Dan Dare

[quote name='bassman7755' timestamp='1505032970' post='3368908'] I played for years on the 50hz setting which I had set by mistake thinking it was the 30hz setting. When I switched it to 30 I didnt notice much difference. But yeah Id not advise bypassing the HPF on one of these amps with any speaker you care about as they are capably of pumping out brutal amounts of near-DC current. [/quote] A definite yes to this. In practice, you don't lose anything subjectively by using the HPF, especially at 30hz. It will also give you more headroom, by saving the power amp from working so hard.

[quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1505204435' post='3370121'] Ah, on rereading the OP, I see you just want to run the pre amp into a more powerful power amp. I'd get the TH500. They come up in the classifieds and would do the job in a better way than messing around cabling up 2 boxes. Also, for a big jump in power, have a look at the AG700. [/quote] AG700 is a big jump in price, too. Nice, mind (I have one) and I suspect the OP wouldn't need his TH if he got one as the preamps will be similar, coming from the same stable. As the AG700 is relatively new, you see few turning up used as yet. I agree with chris that a used TH500 is probably the best option. If the 350 is in good shape, it ought to find plenty of potential buyers.

[quote name='ambient' timestamp='1505158783' post='3369931'] I have to agree with this. At uni people played my instrument, I played theirs, I sounded like me, they sounded like them. [/quote] + 100 and why it's a waste of money and time searching for that elusive holy grail. I appreciate that you need instruments/equipment of decent quality, but once you get above that, it's all in your hands/brain. The quest is fun, albeit expensive, though.

[quote name='bobbytodd' timestamp='1505040405' post='3369015'] hand it back.you never know if its a test of honesty. [/quote] This. And if you're told it's a bonus/tip, smile and say thank you. Either way, you win as your reputation benefits.

As someone who spent a number of years with no means of support other than playing music, I found being 'pro' (for want of a better term) a mixed bag. You eat a lot of baked beans, worry about whether you'll be able to pay the bills and have to say "yes" to all manner of dodgy offers - being invited to play in a toilet to a bunch of animals who can't stand the sight of you, etc. Rough with the smooth and all that. It was actually a relief when I finally saw sense and went back to having a "proper job" and turned the music back into a hobby that earns me a bit of extra on occasion. Now I'm retired and have a part-time job and can do more gigs, I suppose I'm "semi-pro"... In my experience, being "pro" means being adaptable, presentable and punctual, having equipment/instruments that work and above all, being able to get along and work with others - in other words, all the qualities that one needs in any job.

[quote name='la bam' timestamp='1504711721' post='3366827'] Yes, I used to dj for 10 years and the difference between using different amps (with all other play out being the same) was incredible. From thin sounding cheaper end, through to high end amps were i was hearing things in the songs I'd never heard before. The amps had their own voicing just as bass amps do. [/quote] Yep. You really do get what you pay for. There's a reason Lab Gruppens and similar cost what they do.

[quote name='dood' timestamp='1504710109' post='3366813'] Ha ha ha ha There seemed to be some confusion over heft before. I hoped this more generic term would be a better description lol! [/quote] That's why I opted for "poke"...

Tricky, As you say, the combined impedance will be around 2.7 ohms, which is a bit low. A single 15 won't be powerful enough on its own if you're used to and need the impact of an Ampeg fridge and it's pointless getting another 110, because combining it with the other 110 won't be enough either. If your cabs had multiple drivers, you could alter the wiring to put them in series and increase the impedance, but they don't. I can't see an alternative to selling both and looking for something more suitable. Did you buy them used? If so, you may be able to move them on without losing much.

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' timestamp='1504712448' post='3366832'] Watch this, particularly from the 1:00 marker to the 5:10 marker, although almost every member here would benefit from watching all of it: [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYTlN6wjcvQ[/media] [/quote] I enjoyed that film you posted, Bill. The first 5 minutes that you recommended are a perfect example of confirmation bias in action. None of us is immune from it.

I had a similar issue. Provided you have sufficient space in the rack case (you'll need a bit of extra height), you can use a rack shelf. Farnell, RS and many other suppliers sell them. You can bolt the item to the shelf (use the holes for the feet - measure their spacing and drill the shelf appropriately). Worked for me. I also use a shelf to support heavier rack mounted items, such as power amps, so the weight isn't all taken by the front fascia.

[quote name='Happy Jack' timestamp='1504709633' post='3366804'] Dan, that's exactly what I'm recommending with the MB200 ... [/quote] You're right. That'll teach me to read all the preceding posts...

[quote name='EBS_freak' timestamp='1504541523' post='3365565'] Hotcovers every time. Thicker, more robust, perfect fit with every order that I've had... and amazingly quick turn around. Roqsolid for me, are more like a thinnly padded amplifier slip... conversely, hot covers are the fully padded version. [/quote] This. Although I've had Roqsolids that I was perfectly happy with, I've found that Hot Covers products are better padded and sturdier. You pay a little more, but they are better.

Bill and Alex make a living out if this and know what they're talking about, so we should defer to their knowledge. For what it's worth, I've played through front and rear ported cabs that I liked and front and rear ported cabs I didn't like. So quality must be due to the design/construction, rather than the type of cab. Imho, of course.

[quote name='la bam' timestamp='1504687291' post='3366512'] I'm always confused with people using power amps. Each amp is completely different in quality and sound. There's a world of difference between the pro sound and qsc, so it must affect the sound? Isn't part of the (bass) amps quality and sound the actually power amp it uses? [/quote] The main difference between the brands like ProSound (and similar low power budget amps aimed at the DJ market) and QSC is that QSC and other better quality amps will have stiffer power supplies and be a lot pokier. The actual "sound" is created in the preamp/eq section.

Why not pick up a used Class D bass head and use it as a power amp. You can connect it to your main head or preamp via the FX ins/outs, bypassing the input section. I did this with a Bugera Veyron head, driving it from my Aguilar and it worked fine.

Geek corner - varying densities and thicknesses of foam make quite a difference to the sound and the extent of damping. It's fun to experiment.

[quote name='ambient' timestamp='1504697480' post='3366635'] Don't really see what you can do. You won the auction, but it's still his property. You can't exactly go round and remove it, eBay can't force him to sell it either. He should have put a reserve price on it, but I think you have to pay to do that. [/quote] This, I'm afraid. It's still his property and he is free to decide to keep it. You can, after all, cancel if you have bought something on eBay and you change your mind. Despite what eBay says about your entering into a legally binding contract to buy or sell, it isn't enforceable.

Goodbye Walter and thanks.

[quote name='tonyquipment' timestamp='1504352319' post='3364301'] EQ. [/quote] Trouble is, unless you have something 1/3 octave parametric with variable q (which no domestic hi fi has), you will boost or cut a lot of stuff you don't want to boost or cut.

Agree with Dood re DT770s. I'm a user/fan, too. A decent set of closed back cans is the only economical way to get accurate, extended bass reproduction from the average home hi-fi system. Not annoying the neighbours - low frequencies travel through building structures a treat - is an added bonus.

Another vote for Maplins alu cases. Cheap and sturdy.

[quote name='Blink' timestamp='1504010692' post='3362088'] I used to be in the MU but it became very expensive for the number of gigs I play. I insure my gear with Musicguard and you get free public liability insurance. This cover is for you as an individual but it can be extended to cover others in the band. [/quote] The top rate of MU sub's is only around a fiver a week, as far as I'm aware. If you're earning the kind of money that puts you in the higher rate, it's peanuts.

[quote name='fftc' timestamp='1504077225' post='3362453'] Just looked at MU membership. Seems a bit expensive for a hobbyist. [/quote] ? The basic rate of MU sub's works out at around a quid a week. Try getting decent PL insurance for that.

[quote name='prowla' timestamp='1503770479' post='3360840'] I was expecting a duplicate of the link to the bass made out of a packing case... [/quote] Yes. Stop being serious in this section, please.

Good news. It was taken down but has since been relisted - [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BOGDON-BOX-BASS-FAULTY-/112540178873?"]http://www.ebay.co.u...-/112540178873?[/url]