escholl

Still here. Anyone?

[quote name='lemmywinks' post='385244' date='Jan 19 2009, 06:42 PM']It doesn't come with a DC jack on it, just battery, which is why i thought wiring it up for a centre -ve adapter would be ok. i understand that most pedals ground through the sleeve which is usually the +ive. I'm asking cos after i connected it up to work off my adapter i sent it to the repair shop to have the pots looked at (they were crackling), paid £15 and took it home. Didn't work. Took it back and collected it Saturday and was told it was £30 as i'd blown the transistors (the repair guy had taken it upon himself to rewire it "correctly"), so when i connected it up it blew Just want to know if i'm in the wrong really, i took advice from other forums and just switched the wires around. If i'm wrong i'll pay up, if not i'm taking the pedal and getting my initial £15 back as AFAIK he didn't fix the pots![/quote] So he "corrected" it without telling you? and because of that it's now broken? By the way, wiring it up through the battery clip is fine, there's no reason that shouldn't have worked. Also, +1 to Toasted's post as well.

I don't know about the Solo version, but I've got the full version of GTR3 and it's brilliant. I've got NI GuitarRig as well, and have found GTR3 to be much, much better for bass and guitar. The different models for bass are good, but the only one I ever use is the "SolidState" one, which is also the one that's in the Solo version. I can, literally, get nearly the same sound out of that as I can get live out of my actual head. It's brilliant. I've just recorded a demo using it actually, so I'll try and get it posted tomorrow for you, then you can hear what it sounds like.

That adapter should give you no problems, and/or reversing the wires is fine. AFAIK the Muff isn't a positive ground pedal. Hope that helps

I like it, except for the "wharfdale" badge bit, that doesn't look quite right. It's a bit different, yea, but then again my amp is also quite a bit different looking, so i suppose it's just what i go for. Seems to have some good features built into it as well, interesting to see what the price will be.

It does say "4 ohm minimum load" on the back of the amp, don't know what the impedance of the cabs is though.

[quote name='alexclaber' post='382603' date='Jan 16 2009, 04:37 PM']Actually I did mean the tone, not the perceived pitch. You're quite right that the harmonic content defines the timbre but what I was trying to make clear is that in the lowest register the harmonic content becomes quite strangely skewed due to the note wavelength vs instrument size and therefore those lowest notes on an ERB still sound like a bass guitar even though their harmonic balance is very different to an octave or two higher.[/quote] Sorry, you've confused me a bit on the last part there...what do you mean? Also the second half of your post makes a lot of sense, I'd noticed that sort of effect before and thought it might be something like that, but I'd never put in all together in my head.

I never had a problem with mine picking up radio, but it did seem to pick up a fair amount of noise. Does seem to be an issue with the PD7 though. Does it only happen with the pedal engaged, or does it happen in bypass mode too?

[quote name='benwhiteuk' post='382176' date='Jan 16 2009, 11:40 AM']Yeah it’s a good thing if I was ever going to run it with a battery, but I’m not, so basically I have to have battery cap/compartment lid (whatever you want to call it) off all the time after I apply some Velcro because the battery lid has a 1 or 2mm lip that would stop the Velcro attaching flat to a carpeted surface. Seeing as how many players apply Velcro to the bottom of their pedals for them to be used with a carpeted pedalboard, I think the battery compartment could have been designed better.[/quote] The programmable version has got little feet on it like the old one in your photos, so the velcro thing isn't an issue with the battery compartment -- i wonder why they didn't do that on the new version you've got there? Well, hang on to the old one for a few more years, and then sell it to some nut as an "original, vintage" version for 5 times what you paid for it.

Yes, I seem to remember that Maplin do sell those connectors, they're similar to the ones they use for some types of car speakers or something, which is why they stock them. I've got a Blackfinger that uses the same power supply, so I know what connector you're talking about. As long as you can feed it 12V AC, then it should be fine, it looks like the Flatliner can supply 1000mA on that AC output so it should be more than enough for that pedal.

[quote name='alexclaber' post='382387' date='Jan 16 2009, 01:56 PM']I seem to have gone off on a tangent but the essence of it is this - you will hear how low a note is even when you're missing the lower harmonics. The[b] tone[/b] of that note does not so much depend on the balance of the harmonic content but on the balance of the frequency content, so even if you're playing a 7-string with a low F# string as long as you get a good wodge of 50Hz action it'll sound fat and bassy and the way the overtones are stacked will make it sound a lot lower than four stringers low F# despite the vibrations hitting your eardrums being no lower in frequency. Alex[/quote] I'm guessing by "tone" you mean perceived pitch? Since the tone or timbre of a note is pretty much defined by the harmonic content, which is essentially the sum of the individual frequency and volume envelope components. Also wanted to add that the ear perceives these low frequencies (or any frequencies) by, IIRC, the largest common denominator between pitches. So even if no frequencies below 100 Hz are generated, a note with a 50Hz fundamental will generate 100, 150, 200, 250, and 300 Hz, as an example, and the ear will "hear" a fundamental of 50Hz since that is the LCD. 25 Hz, on the other hand, will generate 100, 125, 150, 175, 200 Hz (and so on) so the LCD is 25 Hz, and the ear will "hear" 25 Hz; end result is that it will sound much lower. So as Alex mentioned, getting a really strong second and third harmonic out of a cab is extremely important, as these will really "define" the fundamental pitch.

if you use the "1/4 inch out boost" button it should work fine.

[quote name='bremen' post='381237' date='Jan 15 2009, 01:17 PM']ok here we go: 'By comparison, the human voice is general in the range of 80 to 1,100 Hz, ' Those numbers refer to the fundamentals of the notes that humans can sing. Sounds like 's' and 't' have components well into the tens of kHz. Take a recording of human speech and cut out the frequencies above 1100Hz and it'll be pretty much unintelligible.[/quote] Also to add that part of human speech that makes it intelligible is around 2-4kHz, regardless of fundamental. Hence why this range is sometimes boosted if a vocal track is having difficulty standing out in a mix (instead of boosting the overall track volume) and why some older phone systems can be difficult to understand people over (as they cut frequencies above around 3k to minimize propagation distortion, or whatever it's called)

[quote name='Josh' post='380496' date='Jan 14 2009, 05:52 PM']Yep it's pull offs, just look at his hand.[/quote] I was just about to say the same thing. That, and the sound.

[quote name='matt_citizenbass' post='380397' date='Jan 14 2009, 04:38 PM']thanks for the advice guys. I think a PA head may be the best bet, i think i basically need to try out valve heads to see whether they actually suit my sound i just like the idea of having something thats classic looking, cheap and i can easyily add to my wall of amps to be. but i'm worried they'll be too warm cause my sound is really high endy (octave pedal) plus really distorted and i don't want any of that "absorbed" by the tubes. when i think of stuff like this i think of Jesse F Keeler from Death From Above 1979 (RIP) ([url="http://www.myspace.com/deathfromabove1979"]http://www.myspace.com/deathfromabove1979[/url]) who swore by solid state amps claiming that the tube transient response (i think) was too slow. what do you guys reckon?[/quote] The transient response is generally a bit slower with tube amps, hence why slap/pop people tend not to use them, the really sharp percussive attack is a bit damped compared to a good SS head. No inherent loss of high frequencies though, or else guitarists would never use them, although I suppose tube amps can vary as much as SS heads can from one to another. In general though, if anything, tubes will only improve your distorted high end sound.

[quote name='Machines' post='380410' date='Jan 14 2009, 04:45 PM']60w peak and a 350w head ? I think it'll not take a fat lot to kill that poor little speaker .[/quote] If he's only using it for home practice, then I'd be surprised if he'd be pushing as much as 10W rms through it. Some sensibility with the volume control is required for this to work, I think. But I've used a 250W head with these cabs just fine.

They are 16 ohm and 30 watts rms, 60 watts peak, IIRC. This would make sense as well as the head put out 60 watts rms into 8 ohms. Should be loud enough for practice (as long as by practice you don't mean rehearsal), remember the old "and cab + any speaker = works fine as long as there's no bad noises" thing.

Just to add to what others have said, a PA head may be the best bet, but if you can find any old head over a 100W then that may do the trick, depending on how sensitive your speaker cabs are and how handy you are with electronics. Replace the electrolytics, all of them, just to prevent any problems with age. And if you find the bass is a bit lacking, then by changing some of the caps in the signal path to larger ones that should sort the problem. If you've no idea what I talking about then don't worry, it's tough to explain over the internet. But I've done this sort of restoration thing before, and with proper care and attention the results can be really good As the circuits are much simpler, valve amps can be just as reliable if not more so than solidstate, but since many of them are so old they do need a bit of care and attention up front.

[quote name='wotnwhy' post='378063' date='Jan 12 2009, 06:25 PM']as for the boost only eq, i'm still a little confused by it. set everything to zero and you have silence, but surely if it's boost only you need a signal to 'boost'... to be honest i've found that setting everything in the middle gives me a good starting ground, then just eq like normal. [b]can't find any difference of note* to a normal amp eq frankly.[/b] so i don't think it should be a worry[/quote] That'll be because it's the same sort of tonestack that a lot of other bass amps have been using for years, typical 3 band thing. For example, the AD200B has a similar sort of EQ. I might be wrong on this but I'm pretty sure this sort of tonestack is cut only, not boost, hence why when everything is at zero, the output is zero. I don't know why everyone seems so concerned about it, or something? It's very common.

[quote name='truebassman' post='376430' date='Jan 10 2009, 08:44 PM']We are ALL THE SAME ![/quote] Except when it comes to experience. Which you can't share, if you don't have. [quote]If you are still frustrated, why not start your own Beginners Bass Forum ? I wish you luck.[/quote] See above in relation to experience. How would a new forum, comprised only of people with no experience, solve this problem?

[quote name='Eight' post='376309' date='Jan 10 2009, 05:53 PM']I've seen this happen on other non-bass forums. People with the real knowledge and experience don't learn or find anything interesting in the "beginners" section and so stop visiting, then the only people left to answer questions are other beginners.[/quote] Well, I enjoy teaching, so yes, I would regularly visit. I can only speak for myself though, and I'm not as nearly as experienced as some. Still, I can't imagine I'm the only one who feels this way, so my guess would be that a fair few of us would hang out in that section.

To go: -15" HH bass driver, works fine except the voice coil appears to have become seized within the driver frame, not sure what is causing it but i believe it may be due to the corrosion which is present everywhere else on the frame. Other than that, everything seems to be intact. -12" HH bass driver, needs a new voice coil (i think), good condition otherwise, don't know if this would be worth anything to anyone but if someone wants it they can have it. -rack-mount DJ mixer, turns on and seems to work, however signals are heavily distorted. Pretty sure it's a power supply issue and should be a relatively easy repair, however I'm not going to have the time to do anything about it in the next few months before i move. -HP Type 56 Deskjet Cartridge, will fit: 450, 5150, 5550, 5650, 5850, 9650, 9670, 9680 HP Photosmart 7150, 7260, 7350, 7450, 7550, 7660, 7755, 7760, 7960 HP Printer / Scanner / Copier 1110, 1210, 1311, 1315, 1350, 2110, 2175, 2210, 2410, 2510 HP Officejet 4110, 4215, 5505, 5510, 6110 HP Digital Copier Printer 410 HP Fax 1240 --may also be adding an older desktop PC and a freeview box, pending my testing to see what condition they are in, would anyone be interested?

Ashdown ftw! Never had a problem with the one I used to have, and am planning on getting a LG350 when I can afford it, so stuff like this is great to hear

I would just like to add my support for this as well, I actually think it could be a really good idea. Well done AM1 That, and it'll be nice to occasionally deal with people who don't already know everything.

Status Roundcore 45-105 Considering how good they are, the price, and their longevity, I'm surprised more people don't use them.