dave_bass5

Yes, very frustrating. I look on musicians in bands as being in one of two categories. Playing in a band, where you put the effort in, realise you are part of a team and have an obligation to deliver what’s needed. The second is playing at playing in a band. This latter category pretty much includes all my band other than me. Likes the idea of being in a band, likes occasionally rehearsing so they can play extra loud, but on the commitment scale the band is nowhere near the top so will fit in when it suits.

I’m having issues with my guitarist. Joined last Nov as he wants to gig etc. Away with his wife almost 3 weekends out of 4 every month over the past 6 months. Just keeps booking weekends away. Not flexible at all, and yet keeps asking when the gigs are coming in. Ive turned down 7 since June because he isn’t available and it’s really hard to get motivation to try and get gigs knowing I’ll probably have to turn them down. Now I know it’s not the same thing, if we had a gig he would hopefully honour it, and I’m not going to book anything where he says he isn’t free, but he randomly adds these weekends to the Callander and must realise it doesn’t leave us much room to gig.

Sorry, can’t talk about them 😂

Totally agree. If you have a gig booked you are booked and not free to do anything else, within reason.

My Sire bass has the original batteries in it, and I got it when they first came out. I got in to the habit of always unplugging it when not actually playing it, even at gigs. As I use a wireless system it made it a bit easier as the lead would just hang from the strap.

Ok

It only takes one slightly high fret to cause a string to buzz.

Yeah, my 425 sounds a bit more aggressive compared to my P34. Aggression can easily be added but its a bit harder to take out IME. Either works fine for me, and to be honest in the recordings ive got from rehearsal with both i cant tell what bass was used unless im playing the low B-D, but i can appreciate the smoother tone will work much better for some. If i was to sell my P34 id definitely be looking at a 435. Blast, i want to get my 425 out now lol.

Ive always hated the sliver surround that Yamaha used. Although only cosmetic Yamaha were a brand i wouldn't really consider when looking for new basses because of this (although i did have a TRBX which loos great). Now i have one i cant say it bothers me, but i do prefer the more mainstream look of the newer basses.

Same as mine. I would have no hesitation taking just that to a gig. In fact i will at some point. Lovely bass to play, and with a bit more 'edge' than my P34.

We used to do similar for wedding gigs. We used to have print outs of our 100+ song play list and leave them at the front of the stage. Worked well most of the time.

Had a gig a few years ago ni a pub. Guy came up to us mid first set and asked for a Rolling Stones song (cant remember which one). Singer told him we had already played it. Guy said he was out having a fag, so can we do it again? Singer said maybe, in the last set. Guy says he isnt staying till then, can we do it now. Singer says No. Guy shrugs and says that song is s$$$ anyway and walks off. He was still they as we were packing up. Other times we get asked 'are you doing any more songs?' as we are curling leads up and drummer has mostly dismantled his kit.

Just had my first rehearsal with my Stomp. Running it to the front of my BH800 amp (no effects loop). Sounded great, although the studio cab is crap and very boomy. Mainly used the B7k sim, both with and without Distortion I also had 70’s chorus on a few times, along with a phaser, but I need to tweak those as the effect is too strong. So far it’s all been on headphones at home so understandable. What I was surprised at, as were the band, was how well the Octave down worked. Just here and there, but it made a big difference to the overall mix. It was nice having that low D back for the end of songs, without needing a 5 string.

You tell us. We all tolerate different things in different ways.

Well if you have a ruler that is accurate enough then yes, you can. No need to be too specific, its all about how it feels rather absolute numbers. Once you get the E and maybe G in place just adjust to what feels comfortable. I do find one of these cheap string action gauges very useful though. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Durable-String-Action-Measuring-Luthier/dp/B07CNY6HF2/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=string+set+up+tools&qid=1567524751&s=gateway&sr=8-9 After all the years ive been setting up my basses i recently got a set of cheap radius tools and found i have no need for them. Acton is a personal thing but as it happens i was already 95% there so left things alone.

Ideally the height of each string follows the fingerboard radius.

Yeah, its medium low rather than low IMO. I know a few players who play with a lighter touch and can get 2mm or just under.

Ive been having a bit of trouble setting my Yamaha bass up to how i like it. Nothing wrong with it as such, just not comfortable. I read as many set up guides as i could, and i have been setting my own basses up for years. What i found strange was that the more relief i had, and going by most of the guides say more is better for harder playing, the more fret buzz i would get abve the 6th fret. I play with a pick so fret buzz can be a bit more obvious, and although dont dig in to hard i can get a bit heavy handed. Against my better judgment, i was going for .012 - .015 at he 8th fret, while trying to get the action down to 2.25(ish) at the 12th on the E. Most of the guides were saying this is needed if you play herder. In the past ive gone for .008 -.010 like in the Lakland video. In fact that video as been my reference point for years. Now i have the perfect set up for me, and its at the Lakland settings of .008, with just over 2.25mm action. My point of this long winded post, is that i was getting quite a bit of buzz when i was using the higher relief measurements, and although i dont go over the 12th most of the time it was in the upper part of the neck. I can now dig in a bit more and have a relatively low action. So yeah, tighten the truss rod beyond what you have it now and if the frets are fine i think its going to work. You have nothing to lose. I found this PDF to be quite interesting, although as i said, i went against the advice and used a tighter relief. https://www.dropbox.com/s/kos2qqse8q1vdj2/Truss_Rods_Made_Easy.pdf?dl=0

1, the most expensive one i have. Whatever it is at the time of course.

I had a Ashdown 1x15 combo for years, stopped using it about 8 years ago. I ended up giving it to my sons school for free. Dont have space for it and if im never going to use it why bother keeping it.

Quite often, and I dont really sweat that much.

If my 425 didn’t have the bridge that it does I doubt I’d have looked at the P34. Silly as it sounds I just think the bridges on the 200/400 series really cheapen the look.

How would it differ between a BBOT and HM bridge?

Yeah, if it does improve the tone or tension, why not put it on the higher end basses where you would expect this to matter just as much.

Today’s ‘ponder’ is why do the cheaper 5 sting basses have the offset B string saddle, but not on the high end ones? Obviously we can only speculate, but I’d be interested to know what others think. I thought it might be to do with the cheaper quality of bridges on the 400 series, maybe it’s not needed on the high mass bridges, but then why not put them on the 200 series as well.