Gwilym

My experience with G&Ls: a few years ago when I was a lunchtime regular at the Bass Centre at the Spittalfields shop, when they still had really good service - (thanks to Nick & Jim) - they had a couple of US series G&L's in stock - a green L2000 and a natural ash L2500. I played both a fair amount, the green one was an absolute killer, but I was put off by the colour and the fact that I was getting into a five string phase. The natural L2500 didn't really come close sound wise, even though it had a better set up. Maybe the strings were dead? But the L2000 had *something* about it. I've sometimes thought what might have been had i bought that green bass, and have had GAS for a G&L ever since, but never took the plunge. So my advice would be to find a shop with a few in stock and play them all. I'm not suggesting that they have low quality control, but definitely try a few so you can pick the cream of the already very good crop.

well I just bought Roady's Sansamp Bass Driver DI. He's pleasant, communicative and I'm leaving this feedback before he's even posted it, I'm that confident. A ringing endorsement then thanks Roady! EDIT: my sansamp arrived, really well packaged, exactly as described, and in super quick time. nice 1 Roady.

[quote name='owen' post='129660' date='Jan 28 2008, 11:12 PM']Thomastik Jazz rounds. Very boingy/spongy/low tension, very nice. Ceilliau y ci.[/quote] ta Owen, they sound good - but maybe a bit too springy? I did google them for some reviews and liked the sound of them ie they are not a hugely "bright" sound from what I've read. I'll add them to my shopping list even though the B is a .118 [quote name='dood' post='130223' date='Jan 29 2008, 07:03 PM']If you are absolutely stuck Gwil, NewTone strings actually made custom strings for my 7er (the low F#) that was designed around the tension of the string itself. You could see what they can offer you?[/quote] hi Dood, thanks for the advice and if I get stuck, I'll certainly consider it! Although, I never thought of custom ordering a set of strings before. I'll lookup them up anyway - can do any harm can it? Unless I end up with a bass with a low F#. [quote name='chris_b' post='130267' date='Jan 29 2008, 08:06 PM']DR Lo-Riders.[/quote] Cool, thanks Chris. I do like the DRs so I'll look into the low riders and see how they compare to the hi-beams. Have you tried both? What did you think the main differences were betweem them? Keep 'em coming! G.

+1 that is really quite nice looking IMHO. i've seen far worse hack jobs on far worse basses...

hello all I've a 35", 5 string bass. Now, after playing a 35" scale for while now my only misgivings about it is the higher string tension due to the increased length of the string. It's a small difference, but noticable to me, and I prefer how the same strings feel on my other 34" scale basses. What I don't want to do is sell the bass! Options: using "heavier" strings, but that they have the same gauge. Ideally I don't want to use narrower strings. So is there such a thing? Strings I've used, and found to be too stiff: Elixir nanowebs (45, 65, 85, 105, 130 taper wound B ) DR Hibeams (45, 65, 85, 105, 130) any suggestions? they need to be long enough too cheers G

chaps, slightly off topic, but I've an NHOP cd called Duets which is him and Mulgrew Miller playing the Duke Ellington composed bass/piano duets. It was a promo for Bang & Olufsen and released on through B&A, which I bought at their jazz cafe gig in London a few years ago. Anyway, I was just googling to find out a bit more about it and found [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=170187801993"]this listing on ebay[/url]. There's some absolutely beautiful music on there, and it's going cheap too...

QUOTE (jwbassman @ Jan 23 2008, 06:22 PM) Nice one Dave - glad to hear it... I've had a number of bits and pieces off Dave (including a mod to my BBE Bmax T as well as serveral different bespoke cables) and can't recommend him highly enough, great quality, service and value for money +1 from me. (hi Dave! )

[quote name='TGEvans' post='119482' date='Jan 13 2008, 01:08 PM']Hi all. Your two pence worth please. I am nearly ready to put an order on for a new bass. But, I am not sure whether I want an mtd american 535 or a spector. Have dreamt of owning both for years. I am pretty sure that it will be a fretless that I go for. Help please, What do you guys think? I know its a personal thing overall but opinions do count! Tim.[/quote] hi Tim I can't comment on the spectors, but if you want to try out my 535 you're very welcome, it's a wenge neck/fb, poplar body. as long as you come to me cheers G

[quote name='Tee' post='112294' date='Jan 2 2008, 02:05 PM']Those PJ cabs always make me think of the Daleks Or is it just me? [/quote] [attachment=4478:black_dalek.jpg] + [attachment=4479:rrobot.jpg] = PJ rig

nice tone. shame about the song i love the p-bass tone on [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9qsFpZ4b47A"]this[/url]. and the bass line it pretty good too

hiya Mike hope you're well. that's looking very nice.... btw, for everyone else, here's a photo of how it used to look. [url="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v722/Gwilym/Basses/DSCN0800.jpg"][/url] cheers G

[quote name='RIM Basses' post='104766' date='Dec 15 2007, 08:36 PM']dave has told me they sound much better than the TF550B![/quote] i'd be interested in why and how they do/would sound better than the tfb-550. it looks to me to be exactly the same amp with a bigger power stage?

sweeeet! Love the Fender, Lakland, BC Rich... and of course, the Wal ! LPB is my fave colour on the DJ too. What's the string spacing on the Fender RB? I'd quite like to try one out some day. cheers Gwil

[quote name='Stickman' post='85687' date='Nov 8 2007, 09:53 PM']Got a problem with the battery compartment on both my Gary Willis basses - if I use them in active mode I get audible 'thumps' due to the battery moving when any pressure is applied to the battery compartment door (i.e. by my body). Anyone else had this problem? Any suggestions for a solution?[/quote] are the battery clips/battery poles making a secure/tight enough contact? i think I had a similar prob (not same bass though) one time because of it, and went away once they were adjusted with some pliers. also worth sticking some foam around the battery to keep it snug in place.

[quote name='stingrayfan' post='85606' date='Nov 8 2007, 06:25 PM']They're great for passive basses - bit pointless with active ones as they're just active EQ on top of active EQ. Disagree with the comment about these pedals making up for crappy gear. You could say the same about active basses. Is a Stingray or Warwick rubbish because it's got active EQ? Watch out for the input/output jack sockets on them though - they're not built to last. Would be wise to mount them on a pedalboard.[/quote] +1 sounded good with my old passive Fender P/J Jazz. However, it did nothing for my active Smith. If your bass is active, try before you buy.

[quote name='bass_ferret' post='83005' date='Nov 3 2007, 12:14 AM']you still have not answered my original Q. Whats the full rig? I dont know heaps about GK but I know they have a bi-amp facility on some gear. If you have been using a GK combo with bi-amp and you have been putting the bass through the tweeter of the Accugrove cos you have used the wrong cable its gonna sound sh*t![/quote] I certainly haven't used the Accugroove as an extention cab to the GK combo, a never intended to either. no biamp facility on the MB150, i think just on their large amp heads? ok, current amp is Demeter VTBP-201s pre or Trace V-Type pre into a Trace Elliot PPA300 power amp, which has two channels, but not bridgeable, hence my preferred 2 cab solution.

[quote name='obbm' post='82965' date='Nov 2 2007, 10:21 PM']Then you might need one of these:- [/quote] to me, that looks like a cross between a BIG HEAVY cab and a tea cosy