dave_bass5

This was my worry. While ive put 19mm bridges on my bases that came with 20mm (my Squires IIR), I’d have thought a bass would be designed for the bridge it comes with. I’m sure the screw holes would be ok, but yes, pup alignment and width of neck must surely come in to it. Might not be a huge difference but I’d prefer to go the route with a new bass already being set up for 18mm (or even 17mm). But then my other thought is i doubt manufacturers make different sized pups and necks for a slightly narrower set up, so it’s possible that any bass that does have the narrower spacing is still using off the shelf parts. Obviously i could and probably am wrong. I guess the radius isnt too important, at least 10-12” should be fine. No, it has to be a new bass this time with everything in place.

That’s because you don’t read the manual 😂😌

Will that be ok as far as nut, neck and pup spacing goes? I used to have one on my old Squier JV P, but I remember there was quite a bit of space either side of the E and G string on the outside. As i said above though, i dont have a bass i can do with with so i will still have to buy a new bass.

Normally about 3 numbers before we finish I’m already thinking about the packing down and drive home, and the not getting up until late sunday morning. In fact I tend to spend the last set organising my Sunday in my head. The fingers know what to do so that leaves my head free to do more interesting stuff.

Ah cool. Never played one of those old basses. I’m not too worried about the nut width, I’m guessing a narrow bridge would mean its not going to have a wide nut. Something between 38-40,me is perfect for me.

Cheers. Ill have a look at thre LX4. Not a big deal breaker as far as ther markers go, but i firmly believe a P bass shouldn’t/doesn’t need to be active. As long as it can be defeated though its not an issue. Again, if everything else fits the bill then i can overcome it.

Wow, now that almost ticks all the boxes. Love maple boards, and who doesn’t like a white body. That would be on its way IF it had fret markers/dots. I don’t need them, but ive always hated how Sandberg necks look without them. Thanks anyway.

Ohh, that is nice. I have looked at Ibanez, but couldn’t find the string spacing for a lot of them. I will investigate this one a bit more. Gotta love BC for helping up the budget lol. I dont think 18mm is standard. Definitely not Fender jazz basses as they use standard bridges like most other brands. Ive never owned a jazz bass that didn’t have a standard 19mm bridge, and ive had a few Fenders. Just checked a review of the Performer Jazz and it states 19mm.

I don’t know, would it? Ive gone down from 20mm to 19mm, but never thought about going any lower. Wouldn’t that effect how the rest of the bass is set up? wouldn't here be more of a gap at the edges of the neck? I dont have a bass that I could do it to anyway, so I’d still need to buy a new bass. Just wondering what off the shelf basses have this narrower spacing.

Last week i got a 5 string that played and feels great. Very comfortable to play, but i really dont need a 5 string. Obviously i can just not play that string, but it got me thinking why i keep going over to 5 strings, and then back to 4. Its the narrower string spacing. I love how a 5 string feels to play, even if I’m only using E-G most of the time, and I’m guessing the flatter radius (12” over above) also adds to this. So now I’m looking for a mid price 4 string. Around £400-600 preferably. Definitely, definitely not looking to get a boutique one or a custom build. What are the options? I guess a P type would suit me better, but I’m not adversed to soapbar pups. Not really looking for a jazz type of bass.

I had a set from Strings direct last year, and they felt different to my last set (probably about 8 years prior). They sound great but yes, the pick seems to wear them out a bit faster. I did notice a drop it tone after what I would consider a normal period for other strings, but none of the flaking the old ones did, and they then stabilised for longer than normal.

Yes, a few times. Also NYXL’s and currently XT’s . I like them all, but I don’t find they last much longer than normal strings, at least for me. I get my usual XL’s for £18 so they seem to be more economical for me. I have Chromes in a drawer somewhere, and I think a set of GHS flats (purple ends?). I As i play with a pick I think i notice the overtones dropping more than with finger playing. I guess im just a sucker for buying new strings.

To the audience it is lol. I guess I’m generalising to a point, but even two different brands of flats wont sound the same, so its a tricky one. Flats do ‘mature’ over time as well, so a better companion as would be 3 year old flats vs 3 year old rounds. Flats would be more playable i guess, but they are designed to produce a certain tone, which isnt for everyone. And you should know what 3 year old rounds sound like 😂

I’m one of those that changes strings a almost every month. I don’t like over bright stings, i only use nickels, but i do miss the overtones after they start to wear in. I do want to try another set of EB Cobalt flats though. I briefly had a set last year but noticed a couple of rust spots on the D so sent them all back. Hmmm, might get another set at the next string change.

Ive got Chromes (not one a bass at the moment), and had TI’s a couple of times. Much prefer the TI’s, but ultimately, for me at least, flats are nothing more than dead strings that don’t go any more dead. No use for anything i do really.

Well that is the plan. 435 going back Monday, and ill get over to yours when i can. In fact i may even end up with yours 😂

I asked. Simple as that. I got the bass from Thomanns, who didnt have the bags (as they aren’t supplied with the basses outside the USA), so i emailed the CEO of Sire to ask how i could get hold of a couple, as i planned on getting a second bass. Obviously i hyped my enthusiasm up a bit, did a bit of gushing etc, and he said he would send me two, all i had to do was pay for delivery. We worked out that delivery was going to be quite and bit so he said forget paying that and just got them sent to me. Now THATS customer service.

For me the Mono was more GAS than need. Sire sent me two of their gig bags when i got my V7, so i was covered for transporting it. I was only going car to car, with a brief tube ride, so didnt want anything too heavy duty, nor bulky. The Mono seemed like a good idea (as was the Stealth end of last year year), but in practice it caused more problems than it solved.

My Sire V7 was the reason i got a Mono Vertigo a few years ago, but the combined weight and bulk meant i didnt use it much, and then sold it.

No problem. Ive been setting my own basses up for years. Not an expert but i seem to get the job done. The P34 is the first bass ive owned with a dual action truss rod. I don’t think i even knew it had one, let alone had the above ‘feature’.

Here’s something I learnt this week over on TB, and i wish i had known about this before, because I genuinely thought i had an issue with the truss rod in my P34 on a few occasions. The neck has never had an issue, but when i was setting it up i had a feeling the truss rod wasnt working 100%. Now i know it’s normal. Not my post, just cut and pasted here for information. Just be aware that with a dual-action truss rod there is a "dead-zone" or "neutral zone" that a lot of articles fail to mention. That's when the truss rod is set perfectly flat in it's middle position, meaning there is no bow happening in either direction. There will be a couple of 2-3 turns where you will feel no resistance from the truss rod before it finally starts to grab again, and start going in the direction you are asking it to. The first time I experienced this I was concern my truss rod was busted, but it will eventually get traction after a couple of turns in your desired direction and start to do its thing.

True. Ill get a respray and fall in love with it 😂 I am up to 3 BB’s now, and although i do love them all Ive just had a rocky relationship with it. It’s still my go to bass for anything 4 string, but i do (at least at the moment) prefer the tone of my new 435. It just that the 435 has that oversized thumb rest getting in the way.......

Ill have to sell my P34. Everyone seems to love them other than me, and I don’t know why i cant bond with it.

Never seen a F10, but the F112 is (relatively) bloody heavy. Even worse is its only got the one handle. i think even a F10 would be heavier than the BB2.

Thats the way i understand it, in the most basic way, and assuming we are talking decent drivers. 10's can do that, and in a 210 cab you have a larger cone area compared to a 1x12 so possibly a better chance of a low end. Maybe im wrong or over generalising though. I do know ive never been satisfied with a single driver cab, no mater who makes it. I felt my BF Retro 210 had a thicker tone compared to my BB2. Not as open and bright though. In isolation (at work) both sounded great, but with the band each were quite different. The 210 was very thick sounding, without the clarity, and the BB2 had the clarity without the mid heft.