dave_bass5

Just read his on TB. This was posted by Tech21. This is news to me. Did anyone else know about this? 'The HPF/LPF is based on the unit set flat. If you adjust the mids above or below the flat setting it changes the set point for the filters. Try not to get bogged down in numbers as it's a waste of time. Just use your ears and set to what "sounds" good. Much of it depends on the final destination of your sound. Amp, direct, powered monitor full PA system etc. Be judicious with EQ as they also change the phase of the signal.'

That covers a lot of members on here then 😂

Put waaaay better than i did. Thanks for that post.

No, not using a comp (then, i am now, and have done over the years no and off). Never needed it in the past. Saying that, i did experiment with comps in the Helix at the time, but never really got on with them. Never use PA support. Tried a MB800, Quiter BB800, settled on a Fender Rumble 800D (which, being the most vintage proves your point). In fact im sticking with that head for now, pairs really well with my CN212.

Let me know when you are playing at the pub in BG again and ill make more of an effort 🙂 The thing is, im not suggesting the cab is rubbish at all, quite the opposite, it sounds amazing. it just didn't work for me with the band, and i really do put that down to how i play and that i prefer a more coloured cab.

No, although i do use a GKMB800. Thats another thing. I thought the tilt back idea was a good one, but as all my gigs rely on me producing the out front sound as well as on stage, pointing the cab at my ears was painful. The F112 is very clear at close quarters. My comments come from me listening at distance though, not close up. Close up everything was nice and punchy. Maybe a bit too clear, but i could hear every note and string noise. Walk out in the room and i felt a lot of that just disappeared/got covered up by the band. I couldnt really boost the top end as it was bright enough at my playing position.

To be fair i found the cab lacking in mids on a solid floor as well. Ill file it with the BB2 in the 'just not my thing' category, and also put it down to my pick playing. Would you ever consider gigging it again (i believe its only had one?)at a gig were you weren't just using it as a stage monitor? Might give you more of an idea of what it can and cant achieve, and how the Fletcher–Munson curve effects it once its out of your basement. I do get that its a home cab only for you though.

Yeah,. sorry if i wasn't clear. The point was i went back with the CN212 in Feb and barely touched the EQ on the amp (which as we know, are fixed freq's). Ive played that venue a few time over the years. Always had a bit of trouble with it, but the F112 was the worst. It was also lacking mid punch so a bit of a nightmare. Not the cabs fault, not really the venues fault, but the two just didn't work. Ive said it before but i found a similar issue at most of the venues i did with the F112. All wooden stages, so i had to get rid of it.

Low end is not just one freq, could have been 93hz for all i know. My point was it really needs a notch filter and not just a HPF. I get what a HPF does, i have one (although didnt have it with me), plus do use one in the Helix when i use it, but cutting all the low end off want the ideal thing to do. Maybe i should have said 'in the low end' rather than a blanket 'low end'.

Not really. There is noting to say the offending freq's are at the bottom of the range. A HPF wont help there. And no, before anyone mentions it, switching to IEMs mid gig is also not an option 😉

Duh, i never thought of that 🙄

Yes, that’s my point. Not until I started gigging it did I find it wasn’t quite as suitable as I had hoped. Not knocking the cab at all but for the clubs we play the low end was more problematic than I had experience with my other cabs.

I was pointing out different cabs work in different ways. As an example, I’ve done two gigs at a club recently. First with the F122 and then with the CN212. Same amp. The gig with the CN212 went much better. I didn’t struggle with low end as much, and the tone out front was a lot more even. I just couldn’t get the F112 to sit properly in the mix and was more or less maxing out the amp. I don’t have the luxury of moving the cab around when Im on a tight knowing your gigs helps make a better choice of gear, and that’s my point. We don’t all gig in ideal situations.

Considering you can lift the BB2 with two fingers I’m not sure what the argument is here? You could use a Bluetooth speaker which would be lighter, and go through the PA if you are only going for lightweight lol.

Ill take your word for that, as I have no idea what a L-Pad does, but this is from a viewer i read (coulda well be the same thing as what you are talking about). On its own, this new woofer has ‘good response’ to about 4kHz, with the 3″ dome in the middle helping out up to 10kHz. The Faital HF driver, meanwhile, can reach down as far as 2kHz, but the knob on the back shifts the crossover point. Thus, knob full off, the HF driver is only adding ‘air’ above 10kHz; turn it up, and the HF driver begins to take a deeper share of upper frequency responsibility, until finally it’s dealing with everything from 2kHz upwards.

Regarding the Horn in the BB2. IIR the dial on the back changes the freq that the signal gets sent to it, so it acts as a variable cross over. So the more you have the horn on the less of the signal gets sent to the main driver. Thats from memory though so could be way off. All the correct info is on the BF website anyway. Its a clever system.

I’m a firm believer that the best way to test a cab or rig is too gig or rehearse with it. With a band playing you get certain freq masked, etc, at higher sound levels you lose certain fez’s (Fletcher Munson curve), how it works on wooden stages, concrete floor, live wooden rooms etc. So much to test in uncontrollable environments to reality get a feel of how a cab will sound for each of us. My recent foray in to the F112 being a case in point. Amazing sounding cab on its own, but very troublesome for me when the band started playing, and those wooden stages at the clubs were a nightmare. That’s just my experience though, but based on hearing it at home I couldn’t imagine a finer cab. Thats not to say a side by side comparison is not helpful though. With the same signal going in to each you can get a clear idea of the differences, and this can be very usefully to evaluate a new cab vs the old one. I have no doubt this cab will work though. Its what you like, only better. Congrats Bas.

Ok, im convinced. I’ll find a narrow bridge and see what I can do with my Squier CVP. I’ve seen a lot of P basses where the strings don’t cross the pole pieces dead centre so not to fussed if they are off a bit I’m useless with wood so won’t attempt to make any other alterations to the bass, although happy to still new holes for the bridge if I have to

This was my worry. While ive put 19mm bridges on my bases that came with 20mm (my Squires IIR), I’d have thought a bass would be designed for the bridge it comes with. I’m sure the screw holes would be ok, but yes, pup alignment and width of neck must surely come in to it. Might not be a huge difference but I’d prefer to go the route with a new bass already being set up for 18mm (or even 17mm). But then my other thought is i doubt manufacturers make different sized pups and necks for a slightly narrower set up, so it’s possible that any bass that does have the narrower spacing is still using off the shelf parts. Obviously i could and probably am wrong. I guess the radius isnt too important, at least 10-12” should be fine. No, it has to be a new bass this time with everything in place.

That’s because you don’t read the manual 😂😌

Will that be ok as far as nut, neck and pup spacing goes? I used to have one on my old Squier JV P, but I remember there was quite a bit of space either side of the E and G string on the outside. As i said above though, i dont have a bass i can do with with so i will still have to buy a new bass.

Normally about 3 numbers before we finish I’m already thinking about the packing down and drive home, and the not getting up until late sunday morning. In fact I tend to spend the last set organising my Sunday in my head. The fingers know what to do so that leaves my head free to do more interesting stuff.

Ah cool. Never played one of those old basses. I’m not too worried about the nut width, I’m guessing a narrow bridge would mean its not going to have a wide nut. Something between 38-40,me is perfect for me.

Cheers. Ill have a look at thre LX4. Not a big deal breaker as far as ther markers go, but i firmly believe a P bass shouldn’t/doesn’t need to be active. As long as it can be defeated though its not an issue. Again, if everything else fits the bill then i can overcome it.

Wow, now that almost ticks all the boxes. Love maple boards, and who doesn’t like a white body. That would be on its way IF it had fret markers/dots. I don’t need them, but ive always hated how Sandberg necks look without them. Thanks anyway.