Dan Dare

I have Cobalts on my 5, which I like a lot (I like them so much, I've switched to them on my 4). Don't know whether the B is tapered, but it isn't like a barge rope, so it's nice to play and fits the nut slot properly. Not the cheapest, but last well and a little brighter (but not harsh/spiky) than many flats.

Hilarious, all this "owned by somebody famous" tripe. It's a mass produced instrument and it's worth the same as any other of the same make/model. Unless the thought of a celeb's skin flakes, bogies and dried on sweat floats your boat, of course...

It could be cheaper to buy a new one. Many companies offer vintage-style pickups that will duplicate the sound of originals.

I have both Roqsolid and Hotcovers. Hotcovers are better made and padded, but Roqsolid do the job. If you sling your kit around/treat it roughly, I'd suggest Hotcovers.

This. All you can really do is get the octave/12th fret and harmonic in tune, adjusting the bridge saddles as shown in the video above. If your action is particularly high, that will tend to cause the strings to fret sharp. Address that via the saddles and/or truss rod. Even then, it can be difficult to get the bottom E (or B on a 5) to be in tune at the 12th. I'm assuming your tuner is set at concert pitch. Many (such as my Korg) have adjustment of 10 cents or so either side of concert.

If you want to fit a cased bass across the width of the vehicle, you're going to need a saloon, hatchback or estate and it will have to be wide - at least Mondeo size (such as your XF). I run a Toyota Camry, into which it fits into quite easily. Many SUVs, such as the Rav4, may have the width, but they have a wheel at each corner, so the arches protrude into the boot and leave insufficient space.

Rumour has it that a certain person, who may or may not have offered instruments for sale with logos written in Sharpie on the peghead and wonky tuning keys, has been known to suggest that his creations may be suitable for those with "big hands" (more space between the tuning keys, etc).

Probably about the smallest practical option that will actually work.

You don't have 'big hands' then...

Rather than taking a punt on a used all valve head, why not look at a few valve pre's? Run one into the Orange (which you know does the job as far as power goes) and it will be lighter and less expensive to run (no replacing of main power valves needed).

If you're spending that kind of money, you must try them. What we like may not suit you.

Given that there are dozens of cars with boots which will take a bass and 1x12 cab like yours, would we be correct to assume that you're looking for the smallest option? If the bass is in a full flight case, that limits things somewhat. A soft case/gigbag is more compact. How much do you want to spend?

I find a lighter E string sounds clearer. It might be counter-intuitive, but most would agree that the upper/thinner strings have better definition. Try it. It works for me.

D'Addario Chromes work well on a Jazz, in my experience.

I like the Gotoh 203B-4. Not too heavy, nicely made and not expensive.

Many string manufacturers put a coating on their products to prevent them from corroding in the pack. The D'Addarios and Cobalts I use are the same. It makes them feel sticky to the touch when new. Just wipe them down with a drop of meths or similar on a cloth before fitting them and that will solve the problem.

To an extent, you have to be to get up and front a band, especially performing stuff you've written yourself. Plenty of people who have become very famous are more than just a "bit of a narcissist". It can be an asset, as well as making them a little difficult to get along with. Being able to work with them depends on whether they have sufficient self-awareness and social skills to know when to give it free reign and when to tone it down.

Which mod would you like removed?

Just PM'd you.

True, but you can ameliorate it to a degree, which is better than nothing. Moving speaker cabs can certainly be helpful, as you suggest. If you're playing in a venue with acoustic issues, you're stuck with it. You have to try to do something, even if it won't be a perfect solution.

You can apply much the same to virtually any amplified music. We have to adapt to suit the acoustics of whatever space we are playing in. That's why having "my sound" isn't a good idea. If you're running everything through PA, the engineer can adjust the eq for room acoustics. However, if you're running off backline with a vocal only PA (which is the norm in many smaller venues), you need to check the sound in the room (use a long lead or wireless) and adjust your rig accordingly. I do this and if the resultant sound on stage is not ideal or what I'd prefer, I live with it.

No. I run PJB cabs, but I find their amps a bit too hi-fi, so I use an Aguilar head. The additional warmth helps fattens the sound. It's still clean, but has a little more character. It may not be strictly accurate, but I prefer it.

I'd trust your Scottish instincts. If the tension difference is noticeable (and bothers you - if not, why worry?), maybe raise the action a smidge.

Don't be ridiculous. Most of us are well past the first flush of youth. Many are even OAPs like me. For me, there's not a lot to do or say apart from feel sad about the news. We don't feel the need to rush into print. Respond how you wish and leave others to do the same.

Another vote for Eneloop. Which rated them highly, too.