Dan Dare

The older TE cabs had a XLR speaker connector in addition to a jack. XLRs have been made redundant for speaker connection since the arrival of the Speakon (they were never much better than jacks, save for the fact that they locked. The contact area was small and it was nigh on impossible to use heavy gauge speaker cables with them).

Cannot find a way to edit the illustration, but how about one with no wear for collectors?

Spot on, Bill. Setting the eq at noon merely gives you the preamp designer's tonal preference.

Like one of those books that will make you two inches taller...

"May not be comfortable to play"... I should cocoa.

I reckon it might need modification before stringing up to be safe, unless you use VERY light strings. That tail-piece looks to be thin sheet metal, secured by just 2 screws into the face of the body. Even if they're into a block, it doesn't appear very secure. String tension could easily pull them up/out. The tail-piece ought ideally to run over the edge of the instrument and pull against the end of the body. Or am I being too fussy? Yes, I know bridges on Fenders, etc are screwed into the face of the body, but they use 5 screws.

You should be able to get away with a shallow, rather than full depth rack case with a Blacksmith, which will save you a bit of bulk/weight. Something like this - https://www.thomann.de/gb/gator_gr_4s.htm.

In which case, the answer must be suck it and see. I always liked 2x10 + 1x15 when I had that set-up, but two 2x10s is pretty nice too. In the eye (or ear) of the beholder and all that.

That or a hot dog sausage...

Fender PJ? Jazz neck on a P body. Cheaper than custom/specials.

To prevent drilling holes too deep, wrap a piece of insulating tape around the drill bit at the depth you want the hole to be. Stop drilling when the tape touches the wood.

Even if it can be done, the cost of new output trannies plus valves will be many times what the amp is worth. Best to put the money towards something more suitable for your needs.

He uses lots of them. I know. I use PJB cabs. You need several. Re. the original question, that Yamaha system will not, repeat not, be adequate for a rock covers band. It's a small (and probably good quality - Yamaha kit usually is) PA for moderate volume use on vocals and acoustic instruments. Would suit a folk band, wine bar jazz combo or similar, but that's it. Save your pennies for something more powerful/appropriate.

Perhaps they should try this:

He must be John Shuttleworth's dad.

Man in a Shed? Fork in the Road?

Has to be Travis Bean or Kramer.

This looks good - http://www.precision-devices.com/Product-Details/PD154. If you're prepared to spend Faital money, has to be worth a look. I'm a bit surprised Precision Devices drivers aren't more widely used as instrument speakers. They appear to be known mainly in the PA world. Very high quality and made in Yorkshire.

Got to be worth a try. If you like the bass, it will only cost a few pounds to buy a rest and try it. My fretless is a Yamaha BB - PJ configuration. I find it similar to play to my Fender fretted PJ and Jazz in terms of hand position. However, I tend to play just above the P pickup - towards the neck rather than the bridge - so rest my thumb against the edge of the fingerboard.

Sounds as if you may be using too much force. Do you have to use a different hand position on the Yamaha? I'd experiment with varying that. It may be that a thumb rest, positioned to suit, will help.

The only way to find how a combination will work is to try it. The science may enable you to eliminate gross mis-matches, but in the end, your ears must decide.

Strictly speaking, "vacuum tube" is a more accurate term than "valve"...

I second the advice to take your instrument to a good tech'. I wouldn't be tempted to try to do a set-up/loosen the truss rod yourself (you do call your self Bass Beginner). Whilst that sort of thing is not that difficult if you know what you are doing, it's best left to a pro' unless you do. If funds are ere tight, a decent set-up will be cheaper than a new instrument, unless you make a sideways move - i.e stick at the same quality level, which is not really worth the effort. It will also make your instrument more sellable if you do decide to change it. I agree the sound could well be down to pickup height and/or string choice. Flats will generally give a less aggressive tone and if you use D'Addario Chromes (my choice), they are quite bright and lively and last well. Instruments are not really oriented to any particular style. Ibanez basses generally have slim, fast necks, which is why some rock/metal players prefer them. Your amplification has a lot of influence on the tone, too. What are you using?

In the eye of the beholder, etc.

They're (I use two of them) contributing plenty. The Berg on its own doesn't have the air or midrange clarity they do. I don't like tweeters for bass - play flats and use a slightly higher action because I loathe clanking, fret rattle/buzz and the like. They also have some weight, but the Berg enhances it. It sounds good on its own, but not as good as the combination.