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Dan Dare
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Everything posted by Dan Dare
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Good idea. The other option is a kid's bicycle box. Your local Halfords will happily give you one (mine does, at any rate). I've used them for shipping guitars before. -
Not if you want the classic J bass sound. I had a J Retro in my Jazz. Made it a little more versatile, but I couldn't quite get that J sound any longer. Made it sound like a generic active bass, so I removed and sold it. Of those listed by the OP, the Axesrus one looks the best option. It's the cheapest and uses the same parts as the original spec'. £100 is having a laugh for three CTS pots, a cap, socket, plate and a few inches of wire.
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The mangled Inglish these scammers use is hilarious.
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Thanks. Can I tempt you? -
The 12" BF cabs have very extended low end compared to pretty well everything on the market. You need to dial it back quite a bit in my experience.
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Owned from new. In unmarked condition and zero fret wear (I use flats). 34" scale, single G&L MFD p/u. Lives up to its name, weight-wise, at 10lb 4oz or 4.7kg (I find it fine on a 4" strap). Passive, but very powerful instrument (has more poke than my active basses). I use it de-tuned a semitone for just a few numbers per gig, as our singer has a penchant for Eb. Have bought a Spector multi-scale to cover that job, so this is now surplus to requirements. You're welcome to PM me (sensible) offers. Would prefer collection (I'm between Basingstoke and Winchester in Hants), but will post at cost. I estimate that will be around £25. Photos below. Any questions, ask away.-
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Bought new a couple of years ago because I fancied a 5 string. Since then it has spent most of its time in a gig bag in the cupboard. In unmarked condition (it has done one gig and had light home use) and zero fret wear. 34" scale, Bartolini mk 1 p/us and pre', Hipshot bridge and tuners. Weighs 8lb 4oz/3.8kg. A nice instrument, but I never use it and find a 4 string more than adequate for what I do. These are around £800 new, so half that seems a fair price. Wearing little used EB Cobalt Flats, which are around £60 a set. You're welcome to PM me (sensible) offers. Would prefer collection (I'm between Basingstoke and Winchester in Hants), but will post at cost. I estimate that will be around £25. Photos below. Any questions, ask away.
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Thanks Bill. My bad. Should have read more carefully. I'd still high pass subs. I do mine (there will be some LF content below that in them due to the filter slope) to avoid the other issues (I like the dump truck analogy) I mentioned. And I only use one in the vast majority of cases.
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Bill's advice is, as usual, excellent, in particular, his recommendation to high pass subs no lower than 80Hz. Most people try to push far too much low frequency energy into a room, with horrible results - one note, booming bass, no definition and masking of higher frequencies. They generally crank the system up in an attempt to overcome this, resulting in more of a sonic mess. Two subs is overkill in most pub venues. I only ever need to use one and frequently roll that off in volume by 3db or more.
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This. I appreciate not everyone can afford the gear they really want, but buying the best possible within ones budget is always a smart move. You will enjoy using it more and you will recoup more of your original outlay when the time comes to move it on/upgrade. In the OP's position, I'd be looking for another Eden EX112 to go with the one he has already. They aren't a bad cab by any means and can be had used for a couple of hundred. Two of them would be a lot better than a hacked about old Ashdown.
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Ah. Right.
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Good luck
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Shan't be watching (no telly). The music (so-called) was sh1te, too.
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Pretty well anything by Henrik Linder.
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JJ started out on upright, so his right hand technique was adapted from that.
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Taking a new string up to pitch, down and back up several times helps age it by partially fatiguing the metal. Do it gently, though, or it may break.
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There's no law that says you have to play carbon copies of songs. Leave out solos or simplify them. Maybe recruit some keys?
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Where do you stand in a five piece band
Dan Dare replied to BassAdder60's topic in General Discussion
Stage left for me, assuming the drummer is right handed. Makes it easier to maintain eye contact with him - drummers tend to face a little towards the snare/hat. Visually, it doesn't matter. The rhythm section is behind the vocalist, guitar and keys players -
I had the same issue - dead spot at the 5th/6th fret on the G - on a P bass. I found the problem was a high fret above the octave. I think it was the 14th. The string was just touching it. It wasn't sufficient to cause a buzz, but it did deaden and prevent it sustaining. So the high fret needn't be the one where the dead spot is. The relief of the neck may mean the string is making contact with a fret away from the troublesome note.
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Did music lessons at school help with your musical life?
Dan Dare replied to Nail Soup's topic in General Discussion
Were you interested in or enthusiastic about what he was trying to teach? Most teachers are more than happy to help anyone who's keen but finding it difficult. It's easy to blame teachers. -
I'd ask the engineer which he prefers. He may well want a pre-eq signal, so he can set it up for the PA.
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They go for little to nothing. A pal has a couple that he's advertised at silly prices with no interest. He even tried "free if you take it away" with no luck. They're great, but you can get 95% of the sound from something that fits in your pocket.
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How do you deal with performance nerves/imposter syndrome
Dan Dare replied to SamIAm's topic in General Discussion
The best way to deal with those kinds of nerves is to remember you are not the focus of attention. It would be different if you were a soloist, but you are very much in a supporting role and most people will hardly notice what you do. And as others say, you won't be the worst bassist in the building. -
One good quality powered sub will be better than two not-so-good ones. You need clarity and not that horrible one note bass boom you get from cheap subs. You don't need stereo low end. It's pointless to have it as lower frequencies are not directional. You can also end up with oddities due to room acoustics if you place two subs apart from each other. Placement of a sub is important, so worth experimenting. You should be able to send a line level signal from your Midas to an active sub (or subs).
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The EBS is not heavy in comparison with other old school amps. My old TE probably weighed double what it does. I had a 350 and liked it. It was 2 ohm capable, so when I replaced it, I went with an Aguilar AG700 (which will also run into 2 ohms). I'm happy with the Aguilar, but that's just me. You should really take your EBS to a shop or two and compare it with other amps. You're obviously very happy with it apart from the weight, so don't get rid of it without doing some homework. Perhaps one of those lightweight rack cases (SKB, Gator, etc) might be helpful if you have it in a full-fat flight-case. Would be a lot cheaper than a new amp.
