dave_bass5

No. Only nickels. I find steel too bright.

Oh no, not me, I meant getting it done by someone that knows what they are doing. Like a few others I’m happy to do the electric’s and change the hardware, but that as about it. I just don’t have the correct tools, and it seems pointless getting them for a one off.

Ive got a Lakland JO maple Jazz neck sitting around that ive been thinking (for the past 5 years) of getting de fretted. This thread has reminded me. Might do something about it next year.

There’s a guy on FB selling a load of these. Looks for Mick Mason 😂

Thats how i play at home, but last Christmas i got a 25watt Fender Rumble LT25 combo. Really nice little thing with a digital front end for amp sims and built in FX etc. Problem is, i still prefer the private practice experience of headphones. The LT25 gets my vote, but its double the budget. Although there are plenty of small combos around i think its worth spending a tiny bit more (£150) and getting something that wont put you off. Any other option would be something like a Bluetooth speaker with a line input. I use one occasionally in the living room, fed from my Zoom B1, and it actually sounds very good.

I’m not sure where the pages are, but i had the BB435 early March and sent it back when we went in to lockdown. The short version is, i had a P34 and liked it very much, but i also have a Fender P bass and was always torn between the two. I couldn’t settle on the P34 while i had the Fender (and the Fender is never going anywhere). To me the Fender sounded more like i wanted a P bass to sound. Nothing wrong with the P34, it was close, but didnt have the ‘fender’ vibe that i already had. I also owned for a very short time a BB435, and it blew me away. Much closer to my Fender for the P sound. More ‘woody’ and less processed compared to the P34.

As AK said, Its not just a leap in quality. They sound different. No better, no worse. Even the low end BB’s are bursting with quality, Dont think you will short change yourself buy saving a bit and not getting a higher end model. Give me a BB434 over a P34 any day of the week. My reasons are well documented on here.

This bass looks like my old one, only i never upgraded the pups. I had the same preamp put in and also the toggle switch. My first real 5 string and still one of my favs as far as playability goes.

Which might not actually stop him though. I get the impression its common knowledge that he is doing it amongst his mates, who don’t seem to care.

Ah Brass. No thanks. I don’t like brass nuts. I guess its a nice feature if you are struggling with action at the nut end though.

There are many good ideas ,on paper, out there, but the nut is one of the things that doesnt need re inventing if its working perfectly fine already. I know some brands have unique parts on them, but i don’t buy in to all that expensive upgrade stuff is better if the basic versions are working as they should. Must admit ive never heard of the just a nut before though. Ill go and have a look.

Doubt it. Whats wrong with most nuts (😂)? Sounds a bit like Dingwall PR 😬

Easier to just file the slots if they are a problem.

My P34 was like that. Noticeable higher at the nut compared to my other basses. Not unplayable in the slightest, and only really noticeable because my Fender is very low, but now you mention about stiffness i did think the same when i had mine. It was just never an issue as far as playability went....at least, i didnt consciously think so.

Ha, ive just brought my son a set of add ons for that system for Christmas.. Ill get him to build me something 😂 Actually i think ive sort of cracked it. I have an old Korg N5 that I didn’t want to use, but apparently it will transmit on 32 midi channels. All i need is a normal Midi cable and to program it so its transmitting on the right channels. Its not ideal, i was hoping I could use a much lighter keyboard, but it will do until i find something more suitable.

I normally get my strings (and have been doing this for years) from Strings Direct, but through Amazon. As i have a prime account it works out cheaper than using the SD website.

Thanks for the reply. I dont need to specify the channels, although that would be useful. The way the MODX works is part 1 is channel 1, part two channel 2 etc. I can move the sounds around to different parts, so they aren’t set in stone. Ill just disable the keyboard control for the midi controlled parts. I’m using splits already, but wanted to use a midi keyboard so i can use the full range of each sound and stop using the splits. Its only basic Piano/organ with Brass on the midi keyboard. Nothing fancy and i want everything controlled from the MODX, except maybe pitch bend and mod, so no need for mapping controller stuff etc. Ill look at those you mentioned.

I’m looking for a small box (not rack box) that will take a single midi channel input, and output the signal on multiple midi channels using just a single cable. 2 out is fine, moire is better. This is to use a master keyboard to trigger some of the sounds on my Yamaha MODX. My master keyboard will only transmit on one channel, and the MODX has its midi channels set in stone for the parts. I dont want to go down the software with ipad route, so something like the Event Processor plus looks ideal, but a bit pricy for what I’m trying to achieve. Anyone seen anything cheaper (less than £150). I dont mind if its part of something else rather than a dedicated midi box.

I tried to get it back after the first lockdown but didn’t have an luck. It was from Dawson’s. I’d still love to have it back, but has to be that one as it was really just perfect for me.

Yes, it was a real surprise. When I received it I weighed it on the postal scales at work. These are calibrated so pretty accurate. It felt just as light as my Sandblasted P. And the icing on the cake was it cost £399 new.

I can recommend the Q/strip if it offers enough for you needs, Best EQ ive every owned.

Hah. Don’t worry, i would have pointed it out again if it had been relevant 😁

No, i told you ages ago when i had to change from my original WL-20 to the WL-20L 😏