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Everything posted by steve
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[quote name='Ou7shined' post='622101' date='Oct 9 2009, 10:38 PM']I think they took somewhere between 7-10 days to come. Not bad.[/quote] cheers for that, I've ordered some from there
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[quote name='Ou7shined' post='622035' date='Oct 9 2009, 09:18 PM']It was [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Fender-STD-Bass-Fretwire-Fret-Wire-Jazz-Precision-P_W0QQitemZ350261741499QQcmdZViewItemQQptZGuitar_Accessories?hash=item518d3a07bb&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14"]these[/url]. The fact that they are pre-curved was a boost.[/quote] gah, out of stock, how long did yours take to arrive?
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[quote name='dave.c' post='622050' date='Oct 9 2009, 09:51 PM']I've got a jazz control plate and a set of black plastic knobs if they are any use to you...you'll have to batter the control plate yourself though! Let me know if you want them. Nice to see an old Antoria being revived, I have fond memories of the brand from my yoof! Dave[/quote] Yep, I'll take them please Dave, how much are you looking for? It gives the impression of once being a decent bit of kit - I hope I can do it justice
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[quote name='Ou7shined' post='622035' date='Oct 9 2009, 09:18 PM']It was [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Fender-STD-Bass-Fretwire-Fret-Wire-Jazz-Precision-P_W0QQitemZ350261741499QQcmdZViewItemQQptZGuitar_Accessories?hash=item518d3a07bb&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14"]these[/url]. The fact that they are pre-curved was a boost.[/quote] cheers, I think I saw some of them in an online shop based in the uk - I'll have a hunt through my history and see what I can turn up
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[quote name='Ou7shined' post='621386' date='Oct 9 2009, 10:28 AM']Primarily probably the fact that it is a jazz (my jazz has a P neck) also I have a number of unfinished projects as it is - and let's face it we love doing it these jobs but they are a pain. I decided to play safe and bought some genuine (pre cut) Fender frets off evilbay. They had to come from the States but I felt the extra cost was justified to ensure some level of quality. I'm well chuffed with them too. Yeah maybe if it's too tatty but that natural P you did was/is a stunner.[/quote] sadly, the grain on this one isn't anywhere near as nice as the P - its made up of five or six pieces - actually as I'm typing this I'm picturing it with different segments stained different shades, hmm.... were the frets the vintage ones?
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What put you off? I think I'll follow you're advice regarding the bindings and the refret - where did you get your frets from? Still thinking about the repaint, it would be nice if the original dings and wear to the body could be retained.
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Here's my recently acquired from ebay Antoria Jazz, that's been around the block a few times [attachment=34166:PIC_0606.JPG][attachment=34167:PIC_0603.JPG] [attachment=34168:PIC_0604.JPG][attachment=34169:PIC_0605.JPG] Seduced by my Jazz Gas, and the pearloid blocked and bounded neck, I'm concerned I might have bitten off more than I can chew, so I would welcome anyones thoughts and advice as this (hopefully) progresses. I'm a bit confused about what is going on with the pickup routing - the bridge is routed for both a jazz and the smaller (I assume) original Antoria pickup, but the neck is just routed for a jazz. The easiest option for the body is to fit two jazz pups and a bridge ashtray to hide the extra rout and be done with it, but I quite fancy trying to get a faded daphne or even sonic blue body with a tort guard. The other big issue is the frets - or lack thereof. The easy option would be to keep it fretless, but I really want it fretted. I'm not sure about how to go forward with this bit. I'm also going to be looking for the following parts if anyone has any they want to sell - battered jazz control plate (possibly loaded) [color="#FF0000"]NOW SORTED - thanks Dave[/color] - control knobs [color="#FF0000"]NOW SORTED - thanks Dave[/color] - some frets [color="#FF0000"]NOW SORTED[/color] - (ideally an old) tort jazz scratchplate - [color="#FF0000"]NOW SORTED - thanks Russ[/color] - one (or a set of) generic tuners - [color="#FF0000"]NOW SORTED - thanks Rich[/color] - jazz neck pickup (I already have a fender bridge pup) - [color="#FF0000"]NOW SORTED - thanks Russ[/color]
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heres a [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/3PDT-True-Bypass-Foot-switch-IN-THE-UK-Guitar-effects_W0QQitemZ350251038851QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Guitar_Accessories?hash=item518c96b883&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14"]link to a current item[/url]
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[quote name='umph' post='619578' date='Oct 7 2009, 02:07 PM']cheapest i've found on ebay are around 6pounds for single ones, could you post a link to these please? will save me ordering them from the states.[/quote] it was a buyer called teamastra IIRC, he had the option to make an offer and I offered £20 for 5, I think postage was a couple of quid on top.
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[quote name='bottomfeed' post='618222' date='Oct 6 2009, 09:46 AM']I'm about as good with a soldering iron as a monkey is with a machine gun... bit 'hit or miss!'... or is it, 'point & spray!?' nice idea though, where would I get the case from? (....& the other bits too!) Thanks for the suggestions so far...... [/quote] 3PDT footswitches are around £4 from ebay, for all other parts there's farnell online, bobsbitbox on ebay or maplins if you're near one to save postage. If you wanted to add a blender, there was a circuit posted by Al Healey not so long ago IIRC.. Al?
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Fender Precision Bass 1965 / L Series / Olympic White
steve replied to pepone2401's topic in Gear Gallery
absolutely gorgeous, around about the same age as me, I wish I was in that good nick -
1980 ibanez blazer project *sold pending the ususal*
steve replied to mr pablo's topic in Basses For Sale
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are you any good with a soldering iron? the parts would cost around £10 - £15 and there's nothing to em, as you say. With a little bit more cash (around £2), you could add a blender........
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Pedalboard is now gone
steve replied to Finbar's topic in Accessories & Other Musically Related Items For Sale
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Pedalboard is now gone
steve replied to Finbar's topic in Accessories & Other Musically Related Items For Sale
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@ the op - I had an aerodyne, it had a lovely neck, the pups weren't particularly special, the prob for me was the lack of forearm contouring. It never sat right for me and was always uncomfortable so I eventually had to move it on. Shame, it looked great (red with no pickguard from ishibashi)
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the U components are ICs, each IC is a dual op amp, ie two op amps on one chip, hence U1-A and U1-B refer to op amp 'A' and op amp 'B' on chip 1
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Fender MIM Jazz bass (2001/2) sunburst with rosewood neck
steve replied to orangepeelneil's topic in Basses For Sale
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[quote name='umph' post='614815' date='Oct 2 2009, 01:56 PM']it's an inverting opamp. [url="http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/170415/STMICROELECTRONICS/HCF4049UBEY.html"]http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf...CF4049UBEY.html[/url][/quote] can you elaborate pls mate, the datasheet bears out my view I thought... from the datasheet[quote]It is an inverting Hex Buffer/Converter and feature logic level conversions using only one supply voltage (VDD)...... ......This device is intended for use as CMOS to DTL/TTL converters......[/quote] the chip drawing contains six logoc symbols for hex converters and the datasheet has a truth table, and there's no mention of op amps. I also read that the read llama was an innovative design in that it used what was essentially a digital IC for an analogue purpose.
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I thought someone had modified the design, - CD4049's have six single input line buffers in one chip, op amps have an inverting and non-inverting input.
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[quote name='umph' post='614742' date='Oct 2 2009, 01:06 PM']yeah and with all those spare opamp stages it leaves lots of oportunity for modding! such as adding a clean blend and a active tone stack![/quote] I've lost touch with this thread, have I missed something? I thought the llama was built from inverters and not op amps
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Quite a lot of Abba songs have really nice basslines, but the rest of the music :pukey smiley:
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thanks for the replies. I'll look into these properly when I have a little more time
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