PinkMohawk

No trouble at all mate. I'm Derby based, so probably a bit further than ideal, but if you'd much rather them soldered, you'd be welcome to drive down and I could sort it for you. Anyway, yeah, spade connectors are all over the place, and you don't need a specific tool to do the actual crimping, just a pair of pliers to give them a good squeeze.

I back the Harley Bentons, I use one of the old ISO-1 PRO models, when they were blue not grey, and it's been rock solid for me. No noise issues (and I run a lot of gain so I'd notice them immediately), plenty of power, and a good price.

Dual lock all day every day. A little goes a long way, and a lot requires tools to take off, so yeah.

You're correct in what you'd need to do, though there may be a way to save yourself some money on having someone else do the soldering. Having a quick google, it looks like the three contacts on the Powercon socket will comfortably take crimped on spade connectors instead, so there wouldn't be a need to solder them. Something worth considering, since if the pedalboard is properly put together, your power supply shouldn't be putting any strain on the spade connectors, so no risk of them coming lose, especially if you give the spades a little crimp when they're on the sockets contacts. Other than that, yes, you've got it right, IEC to socket, Powercon lead to mains. And yes, those are the right ones that will let you connect and disconnect while live safely.

If you mod it to let more bass through, you're going to lose a lot of the character that makes a DS1 sound like a DS1. I used to run two signals, one to a guitar head and the other to a bass head, with the DS1 set to be as gritty and nasty as possible. Your best bet for a tone that keeps that character is using an LS2 or something similar to blend a clean signal with it.

Seems to me that the most important part of this system would be mounting it to the studs in the wall. Long as that's done properly, can't see how there'd be a problem with the system.

Pretty minimal, I'd imagine. White would be my preference, but if grey was all you had, it'd just uniformly darken the colour just a touch.

In that case, yeah, you'd need to strip it back then paint it with the solid colour. You'd need to do a solid primer colour beneath it too, make sure it comes out even as well, otherwise a light colour like this will more than likely still show the colour difference through it.

If you want to keep that kind of colour, I'd sand it back and go for a solid colour instead. Personal preference would be a dark black stain, but that's just me.

Nabbed a set of J pickups off of him, nice and easy to deal with, no messing around waiting for shipping, proper stand up bloke. Happy to deal with him again.

Does anyone happen to know off the top of their head, if it's possible to swap the buttons from the M4/ BM light tuning keys for the M6 large buttons? Alternatively, if it's possible to use Sperzel buttons in their place as well.

I use that stuff, it's not too bad to deal with as long as you don't use too much of it. I also use a couple of flathead screwdrivers to help pry pedals off, makes it pretty quick.

I'm running the Hotone Cybery, I'm really liking it so far, it's dead quiet, and that's with me running a heavily distorted stereo rig too. Also allows for midi control, and you can edit your presets via a phone app.

I recently rebuilt my board, and I went with the Vitoos Iso 4 Plus, and it's been rock solid so far, loads of current on tap, 8 outputs, very small and low profile, and dirt cheap as well. I don't like the idea of rechargeable supplies, too easy to forget that you didn't charge it enough, or just not have enough power on tap to make it through a whole set, etc.

I just drilled new holes when I replaced mine, not worth the hassle of searching really

I sacked off the original wheels when one of mine broke, replaced them with skateboard trucks and wheels instead,so much smoother and easier to work with now.

Don't suppose anyone has any leads on some right angle IEC plugs, preferably low profile? Google hasn't really helped, since I need a male and female, male going to the left, female to the right. Making some leads to connect my guitarists two PP2+ together to minimise how many cables are laying on the floor, and I want it to be small enough that he can get it in and out of the case without having to take it out every time, because that is a sure fire way for it to get left behind at a venue.

Has anyone tried a Boss ODB3 at 18v? I've got one on my board, and my power supply has a spare 18v output, but I'm not sure if it'll blow it up or not, anyone got any insight?

I do something similar, the splitter I use being in the middle of my chains, with separate drives after it on each channel, and it works just fine for me, not had a single issue with it.

Hey guys, I'm searching out a hard case for my Epiphone Ripper bass (one of the recent ones) and I'm having trouble finding anything. I've got a case that might fit, but would require modding and voiding the warranty. Gig bags won't do, my band tours a fair bit and they just don't offer enough protection or stack well in the back of the van.

Just get it all on a board man, easier that way. Plus, it doesn't limit you to only multi's that have a DI out.

Korg Pitchblack+ will do just that mate, my guitarist uses one to switch between wireless/cable in case of emergencies.

I make my own straps out of nylon/poly webbing usually, since I found enough to make a strap for my main when I was working. However, I've since gotten a spare, and my guitarist has asked if I can do him a couple, so I need to actually find some now. What I'm asking is if anyone knows where I can 4 inch wide webbing? Black is ideal, but any supplier will do, since everywhere I've looked only supplies up to 2 inch wide webbing.