's post above. Something has to give.

Appears to be he-who-cannot-be-named's German cousin.

If this is the case, beware of disappearing down the rabbit hole (not to mention spending lots of money) of trying to replicate what you already have and are happy with. Your ST with the volume down for smaller jobs will still sound great and it gives you the option, should you ever need it, to push it for bigger occasions without strain. A Super Compact is a nice cab, but it won't shift air the way a ST can. The laws of physics, Jim. A ST is pretty compact for a big sounding cab, anyway. Far better (and cheaper, by the time you've taken the hit on selling your old cab and bought a new replacement)) to take Chris's advice above and get a decent trolley.

Turn it down.

Absolutely. Given that B&O/IcePower, Hypex, Pascal and others all offer proven, reliable off the shelf modules, it makes no sense for amp manufacturers to try to re-invent the wheel.

It seems we're starting to strain at this. Those with years of expertise and experience, such as Bill, Aged Horse and Stevie, have given good advice above, which should be all we need. To summarise, don't abuse your gear, ensure it matches (within reason - a 1000w amp with a 100w cab is almost bound to end in tears, but smaller discrepancies are fine as long as you are sensible) and that you use it within its specified limits. Accept that drive units, as mechanical devices, are going to wear out/fail on occasion. Even electronics components don't last for ever. C'est la vie.

Stain won't usually seal. It will, however, soak into the wood, which you may not want. If the neck is a mixture of varnished/unvarnished, you will not get an even tint and it could look terrible. There will almost certainly be some of the varnish left on the neck, which will protect the wood. When using sandpaper on a curved surface, it helps to back it with a piece of sponge, so you don't sand a flat into the surface. Friction should keep the sponge in place on the sandpaper. If it doesn't a small piece of double sided tape will.

Sounds as if you may have hit the nail on the head. Amp builders buy in the modules they use. It wouldn't be cost effective to make their own, even if (and it's a big "if") they are capable of doing so.

If you want a very small/light combo with a bit of output, you're going to have to accept that it will be fan cooled. The components are crammed in tightly and there isn't room for heat-sinking.

Companies such as Tool Station, Screwfix and RS Components sell loadsa castors and wheels. You should be able to find one that matches. Even if you don't, a set of 4 is going to be cheaper than £103. A lot cheaper.

My '72 Jazz. Had it since 1982.