Dan Dare

Jack's in Manchester very helpful, as anzoid recommends. Good work and fair prices.

Nice. I was tempted by that head. I have a B1000 and had ideas of selling it and getting the big beast. Decided in the end it would be overkill for my purposes. Enjoy the new toy.

I appreciate what people are saying here, but buying and selling at a profit is the way the world works. If nobody makes a profit, nobody makes a living. Caveat vendor (the flip of the saying "caveat emptor" - buyer beware) applies. Do your homework regarding value, etc, when selling something. Sometimes, life dictates that we need money and have to take what we are offered, even if we know it's not ideal. As someone points out, forums are not utopias. There are members on here who are dealers - no names, no pack drill, but you'll see their names continually in the Marketplace section (if you want to be certain, have a look at their profile - their highest numbers of posts will be in items for sale). If one of them wants to buy from you, chances are they are looking to sell on.

[quote name='mcnach' timestamp='1492431546' post='3280154'] Doh! That's a fantastic idea! In fact... my original plan when I bought this cab was "and in the future I get a second LMIII", as they're so small and light that carrying two is not an issue. It doesn't have to be an LMIII if I'm just using the power section, of course, but they're not very expensive and so it serves as backup. How did I forget??? [/quote] The best idea, imho. As you say, you're only using the power amp section, so anything will suffice within reason. I use a Bugera head, which I picked up cheaply used, as a slave amp when I need more juice.

Use enough of them and any decent 2x10 will work with a low B. Use just one and none of them will do it at any great volume. The fundamental frequency of a low B is below the cut off for virtually any 10" driver.

You are certainly not wrong. You appear to have a pro' attitude and you are playing with people who don't. I think this problem comes from the self-taught nature of many players, who learned their stuff in isolation and never played in orchestras/ensembles, where arrangements were important and it was vital to sweat over getting a part right (because if you didn't, it would clash with what others were playing). Consequently, they can't see what all the fuss is about - they reckon if it's close enough, that'll do. In my experience, you won't change people like that. Best to move on and save yourself an ulcer.

[quote name='SpondonBassed' timestamp='1492062932' post='3277513'] True. The perverse thing about second hand goods sales is that the fakes can sometimes command a higher price than an equivalent "unknown" brand just [i]because[/i] they are fakes even though they are known to be dodgy copies by the purchaser and advertised as such. It tends to happen with older goods and antiques. Did you keep your Strad clone? [/quote] I didn't. I gave it to a friend whose kid wanted to learn the fiddle.

[quote name='owen' timestamp='1492029233' post='3277380'] I am playing the St Matthew Passion on Friday. I have not done this kind of stuff for a VERY long time. I will be very tired on Saturday. Cracking bass lines though. He was The Don. [/quote] Amen. A mighty work. Enjoy.

[quote name='scalpy' timestamp='1492019899' post='3277288'] Nope but they've put M badges on their old 318 or Porsche wheels on their vintage bug. The car market is even more guilty of this than the music instrument industry! [/quote] Not just cars. Everything gets cloned these days - £50 Chinese snide "Rolex" anyone? Nothing new in music, either. My first fiddle, a European factory cheapo, had a fake Strad label in it.

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' timestamp='1491479621' post='3273355'] That's far less of a problem than the size of the cone relative to the wavelength being reproduced. As frequency goes up dispersion shrinks. To account for that the size of the cone must shrink as well. This shows how it works: http://www.acoustics.salford.ac.uk/feschools/waves/flash/diffractionslider.swf Axial high frequency limits are meaningless. What matters is 30 and 45 degrees off-axis. Dispersion, not response, is why midranges are smaller than woofers, and tweeters are smaller than midranges. [/quote] Cheers Bill. Interesting. I'd assumed it was just the physical limitations of a large heavy cardboard or plastic cone that limited high frequencies.

Seems I'm alone in not enjoying playing in trios. No matter how accomplished/inventive the players, the limited tonal palette limits the ability to create arrangements and harmonic texture too much for my taste.

My bitsa P bass has a Dinky Toys decal on the headstock. Much more fun.

I like the sound of band 2. People who rehearse regularly usually want to get it right. I've had my fill of seat of the pants chancers who resist any hint of an arrangement because it "stifles their creativity". More likely, they don't want to buckle down and get things right, in my experience. No drugs a good sign for me. Despite the myth to the contrary, stoners are not good band mates. They are generally unreliable (especially if there is heavy lifting to be done, funnily enough) and the grief they cause is not worth the odd flash of alleged genius.

If a shop offers you little or nothing, it's a sign they don't really want what you're selling. They're in business to make a living. If they don't think they can move it on something (and quickly - no point in having things sitting on shelves for months), they won't want it unless it's so ridiculously cheap that they can move it on for peanuts. With the low price of new kit these days, used, especially older equipment is worth very little. Just the way life is.

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' timestamp='1491322118' post='3272114'] It's a property of the driver. Some 15s do go higher, but only on-axis. Any fifteen is going to start beaming around 1.5kHz. [/quote] Mr Bill, he correct. Large cones simply cannot move swiftly or accurately enough to produce high frequencies. Without a tweeter, few if any 15" cabs are going to produce appreciable output over 1.5kHz. Even the smaller (typically around 6") bass drivers in your hi-fi need tweeters to cover anything much over 3kHz (try covering your hi fi tweeters and listening to your speakers and you'll see what I mean).

[quote name='ubit' timestamp='1491466554' post='3273190'] I have one and can say, it's a lovely bass. You can change the sound quite a lot, so to say it's clancky, is misleading. It feels great, the neck is lovely and it just looks gorgeous! [/quote] Read my post again. I wouldn't disagree about the fact that they are a fine, nice looking instrument. I said I thought rounds made the couple I've played sound clangy (as they do to any bass, imho). It was my opinion, but not "misleading". I'm someone who turns his tweeter off and likes flats. Just the way I am. I have quite extended high frequency hearing - can still hear bats - so maybe just my quirk.

FM still does bass. DAB loses a lot of the bottom octave due to lousy bandwidth.

Another vote for K&M. A little dearer at the outset, but cheaper in the long run. Spares mean they just keep going, which is a bonus. I have a much abused K&M that's around 40 years old (like the broom with 3 new heads and 2 new handles) that refuses to die.

The effect of different timbers on the tone of a solid electric guitar/bass is negligible (imho, of course... ). If you like the look of it (they are a nice looking bass), you need to play a few and see if it suits. Our opinions are of little use, really as we're probably not looking for what you are. The couple I've tried were strung with rounds, which made them sound pretty clangy, which I don't like. I reckon Chromes (my favourite strings for a J bass) would suit it very well - versatile with plenty of snap if needed.

If it's a heavy amp, remember to support it at the rear as well as bolting it in by the front panel. You can get rack shelves which you can attach to the rear bolt holes on a rack case which will do the trick. Something like this - http://www.dv247.com/studio-equipment/music-store-19-2u-rack-shelf--218560?gclid=CJ-_muaEidMCFUQ8Gwodc40MeQ. Obviously, you need to ensure it doesn't cover any ventilation holes.

I'd stick with putting the instrument in its case. They look very fine on stands until some klutz knocks them over and breaks off the headstock...

Jet Black ain't a bad band name...

Another vote for Smooth Hound and Chris is great to deal with.