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Everything posted by Dan Dare
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335 case? Or a case for a Dreadnought sized acoustic guitar may do it, although the neck may be too long.
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East make an excellent product, but I felt the J Retro I fitted to my J bass, whilst being super clean and having more of everything than the passive set-up, robbed the instrument of some of its essential character. In the end, I sold it and went back to passive. I'd certainly agree with others above who recommend trying different pickups first before changing the pre'.
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They look in excellent shape and I like the price. I use 4 HK Premium Pro10s as monitors and they work very well.
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MIchael Arnopol Soundworks (MAS) Speaker cabinets
Dan Dare replied to basshead56's topic in Amps and Cabs
Another way to purchase Kappalites? -
CAB recommendations to go with MarkBass Little Mark Tube
Dan Dare replied to BenGoldingBass's topic in Amps and Cabs
Take your head to a well-stocked shop and try it with a few cabs. Don't listen to us. We'll all recommend what we like and there's no guarantee you'll feel the same. -
Markbass CMD121P replacement tweeter recommendations
Dan Dare replied to Rusco's topic in Amps and Cabs
Bill's correct as usual. Just disconnect the tweeter. Once you're used to the lack of ticking and clattering, fret rattle and general nastiness in your sound, you'll be much happier -
My thoughts exactly.
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I like the look of those and don't care what they look like. If a drink goes over and gets sucked into the electronics of my Fohhn powered subs by the fans, replacement cost is about that of a decent second hand car.
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Ernie Bell? Used to know him. Had a fruit and veg' stall on the Holloway Road. Real local character. Didn't realise he was a luthier on the side.
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SOLD. Ashdown Classic 408 bass cab. £175. Silly money.
Dan Dare replied to itsmedunc's topic in Amps and Cabs For Sale
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Seconded, m'lud. Restrained, classy and rather British
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The headphone out will most likely be stereo and at more than line level, so you could use it but be cautious. You'll need to mono the signal (use a stereo to mono lead) and either use some kind of attenuator - a passive DI box with variable resistors on board ought to do it, for example - or run the output from the headphone socket into the active input of the higher powered amp if it has one. Start with the volume at minimum on the amp you're feeding and increase with caution.
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Musician wins ruling over hearing loss.
Dan Dare replied to musicbassman's topic in General Discussion
Good points, but classical musicians appear woefully ignorant of any threat to their hearing compared to those of us who play electric instruments. There seems to be a commonly held perception that unamplified instruments are not capable of causing damage. -
Yes, I have tried one. I have owned/still own a fair amount of PJB kit. The Double 4 can be deceiving, because you can place it close to you, even at ear level due to its small size and hear yourself quite well. However, it has very limited projection at any distance. It just doesn't move enough air. I used to have a Flightcase and that didn't do the job in anything other than very quiet, smallish rooms, so a Double 4 certainly won't. As Hiram says above, you need at least a Suitcase in any real-world situation (I use my 4B - essentially a Suitcase minus amplification - with a head for smaller jobs).
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Good call.
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In response to the original question, Rumbles are good for the money. If you have deep pockets, look at AER.
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I disagree. I have 2 PJB C4s, plus a 4B, which I use with an AG700 (the number depends on the size of the job). A single C4 struggles to keep up with anything but the gentlest drummer and won't project far into the room, so a Double Four simply won't cut it.
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"...the worst scam he had seen in the past 20 years"
Dan Dare replied to EliasMooseblaster's topic in General Discussion
So true. There's nothing new under the sun and one born every minute. When I was young and the top of my head didn't get sunburnt, several bands I was in were approached by people promising the earth, in exchange for our hard-earned up front, which would pay for all the hard work they were going to do for us, the demo record (I'm that old) they were going to produce/promote, etc, etc. I'm afraid that if people are taken in by this nonsense, they only have themselves to blame. -
Won't cope with a drummist, even a well-behaved one.
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You'd have to empty it about 500 times, though...
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I have 2 PJB C4s (the same drivers/cab as the combo above, minus the amp). They definitely would not suffice in a rock band (I drive them properly - AG700). They have clarity and tone in spades, but just not enough h*ft. You need to use a lot of those small PJB drivers to generate that.
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One what?
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+1. It can be difficult to say no to a friend. I will lend anything I'm not bothered about (such as a practice amp, which the OP refers to), but the borrower has to collect and return it to me and make good any damage.
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A little nervousness can be helpful, imho - keeps you on your toes, stops you becoming blasé. It can be disabling in extremes (see Stew's post above), but a little is a good thing.
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Fret Buzz on one of five strings - SOLVED
Dan Dare replied to Count Bassy's topic in General Discussion
You will have to experiment a little to find whether the issue is caused by neck relief, fret height, action, etc. You could have a high fret or two (I have just addressed this issue on one of my basses). To find out if that's the case, you need to remove the strings, set the neck straight - take out any curvature with the truss rod - and check them with a straight edge. It is true that a low string tends to flap a bit more than others and the fact that we often play a bit harder on thicker strings adds to the issue.