escholl

[quote name='benwhiteuk' post='250832' date='Jul 29 2008, 09:34 PM']Akai Deep Impact[/quote]

i knew i forgot something!

[quote name='Mr Fudge' post='250064' date='Jul 28 2008, 11:22 PM']A compressor, a nice valve drive, flanger/phaser, synth effect ( a really good one ), and a new wah.[/quote]

Compressor - i've got a EHX blackfinger that i absolutely love, picked it up for 85 pounds s/h here. Amazing compressor, imo, and can do a nice valve drive too, if you push it. Having said that, the BBE Optostomp and EBS multicomp seem to have a lot of followers here, and would certainly be worth trying out as well.

Valve Drive - the DHA stuff is pretty highly recommended, in fact don't think i've heard anyone with anything bad to say about it, at all. there's the EBS valve drive as well, looks promising but i've never heard it and i don't know anyone who has it. there's always the valveless "valve drive emulation" route as well, ie sansamp stuff etc.

Flanger/Phaser - imo, the best one i've heard is the TC Electronic SCF. Chorus, Flange, and Pitch modulation all in one, and all analog too. For a cheaper option, boss and digitech each do something in the phase/flange range, don't really know much about them.

Synth effect - never really looked into synth bass as i've never had a use for it. boss make one, as do ibanez, but a lot of people seem to rate the digitech one. If it was my money however i'd go for the EHX bass microsynth, which they've just released a sexier updated version of for 2008.

Wah - there's a lot of options here again that i haven't really looked into. the Dunlop 105Q is the one i almost got at one point, but tbh nowdays i think i'd spend the bit extra and go for the EBS Wah One.


i'm sure there's stuff i've missed/never heard of.....but that's what i'd recommend. as always, try before you buy, if you can


--Eric

[quote name='Clive Thorne' post='225261' date='Jun 23 2008, 07:05 PM']Rather late in the day, but Dell notebooks are known for this. There is a problem in the power adaptors that only have the live and neutral connections, ie no earth. With a multimter I can measure 100Vac on the metal parts of the laptop relative to earth! Thankfully its a high resistance so not actually dangerous (so dell Say), but its bloody irritating.

Try Googling 'Dell notebook shock' and you'll get pages of hits. Of course Dell insist that is not a problem and that all notebooks have this 'feature'. Strangley no other makes seem to have pages on the web dedicated to it.

Of course it might be something else. Run your laptop on batteries and see if the problem goes.

If it is the laptop, and its a dell, then give them a call and bollock them![/quote]

It's not just dell adaptors. pretty much any SMPS without an earth input will give around 80-100 Vac, generally on the (-) output, at least IME.

Annoying, but it won't kill you in this particular situation.

overpowering in volume, it is not....


...but it sounds good, if you can hear it

[attachment=11378:DSCF0294_small_.JPG]
(taken before i sold my lmb-3)

how much are you looking to spend here?

i've got some dunlop 2 part fingerboard cleaning stuff that darkens the board...but you have to re-do it about once every season. it cleans the fretboard as well, which is the main reason for using it.

[quote name='alexclaber' post='248807' date='Jul 27 2008, 10:19 AM']When brand new these fabric surrounds are far stiffer than after a good few hours of heavy use, to the point that Acme recommends breaking in their woofers gently as the extra surround stiffness when new can cause the cone to crease if driven hard.[/quote]


Surely it would be in the manufacturer's best interest to "break in" the cones ahead of time, preventing any possible damage?

I see what you mean though - PA, etc. surrounds are much stiffer. If you do get around to doing any measurements, like me know, I'd be really keen to find out the results before/after.

well, i've got one on my bass and i love it. really increased the sustain and tone, at least to my ears. i know for sure it increased the sustain b/c i timed it before/after >.<

cost me $105 from the US for a black, pre-slotted model....but i picked it up when i went to my parents in april, no idea on prices here in the UK.

they're way more solid that a standard bridge, and weigh probably about twice as much. you MIA probably doesn't really need one but i would think the MIM could def benefit from one.

haven't really found any drawbacks at all to it, honestly have nothing bad to say about it. i love it.


and never did figure out what GAS stood for either

[quote name='alexclaber' post='248289' date='Jul 26 2008, 09:42 AM']Having listened to the 3015LF and 3015 before and after break-in I can state there is a clear lowering of Fs and raising of Qms and thus increased low frequency response after break-in. If I ever have an excess of time on my hands I'd be happy to measure the change in frequency response. The same is true for the Acme OEM woofers. I wouldn't expect much change in specs with hi-fi speakers due to the surrounds being far more compliant out of the factory.

Alex[/quote]

How do you know Fs is lowered and Qms is raised if you haven't measured it?

I'm not trying to be difficult or anything, it's just after so many years of hearing so many conflicting theories, I'm not sure what to believe, so I stick to numbers. I've only ever worked in the hi-fi industry, but while i can quite easily tell one DAC from another i've never heard the difference in "before" and "after" broken in speakers. That wasn't PA stuff though, obv, but it still contradicts what 99% of the population seems to believe about speakers.

At the end of the article, he does mention some PA subs that haven't changed after 4 years of "breaking in". I would really be interested to see the before and after measurements of the speakers you mentioned, as well as anyone else's experience in this area, mostly because I'd like to see once and for all what the answer is.

I'd test it myself - but i don't have the speakers or accurate enough test equipment

[quote name='ben_eat_pie' post='248157' date='Jul 25 2008, 11:08 PM']i'll give you a tenner (and a bump?)

cheers[/quote]


sorry, 15 shipped is as low as it goes atm. still a good deal cheaper than 4 sets new.

speaker break in huh?

think you might find an article like [url="http://www.audioholics.com/education/loudspeaker-basics/speaker-break-in-fact-or-fiction"]this[/url] interesting.

[quote name='Clarky' post='247923' date='Jul 25 2008, 04:15 PM']Hi there - I tried my bodge experiment last night and it worked! That is, until the next time I plug my bass in and it creates an electric vortex that sets off a nuclear fission reaction that destroys the universe and gives me a nasty electric shock at the same time [/quote]

haha glad to hear it worked. the cap is just one of those safety things for people as paranoid as me, and are easily frighted by electric vortexes

[quote name='Dr.Dave' post='226623' date='Jun 25 2008, 12:36 PM']Also in that earth path is a capacitor and resistor (values long forgotten) that I read about as a tip in Beat Instrumental (showing my age tthere). Theory is they'll blow should any current pass to earth leaving me sunburnt but not fried.

Happily I've never had chance to test it.[/quote]

this is a lot more important than people realize. A 100 nF or 220 nF 500V cap is all that's needed, and will serve to both block DC current or limit AC current if it all goes wrong. It will definitely get your attention, but it will also save your life.


[quote name='Clarky' post='247103' date='Jul 24 2008, 06:17 PM']Hi all, want to change pickup on my Fender P and bought a cool retro creme Dimarzio DP122. I need to desolder existing pickup first but don't have desoldering kit (braid or suction device).

Question is, can I melt the existing solder, pull out the current wires and then put the new wires into the existing solder 'blob' (re-melted with soldering iron) or is this a recipe for disaster? Trip to Maplins needed (drat) if my dodgy fix idea is a no-go[/quote]

if you tin the leads of the new pickup (if they aren't done already) it will make your life a lot easier when doing that.

i don't really know much about it, my housemate gave it to me but it's just sitting in the garage. rather see it get used, if anyone needs it. 15 inches, goes up to at least 1280 by whatever, 960 i think, and possibly higher but i didn't check. don't know what the refresh rate is because, again, i wasn't really paying attention but the picture was really sharp, well contrasted, and flicker free when i tried it. still in really good condition cosmetically as well.

obv, pickup only

will post a pic if wanted.

EDIT: the model is "Ergo 1280". also, i'm quickly learning that literally, you can't even give these things away

[quote name='umph' post='247396' date='Jul 24 2008, 11:18 PM']i think i found some ic's that do that kinda sound i need to order some though and find out, crazy tone occisilating ring mods are great[/quote]

really?...which ones?

ahh ok then, thanks guys. seems like i'll have to keep looking, if i chain a pitch shifter and then a delay, i think i might be able to get it. or i'll try to get a hold of a PS3.

not really that important overall i guess but would have been nice.

thanks anyways.

--eric

[quote name='cheddatom' post='247032' date='Jul 24 2008, 04:54 PM']a "doubler" is basically a chorus.[/quote]


so what i need then basically is a good delay pedal that will give me that kind of pitch-shifted feedback....i think.

do any of them do that?

i almost bought that pedal a few years back....i didn't realize it did all that though!

tbh, it's actually the only multi-fx that i ever considered buying, but i had heard at the time that the build quality/durability is not great? what do you think of it?

[quote name='bassicinstinct' post='246924' date='Jul 24 2008, 02:54 PM']Must be my PC speakers.

Just sounds like Chorus to me.[/quote]


errr...really? what kind of chorus does that?


EDIT: ahhh i see where you're coming from. it's not just a bassline underneath something, the entire track IS the bassline. the feedback/noise over the top of it is the effect i'm looking for, it must be the doubler (see above) that's adding the chorus-y effect.

well i did it in GTR3, just feed a lightly overdriven signal into it (i used a samsamp) and then the signal chain goes doubler (whatever that is) --> amp --> some kind of delay with lots of feedback --> compressor

but i wanna be able to do it liveeeeee....

bump.

anyone know which pedal(s) i can get it out of, instead of GTR 3? i'd like individual effects as well, never really been a fan of multi-effects units (although they def have their place).

[url="http://media.putfile.com/effects1"]Sound Clip[/url]

someone, anyone?

I've got a Fralin P on my bass, sounds amazing...imported it though so don't know if you can get them here

[quote name='stevie' post='245687' date='Jul 22 2008, 09:21 PM']It would be very unusual for a 200V filmcap to go in an HF circuit....If the crossover uses an L-pad (like a volume control), chances are that's what's gone.[/quote]

+1