simwells

Really wish I didn't have to wait however long to get the hot hand Midi EXP pedal, the expression pedal looks interesting too, hopefully the outputs will both be useable for CV control. Anyone seen any other information on these?

Personally I went with the Markbass Super Synth and have been very happy with it. Unless you want to go with one of the units that requires a specific pickup to be attached to your bass the main units are the Boss SYB5/3, Markbass Super Synth, EHX Micro Synth, Korg G5 and Chunk Systems Octavius Squeezer.

Bought a Markbass Super Synth pedal off him, absolutely fantastic communication and great to deal with all round. Thanks mate!

Looks like it's going to go for a bargain...

[quote name='Musky' timestamp='1327134245' post='1506731'] So what are these violin smashing references all about then? I seem to have missed that. [/quote] http://www.regretsy.com/2012/01/03/from-the-mailbag-27/

[quote name='LukeFRC' timestamp='1327097826' post='1506551'] or like the musician guitar shape, but 3 a side [/quote] If you meant musicman there then that's what I was thinking of, not quite the same but similar shape.

That would be fine then, thinking about the polarity comment does make me question it if I'm honest! Definitely did try it off a psu that was set up correctly and it wouldn't power but I'm pretty sure that was a very cheap one that was unpredictable at the best of times and hummed a lot so it could have been that it was badly regulated as well as underpowered for the quoted voltage. So I would take what I said with more than a pinch of salt!

Thought I'd already replied to this :S Maybe not the advice you wanted now but my VT-1 wouldn't show any signs of life whatsoever if ran from my 9V johnnyshredfreak supply, worked perfectly off the 12V though. Also unless isolated I've always seen it stated that you shouldn't mix polarities on one power supply.

Personally with those I'd go Tuner > Octaver > B3k > Envelope > Chorus Tuner always first to give it the best signal to work from then octaver for same reasons plus I don't like putting an effected signal into one. Then fuzz/distortion as again earlier always sounds better though obviously it's getting a bit of a struggle now, plus I like distortion into filters rather than the reverse. I would play around with what you like the sound of though.

The sounds out of it I thought were alright though didn't particularly impress me but then I think I was after a more traditional wah. Was perfectly usable just not for me and the operation of it just frustrated me.

Have the Rickenwaffen given up?! Everything not using the name seems to be getting through suddenly!

Bought some Straplocks off Paul, very helpful quick and straight forward thorughout. Recommended!

[quote name='fonzoooroo' timestamp='1326959355' post='1504170'] It's just an "hours at the bench" job... Cost depends on how easily the neck comes out, (which tends to depend on the glue used by the well meaning DIYer) If you were incredibly lucky, it could be out/back in in an hour. (+overnight drying... you're only looking at £50) That's best case scenario though - realistically, expect another couple of hours work! To repair the button properly, the back needs to come off - Personally, I wouldn't worry about that on one of these... As long as the joint fits properly, it'll be fine. Once the neck's set, you may either need the bridge re-cut, raised and re-cut, or replaced. Is that crack in the chin of the scroll still open too, or is it repaired? [/quote] Thanks, looks like I'll have to take it and see what they estimate then, the scroll crack I thought had been repaired but on closer inspection sadly I think not but there is virtually no movement in it currently at least, still another thing to repair though! Any suggestions on value of this once repaired? So I know if it's even worth undertaking when I get a quote.

[quote name='Batfastard' timestamp='1326922082' post='1503917'] You could try going to a local engineering company with some measurements and get some flat bar shaped with a front plat to mount a bass hanger of your choice on. You don't ask, you don't get. [/quote] Yeah I'd do something like this or just get a piece of flat bar bend the end and attach a wall hangar to it. Or get a wall hanger that the actual hanging section screws into the bracket, unscrew this then drill and tap a piece of flat bar and screw it on.

Just realised the picture doesn't exactly show the neck alignment well! Can take more if it helps but viewed straight on the E string is no longer over the fretboard at the end of it.

Just picked up this bass, and as I know basically nothing about them thought I would ask on here if anyone could tell me any more about it other than being made in Czechoslovakia (as it was at the time!) and fairly old. Also as you can see the neck/fingerboard seems to be currently set at an odd angle and so I presume will need resetting, any suggestions on a rough cost of getting this done?

Just completed a pedal trade with Shep, very straight forward and helpful all round. Definitely comes recommended!

Yep it's the case that you definitely notice it on and it seems to take forever to get rid of. Personally I feel it's something that should be mentioned if it has been smoked around heavily, well the case at least, I've yet to be aware of a bass that had noticably held the smell of smoke after a quick clean.

Seen this Luke? http://dirtyoldman.multiply.com/journal/item/108/Help_Do_U_Know_Me_Vintage_Yamaha_SG-400?&show_interstitial=1&u=%2Fjournal%2Fitem

Thanks, would need to work with control voltages yes, I'll work out where I think the board's actually going then have a think about what makes the most sense.

Did you get to an answer with this? I'm basically after the same thing at the moment.

That black and blue single cut is amazing!