Dan Dare

You took the words out of my mouth, Tubster. My meter broke...

I just give mine a clip round the ear if it misbehaves.

They are rare. They were horrible and few people bought them, so there are virtually none about.

Phono sockets? Must be pro kit... I love that headstock, too. So elegant in its simplicity.

Quantity discounts, too. What more could you want?

The ears and the tail, sir. The world's gone to hell in a handcart. The only way is not to buy any of it.

There's a world of difference between achieving tone in a studio and doing so in a live setting. No offence to the OP, but you need a considerably more sophisticated rig than a Rumble 500 to do it at any sort of volume and even then it will be masked/affected by what else is happening when you play in a live band. You don't even hear the true onstage sound in live recordings such as those above - the multitrack will have been re-eq'd/tweaked before release/screening. T-Bay's comment above is very true - what sounds great soloed doesn't necessarily work in a band context. Trying for that holy grail tone is a hiding to nothing, I'm afraid. It always amuses me, for example, that people revere the Ampeg B15 "because Jamerson used one". He may have, but only as a monitor so the studio band could hear the bass. That lovely recorded tone of his was created via a custom built preamp running straight into the board (see various YouTube vid's on the topic).

We can only offer suggestions. It's up to you whether you accept them. The problem is that you don't have a sufficient level of understanding to appreciate good advice, such as that above from Richard. It's just going straight over your head. Perhaps you hope that if you keep asking, a different, possibly easier to understand, response that is more to your liking will materialise. Once again, you need either to get someone who knows what they are talking about to go through it with you. This is not difficult , despite your comment above, provided of course you are happy to pay someone for their time (perhaps that is the sticking point for you). Either that or read up on the topic. There are a plenty of books/online tutorials that will help - you'll have to do your own research about those, but Google is your first port of call. I fear we are wasting our time here. Did (perhaps this may be a possible answer to Richard's question above) those on the singing forum to which you refer lose patience with you?

I reckon it is, too. It's still cheaper than getting two additional C4s.

Google? Trading will not realise the best value for your instruments. Best to sell them privately imho.

Didn't know that. If your BG400 will drive an additional C8, should sound ace.

Good advice, but DON'T give it the heat gun treatment with the grille attached to the cab or you'll cook the drive unit cone.

Bob. Please listen to what a number of us have said and get someone who knows what they are doing to talk/walk you through this in person. Richard's advice above is excellent, but - and I am not attempting to offend or insult you - it's obvious that you are a complete novice and that you cannot understand what he or any of us are saying (you state above that you find our advice confusing. The "whistling" sound you refer to is feedback, btw). It's pointless our attempting to explain things when you lack the knowledge to understand the terms we are using. The only way is to get someone who knows what they are doing to show you how and explain/answer your questions in person.

Welcome to the PJB club. In my experience, once you tried it, it's hard to like the tone of anything else. Re. your questions, the C8 cab is 4ohms. It obviously packs more of a punch than a C4, but check the BG400 can run an ext cab with that impedance. I've an idea it might be 8 minimum, which limits you to a C4. Two C4s (the BG is effectively a C4 with built in amp) is pretty pokey, within reason. Whether they will do the job for you depends how much of an animal your drummer is. I have 3 C4s, but my head will run into 2 ohms. PJB cabs are quite inefficient - they take some driving to give of their best - so even if your BG400 can run a 4ohm ext cab, you may need more power to drive a C8 properly. The PJB Piranha drivers have ceramic magnets, the Neos have neodymium and are lighter. I find the Piranhas have a bit more oomph, but are not quite as smooth/sweet as the Neos.

In the late 70s, I had a Bassman 135 and 2x15 (with Peavey replacement drivers). Fab rig, but large and weighty. Needed a Volvo estate to get it around.

No suggestions for the hand, apart from rest (as the doctor said to the chap who said "It hurts when I do X", don't do X). You shouldn't need to play aggressively to get that mwah sound. If you do, you need to lower the action (the mwah is actually caused by the string vibrating slightly against the board on a fretless). You will most likely need to do it at the nut, as well as or rather than at the bridge end. It's a bit of a fine judgement as to how much to file the nut and it's easy to overdo it, so take it to a good repair/setup man (or woman) if in doubt.

They are rather good, aren't they? As long as you leave the awful octaver alone, they do old skool wonderfully. Norman uses them, after all so they must be all right.

I'd be surprised if Victoria B can even spell irony...

I have sold many things via eBay and have insisted on cash on collection for some (usually musical items which are too large/fragile to post). Musical items also seem to attract scammers and chancers more than other things I sell (fishing tackle, for example), so cash is the safest bet. I have never had a problem. eBay can point to "terms and conditions" all it likes, but they don't trump the law of the land (which allows you to specify payment in the form of your choosing for anything you sell). Of course, I don't try to dodge paying sellers' fees when I sell for cash. I've no doubt eBay would be after me if I did (and quite rightly). When you sell for CoC, make sure you get the buyer to sign a receipt, so they cannot claim they never received the item.

The knob labelled "line", "mic", etc controls the amount of signal entering the speaker. If you are feeding it from a mixing desk or other high level source, you should set it to "line". The "0db" setting on the screen shows the amount of signal the speaker is receiving. I assume you are feeding it with a mixing desk. In that case, set the knob to "line" and control the overall volume with the main output faders on the desk (they determine the level of signal the desk is sending to the speaker). However, you need to know how to set up your mixing desk properly in order to get a good result. As several others suggest, you should really get someone who knows what they are doing to show you (either pay an engineer or buy a knowledgeable friend a drink to show you). It isn't rocket science, but this thread could last until eternity and you still won't be any the wiser...

It's worth the current price for the pickups and bridge.

You simply have to visit a dealer and try some yourself. I could list the usual suspects, but they would be my preferences, not yours. You need to find something that suits you. I have seen 1x10 Epi's, which would be an obvious choice, but they are rare. Any of the good makes (many of them use the same drivers, usually from Eminence) are worth a look.

No. Legally, it's your property and you have the right to specify how you wish to be paid for it. If you want payment in cows or chickens, you are entitled to insist on that should you wish.

I detect a note of irritation in your response. It ain't the cab, it's what you do with the volume control that will determine how much you annoy the neighbours. If you like the sound of your Epi' 310 (which I used to have, incidentally), I suggest you get a decent 1x10. PJB cabs (which are what I use now - I have 3 C4s and use as few/many as a job requires) are excellent if you like a clean tone. They take some driving - they're quite inefficient - and their clarity can fool you into not realising how loud you are running them. However, the point about bass frequencies travelling through structure will apply whatever cab you use. Putting a cab on thick foam to de-couple it from the floor may help.

Just signify acceptance of PayPal but make it clear in the listing that it's cash on collection only. If someone sends a PP payment, refund it and tell them to come with the readies..