escholl

[quote name='stevie' post='245687' date='Jul 22 2008, 09:21 PM']It would be very unusual for a 200V filmcap to go in an HF circuit....If the crossover uses an L-pad (like a volume control), chances are that's what's gone.[/quote] +1

no probs guys, glad that stuff could live on Pkomor - keep me updated if you need anymore of those misc bass parts for your project

the easiest way should just be to connect another amplifier (like a hifi amp or similar) across the terminals of the tweeter. put some material through the amp, and starting with the volume on the test amp all the way down, slowly start to turn it up. if you get past about 10% of the way up and you still can't hear anything, then the tweeter's gone. if you can hear the material coming through it, then it's not the tweeter. the fact there's no crossover won't hurt the tweeter in this test scenario as long as you keep the volume fairly quiet and don't go trying to max it out or anything silly

[quote name='BassManKev' post='244685' date='Jul 21 2008, 06:50 PM']hey, has to be more stable than mine [/quote] haha yea, but yours has the style

well, if you're only going to replace one pup, do the neck one, as that one will have more of the fundamental and so will sound 'bassier'. also, a normal E string tuned down to G has got to be pretty floppy, you'll probably get a much better sound when you switch to the heavier gauge strings as well. fitting pickups is pretty easy, if you can solder and are patient about it. just make sure you get the right ones, and they should go in easy.

yea me too, and i'd like to get one but i'm worried there'll be a reason why they're such a great value.... i.e. they fall apart

no board yet, but pedals nonetheless. what's the general opinion of the spider pedalboard cases? good value or not?

[quote name='BassManKev' post='243921' date='Jul 20 2008, 05:10 PM']do youself a favour, make sure you find someone and dont attempt it yourself! i tried, and managed to f*** up the trace on the board around the switch, gay. if anyone wants it btw, you can have it for a tenner [/quote] how broken is broken? do you have a picture of it? --eric

+1 for the Boss RC-20XL used one last year for about a month non-stop, really great. the bar limitation thing described above is annoying be it never stopped me doing anything i wanted to do, just had to think of a different way to do it. otherwise, you can do just about anything with it, i think it has about 14 or 16 minutes of recording time as well, something like that, and you can store 11 different patches as well, and just switch between them without having to re-record. having said that, the headrush seems to be really good too, obv highly recommended here. almost bought one myself, as it's also a great delay/tape echo pedal and not just a looper. it is a bit limited as far as recording time goes however, and i never felt it was really as good as a purely a loop pedal as some of the other alternatives. it should be noted as well that while you can record 23 or whatever seconds on it, you can only then overdub if you record less than half of that (11-ish seconds), or something like that. it is however, a bit more flexible than the boss in some ways.

15W seems about right, and if that's what's written on the back then that's what you'll need. 50 watts should be more than enough, in fact you can probably get away with less. they just wanted you to spend more money

just picked up an EHX Blackfinger, which is amazing. it's not really any sort of life changing thing however, with compressors it's more of a "you shouldn't notice that it's on, but you should definitely notice that's it off" kinda thing. before that i had a Boss LMB-3, which i thought was also quite good, just not as good as the EHX. --eric

just got an EHX Blackfinger off of him, great guy very friendly. Shipped it right away, and it was so well packed i had trouble opening it let it never be said he doesn't use enough tape and bubble wrap!

i'd highly recommend a fender st-1, or even better if you can find an old korg at-12 that would be perfect --eric

Just sold my PD7 to him; paid right away and very friendly throughout. Great guy, great to do business with.

ready.....go!

this is the simplest way to do it. it's how i did it on my yamaha as well. or did you mean like, the actual pot to use? i don't know what the inside looks like, but you shouldn't have to route anything as long as there is room for the pot?

i seem to recall there being some fuses inside as well, two of them i think, although you have to undo about 15 screws and slide the chassis out to get to them. it should come with a one year warranty as well, from ashdown.

well i have a couple theories, and i think it should be a fairly simple fix. definitely worth bringing it to a tech, any decent tech should be able to fix the problem fairly quick and simple. def not a write off, and shouldn't set you back too much, so no worries