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dave_bass5

⭐Supporting Member⭐
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Everything posted by dave_bass5

  1. wow. that cab is even smaller than my 1212L but the looks of it.
  2. I cant slap properly so any of those type of bass lines ill avoid. My main problem with leaning bass lines is actually hearing them. In a big complicated mix i sometime shave trouble picking out the bass line, let alone learning it We hardly ever learn new songs though, shame as i need a challenge.
  3. Good Choice Gareth. I think for the money the LMIII is a better bet over the F500, especially if you dont need all the EQ options, and i dont think any of us really do although i did find it came in handy in the more awkward rooms when i had my SA450. I agree with you about the GB's not feeling quite as well made, at least the Streamliner. I felt the knobs didnt have that quality feel and movement like my MB heads have. They felt pretty cheap to me.
  4. [quote name='Prime_BASS' post='1335842' date='Aug 10 2011, 10:40 PM']You should get a S12T! I'm finding 9 o'clock to be enough with the f1. The preamp is clipping a lot later on the gain stage than with RH. However like all heads, it does run out of juice at around 1-2 o'clock on the master.[/quote] Oh my 1212L is loud enough. Sometimes i think i should turn up during gigs abut listening back to the recordings we always make (from the stage) im always a bit too loud, and thast around 11 o'clock or lower. We arent a loud band but we dont have PA support as such, just a bit fo DI to give a bit of spread to the back of the room. I do find the gain to be a bit higher on the F1, compared to my SA450/LMII, so i have the gain knob around 11 o'clock, on my old SA450 it was around 3 o'clock. I dont have the LED flashing.
  5. [quote name='Musicman20' post='1335652' date='Aug 10 2011, 08:39 PM']I dont think I ever had the master above 1/3 with an 8 ohm cabinet on the LM3! I think if I needed more power itd be the TH RH750, but to be honest, I dont very often need masses of volume. I was told the best way to run amps like this is to not worry about the wattage and add speakers/cabs if you want more volume.[/quote] The times i had to turn right up were with smaller cabs like my MB 151P. I never go near halfway with my 1212L
  6. In my limited experience of running my old LMII and SA450 hard I have to agree. Ive only had to go over about 1 o'clock on the master a few times but it wasn't nice. Not sure if it was the cab or head but it just seemed to compress more and not get louder. Then again it's nicer than doing the same with my old ABM head.
  7. [quote name='Prime_BASS' post='1333902' date='Aug 9 2011, 06:04 PM']It's like old Ed Freidland, I hate the way he cuts the highs and boost everything else, although he will demonstrate "flat" and his videos are the most informative aswell.[/quote] Ed can make anything sound good but i love the fact that he demonstrates with both finger and pick most of the time. As a 99% pick player its not easy finding online videos of new gear played that way.
  8. [quote name='stingrayPete1977' post='1334169' date='Aug 9 2011, 08:52 PM']Have a look inside the Lakland to see if the ground wire is still attached properly if it is try putting some wire from the ground connection (just wrap it round tight nothing fancy) then attach it to the bridge if it's like a church mouse after I'd say take the bridge off and get the earth wire and put it in a new spot under the bridge as it's probably sunk into the body, I have had that a few times and it looked like it was assembled with the body finish still wet![/quote] There might also be a trim pot in there that will allow the output to be turned up or down. If there is a marked difference between active and passive mode on the Lakland this can be used to balance the two modes out. It might be set too high (im basing this on my old 55-01 with NTMB preamp)
  9. [quote name='Linus27' post='1334347' date='Aug 9 2011, 10:57 PM']I am well and truely in the Stingray camp at the moment. It sounds stunning through my MarkBass combo. Anyway, don't let me influence you, you must go back to a Duck Dunn. You seemed the happiest when you had one.[/quote] Well after 11 months with my CV P i now realize i do like P basses, so now is the time to get something that looks a bit nicer. Fiesta red.....yuck, metallic CAR....sweet.
  10. [quote name='Linus27' post='1334347' date='Aug 9 2011, 10:57 PM']I am well and truely in the Stingray camp at the moment. It sounds stunning through my MarkBass combo. Anyway, don't let me influence you, you must go back to a Duck Dunn. You seemed the happiest when you had one.[/quote] Well after 11 months with my CV P i now realize i do like P basses, so now is the time to get something that looks a bit nicer. Fiesta red.....yuck, metallic CAR....sweet.
  11. [quote name='Linus27' post='1334342' date='Aug 9 2011, 10:50 PM']Dave, when I think of the Lakland Duck Dunn I always think of you despite owning one myself You are not complete with a Duck Dunn [/quote] LOL, yeah, i think its the one ive felt the most comfortable on. I was going through a Stingray/SUB phase when i got the last one so it didnt really stand a chance.
  12. [quote name='bassatnight' post='1334300' date='Aug 9 2011, 10:20 PM']Hi Dave, To be honest I would rather not open her up, she is mint without a mark. I think they were using Lindy's in 2008 but don't hold me to it. Steve.[/quote] Hi Steve. I totally understand. My last DD was also a 2008 and had a Hanson in it, i really hated it so that's why i asked. Its not a deal breaker but the fact that i dont know what the pre is is still putting me off. I realsie that Chandlers havent got back, and im not sure if they would know if they brought it off someone else already upgraded. I have decided, based on the above to look for a stock DD (and have placed a wanted add) but good luck with the sale. @Michael. Here i go again ;-)
  13. [quote name='Musicman20' post='1334168' date='Aug 9 2011, 08:52 PM']I know, but no chance at the moment. Id love to be able to gig both, and see which cuts it. Then, what happens if I also took the STL900 and that worked better?! Haha. What a nightmare.[/quote] Thats what happened to me when i thought i was trading my STL600 for Clarky's F1. Used both on two gigs and ended up buying the F1 as well :-)
  14. Steve. Any idea what pup it has? If its cloth covered wires then its a Fralin i beleive. Dont worry about opening it up if you dont want to though.
  15. [quote name='karlfer' post='1334090' date='Aug 9 2011, 08:09 PM']For Gods sake somebody buy it before I do something silly. Karl.[/quote] Thats what im still hoping for. I still want this.
  16. I know what you mean. Ken has a certain style and he likes a certain tone but thats not for everyone. Seeing as your thinking about the LMIII why not lower your sights slightly and think about a F1. Its a lot cheaper than the F500 and has the same EQ (although its missing a few other features).
  17. my stickers have arrived so hopefully ill get them on my neck before the next gig. They do seem pretty bright once activated with my LED keyring torch.
  18. Ken's got this F1 vs LMII comparison video. Thats the closest i can think ive seen. To my ears the F1 did sound nicer but both were so close i doubt it would matter at a gig.
  19. Cheers Steve. Its not so much the cost, its weather i will have a bass im not 100% happy with. Having owned these before i know exactly what to expect from a passive version, but if the pre amp is a bit naff or cheap then it will need more money spent on it. Plus i would want a black PG on and that 4th knob might cause a bit of extra hassle. Im sure im worrying unnecessarily but if the pre amp is, say a Bartoloni NTMB or something ive heard off im quite happy to buy it. Good luck with the Fretless.
  20. [quote name='bassatnight' post='1333198' date='Aug 9 2011, 08:53 AM']Morning Dave, I am trying to send you a PM but cannot? Hi Dave, The knobs appear to be Volume and three tonal changes, if the three knobs are bottom the bass seems to be passive, moving the switches towards the middle the bass the tone appears to be boosted and active? If I remove the battery the bass is dead regardless of knob positioning. Cheers, Steve.[/quote] Thanks for the reply Steve. Im still in two minds im afraid, while i do want it im not 100% on the pre amp unless i know what it is. Sorry if im messing you about, please dont wait for me if you need to shift it quickly.
  21. Steve. If you could give me a run down on what the knobs do ill give you a decision by the morning. I would especially like to know if the bass runs in passive mode, with or without battery if thats possible. Cheers.
  22. Any news from Chandlers yet? Cheers.
  23. I went through exactly the same process. I got a BDI21 4 years ago for a one off gig where there was no back line. I tried to use it over the following years but never felt it was better than straight bass tone. I was about to sell it last year so got it out for a gig, just to test it out and it was like i suddenly got it. Its all in the blend control. Im not after any real grit or fuzz so maybe it works better for me, but once it all clicked in to place i started to use it at every gig until i finally got a "real" BDDI (i also had a VT bass but sold that after a few weeks). To my ears (and most peoples IME) there isnt a great deal between the two tone wise, so maybe yours is faulty but like i said, i dont push the Drive up enough to get in to that type of tone. Another member has my BDI21 at the moment but i can get it back if you wanted to try it. In fact if you wanted to come over and try yours next to my BDDI let me know.
  24. Is this the P bass special we are talking about, the one with the jazz pups? I had one of these and i must admit ti put me off 5 string basses for a long time. I had already been playing a Steinberger 5 string but swapped it for a Squier. I just found the neck too wide for me and promptly sold it. Its the only 5 string ive struggled with. Its a nice bass though, and for £150 i guess its pretty good value.
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