Dan Dare

I have a dining chair that does the same thing.

You could if you used them to drive a couple of power amps.

Excatly. Room acoustics, reflections, resonant frequencies and cancellations and so on will all vary considerably depending on how many bodies are present to soak up the vibrations, atmospheric conditions, temperature, etc, etc. It's enough to make your head hurt, Brian.

A quoted number of watts is pretty meaningless without a definition of how the measurement was obtained, for example, 500 watts into 8 ohms (a purely resistive load is typically used for measurement) @ 1 khz over X milliseconds. Most companies measure burst/transient power - what an amplifier will produce on short peaks. That will give an inflated impression of what an amplifier is actually capable of, which is why marketing departments like it.. Continuous power delivery over a wide range of frequencies into a reactive load (such as a loudspeaker) is a completely different ball game. It's difficult because there are no quick and easy ways to give (or gain) an impression of how much power an amplifier produces and watts have become the shorthand, if you like. The only way to make an informed decision is to try something in the so-called real world, which isn't always possible.

Designacable are good. However, all they do is use good quality components, as did OBBM. You can save money by using the same components - Neutrik/Switchcraft connectors and Van Damme or similar cable. Speakon cables don't even need to be soldered. Just strip the cables and screw them together. There's even a diagram on the Speakon packet to show you how.

Don't know why this posted twice...

I like to screw/glue boards together and, when the glue is dry, remove the screws, drill out the holes and dowel them. It saves destroying router bits and tools when you radius the edges. It also means you can sand the surface really flat and smooth for paint or tolex.

Good advice. The second point is particularly true. It's even more noticeable on a P/J in my experience, where the P pickup has much higher output. I always have to set the bridge pickup quite a bit closer to the strings to equalise the volume.

Neat. If you stick a sink plunger and food mixer whisk to the front of the hop-up, you can have hours of fun shouting "Exterminate" at gigs 😊

You can get D'Addario Chromes in short scale, too. They feel a little more supple under the fingers than Fender flats to me.

Call me cynical, but I reckon there'll be no difference between one of those and a standard good quality (Switchcraft, Neutrik, etc) jack save the price.

Agreed, but do compare/research prices. There is generally much good stuff on offer in BC classifieds, but some pricing is a little optimistic. You have no guarantee when buying used, so inspect thoroughly and be prepared to haggle and even walk away. As a general rule of thumb and barring the rare/exotic/unusual, the going price for used, current equipment in good condition is around half new retail. It may rise to around two thirds for something exceptional - bought new a month ago and never used, etc.

If you can afford the 100w Rumble, I'd get one. It's still light and compact and will make the transition from practice to gigging amp (within sensible limits, obvs). You will find it easier than a purely practice amp to sell if the time comes to upgrade. Speaking of which, used would be a good option to get more for less. There was a nice one in the Marketplace (not belonging to me or anyone I know) recently.

See the other thread about this cab. In common with any compact speaker cab, sensitivity is low. The same applies to small monitor speakers. It's the price you pay for getting a quart from a pint pot. The C2 is essentially a Bass Cub without the onboard amplification. I'd say it might not suffice if said lounge is of any large size. 25 watts of (even acoustic) guitar cab be quite loud. A C4 would certainly do it, imo.

I wouldn't be surprised if D'Addario made them for Hartke. They make strings for a number of companies, including Fender. I like and use D'Addario. Their Chromes and Ernie Ball Cobalts are my favourites. They last well and feel nice under the fingers.

This. Shops are businesses. Margins are tight these days and their electricity bills, staff costs, etc don't pay themselves. If you want the convenience - instant cash, no dealing with tyre-kickers/hagglers, etc - of selling an instrument to a shop, you have to accept what they offer (bearing in mind that they have to clean it, offer some kind of guarantee, set it up/replace strings and so on). You will usually get a better price if you trade in, but even then, it won't be market value (whatever that is), because that's what the shop will expect to get for it when they sell it. If you want a better price, you are free to decline what they offer (which they are unlikely to be unhappy about - they prefer to sell their new stock) and make the effort and sell it privately.

The hot water does the same as solvents - dissolves the grease. dead skin and detritus that has been deposited on them by your hands. Part of the brighter sound that results from taking them off and boiling them is the fact that the strings have had the tension taken out of them and been re-tensioned. I prefer solvent (meths in my case), because it will also remove the gunk and cleaning them in situ won't stress the strings. Slackening and tightening often them can fatigue the metal and cause breakages.

D'Addario. Fender do, as well, because they are made by D'Addario.

Methylated spirit does the job for me.

Your choice. Both are reliable products and 15 bucks is hardly a deal breaker.

Spot on. It's a waste of time trying to reproduce the fundamental, especially at any volume.

I'm on a bluegrass binge at the moment. Check out this smoker:

So did I and I still do.

Some good stuff on Lee's YT channel. Worth subscribing.

It's unlikely to be cheap, wherever you go. The parts may cost little, but (and this tends to apply especially to budget gear) replacing them can be a nightmare, even a non-starter, depending on how the amp module is constructed. If it's a discreet unit (some are even sealed), repair may not be possible. You may, as someone else points out, need an entire replacement PCB or module. Not trying to be discouraging, but it can happen.