escholl

:wub:

[quote name='katri' post='321017' date='Nov 3 2008, 03:47 PM']would a 30mA be safe to use if it only needs 20mA?[/quote] Yes. [quote]also would i be cool to power this with a dunlop DC brick?[/quote] Yes.

[url="http://media.putfile.com/effects1"]Yamaha bass -->Blackfinger --> Sansamp--> GTR3 -->Sonar 7[/url] I've done a lot of useful stuff with GTR3 as well, but I know that's not really an "effect" and is more of a processing tool so i won't put up any more stuff unless people want it. It does, however, sound amazing, and it is possible to get some really, really great atmospheric/sound-scape stuff out of it. I'll try and load some clips of actual hard-wired effects up later.

20mA seems right to me, it's only a preamp. it's not really doing very much, from a power consumption standpoint; basically just a few gain stages and a few filters. in fact, the largest single current draw on there is probably the LED. and i still fail to see why they couldn't put a voltage converter in there themselves.

having shipped back and forth from both continents, i would def agree that USPS is the way to go. The cheapest by far, and they forward to parcel force so stuff is easy to pick up/have delivered. whatever you do, don't use fedex. they're great in the states, but crap international.

[quote name='The Funk' post='319144' date='Oct 31 2008, 03:53 PM']I'm not sure if Sibelius has any kind of scan feature to do something like this. That'd be the first place I'd check.[/quote] As far as i know, it does.

what is the preamp comprised of? individual transistors, or op-amps? have you checked that the voltage regulators are putting out something reasonable, ie if there's a + and - one (which is usually the case, probably a xx78 and a xx79 series) they're both alright? Are all the contacts from the preamp to the power amp clean? no dry connections, or anything like that? All other contacts and connections checked? I'm guessing the components all *look* ok, have you checked that none of the electrolytics are leaking (electrically, not physically)?

really great guy, does what he says and super easy to deal with. bought an entire rig off of him with no hassle at all, and he even gave us directions when we got lost picking it up. would definitely deal with again.

[quote name='BassInThePlace' post='316523' date='Oct 28 2008, 10:42 AM']Well, the pre-shape does actually effect the sound as it should in my MkIII, but in the newer Traces (ie MkV) the only way to adjust the EQ post pre-shape is to toggle the EQ button. This way you get the pre-shape [i]and[/i] the EQ.[/quote] it may be then that this was only something implemented on the later traces then? [quote]This doesn't have the EQ toggle, so maybe you are correct in that dialing in the EQ will [i]always[/i] affect the sound no matter if the pre-shape is in or out..... Tbh, maybe it is just the headroom - in rehearsals i'm not even hitting 9 o'clock on my output and it's loud enough for the band. Sometimes [i]too[/i] loud actually. I'll mess with it tonight and see what I can find out. Cheers for the help.[/quote] If it's not causing a problem, i wouldn't worry too much, yes i suppose there is probably an "optimal" place to set the preamp gain etc but if it sounds good and there's no issues, it's fine. Just use your best judgment.

[quote name='obbm' post='316471' date='Oct 28 2008, 09:55 AM']The Rolls PM351 Monitor Mixer needs -12v ...with respect to signal ground.[/quote] positive ground circuitry?

bump. it's now being stored inside, but it's still available to anyone.

I use the maplin VN10 (the one that Dave actually has pictured on his site) for just about everything, it's silent as anything and does a whole range of voltages. Ok, it's large(ish), but it does the job properly with good filtering and regulation, etc.

i'm actually wondering if there is anything wrong? IF the pre-shape button DOES affect the sound as it should, but doesn't bypass the graphic, then that seems to be the norm, at least on the later ones. and it's entirely possibly that trace have just put in a huge headroom on the preamp so only the highest signals will clip it. they're well designed, so really, it wouldn't surprise me if that was the case. try setting the preamp gain to about 7, adjusting the preshape, graphic, and other controls to your liking, wack the volume up and see what it's like? I should have mentioned in my first post, even if there WAS any DC leakage from your bass, it wouldn't matter, the amp is designed to filter that out anyways. I can't actually think of why an amp tech would tell you that was the issue, either. Not if they know anything about amplifiers...not trying to put him down or anything, but DC filtering is an essential part of all but the most pretentious hifi amplifiers.

no, you won't damage it. did the amp tech know that there was a problem? or was he just looking at it to give it a general approval? unless he knew there was a problem, then in a quick look he'd have no way of knowing if something, such as a filter circuit or whatever else, might be not working. Components can look fine but not be fine, if you know what i mean. Also, i've never owned a trace so i'm just guessing here, does pre-shape actually force the eq into bypass, or does it simply engage a preset filter into the signal path, which can then additionally be adjusted with the EQ? does the sound change at all when you engage the pre-shape button?

The very, very, very first think that your bass signal is likely to encounter in the trace head is a capacitor, which is aptly named as a DC blocking capacitor. Try it with a different bass when you can. Has it always worked properly?

the noise figure is actually given in nV/sqrt(Hz), or nV per square root of the frequency. there are, however, likely to be other factors that will attribute to a better sound, the TL0 series are pretty good so i wouldn't be surprised if the sound does improve somewhat.

[quote name='alexclaber' post='314587' date='Oct 25 2008, 03:50 PM']No, they're actually about -3dB @ 44Hz with 1W, that's their true frequency response. The Beyma 21" is a good driver (though quite expensive) but it is crippled in that relatively tiny cabinet - it needs to be in a box the size of a fullsize 2x18" PA sub to really do what it's meant to do, i.e. something of about twice the volume of an Ampeg 8x10" and far far larger than the AccuGroove enclosure. It's like putting a 1000bhp engine in a super-aerodynamic car to break the diesel engine speed record but only setting the gearing so in top gear it hits the redline at 100mph, not 300mph! Alex[/quote] haha really? how can they claim 21 Hz then, that's absurd....surely it's some sort of false advertising? tbh, i've always thought the box was a bit small for that driver, but given that i only know a little of speaker design i'd put it down to some sort of clever engineering

[quote name='bassmansky' post='314409' date='Oct 25 2008, 10:50 AM']make that 5! [/quote] six! haha

[quote name='alexclaber' post='314389' date='Oct 25 2008, 10:22 AM']I was actually referring to the Whappo Grande made by AccuGroove which uses the Beyma 21" woofer. It does indeed exist but their -3dB @ 22Hz and -6dB @ 19Hz frequency response claims are more than an octave different from reality! Alex[/quote] i'm guessing by the octave difference part you mean they're -3dB at 44-ish Hz while they're at their max SPL, or something like that? I don't remember what those graphs were called that you had, something about frequency response at max SPL -- is this what you mean here? on another note, i would add something constructive to the topic debate but i think that everything that needs to be said has been, and then some....

[quote name='captain black' post='312483' date='Oct 22 2008, 08:38 PM']I don't thiink these have a diode for protection.[/quote] they do. i repaired one that suffered a similar problem, only it would no longer turn on. believe it or not, it's probably the circuit that controls the led turning on and off with the footswitch...overcomplicated and poorly designed, when it fails the whole device is screwed due to the design. i ended up just cutting it out of the circuit and putting in a different design. no guarantees your problem is the same though. [quote name='benwhiteuk' post='312599' date='Oct 22 2008, 10:57 PM']Apparently MXR were trying to say that it was a dodgy batch, but he just told me that they were really cheaply produced…[/quote] poorly designed (in some areas) + cheaply produced. shame, because they can sound pretty good.

[quote name='stacedabass' post='312409' date='Oct 22 2008, 07:24 PM']is this the kings of leon bassist?[/quote] i'm pretty sure it is, i know for certain that he uses a dd6, a tr2, and an ampeg....so combined with the "KOL" on the microamp, it's looking that way.

[quote name='bass_ferret' post='311646' date='Oct 21 2008, 10:29 PM']That didn't work very well did it The circle round the outside is -ve, the dot in the middle is +ve[/quote] ah i see, tip positive then...thanks dude!

[quote name='bass_ferret' post='311613' date='Oct 21 2008, 10:00 PM']Its often cos the people that make the pedal are c**ts who want you to use their adapter. The only way to find out the polarity of the DC for the Samson Airline wireless is to buy the adapter cos the connection on the pedal is not marked. Or ask me.[/quote] i'm going to be getting one in a few months, what's the polarity?

[quote name='EBS_freak' post='310596' date='Oct 20 2008, 04:47 PM']Do you think there is a comprimise in Class D?[/quote] yes, however, there are ways around it. a company called Tripath basically re-invented the class D amp, sadly AFAIK they also went bankrupt. However, you can still buy their chips various places, and they are amazing! they are much drooled over in the hifi world, and i've always wanted to see how their largest chip (which i think is 2x300W) would sound in a bass amp.