ben4343

692

In case anyone is still interested... I took the amp (and PU) back to the UK and set it all up. Clicked it on, it sputtered a bit (capacitor related...?) and then purred into working absolutely fine. So I suppose it lives in the UK now 😅

Last I heard they were up and running. Them moving premises coincided with Tommy getting sick, but I think everything was back on track, a while ago at least. Ordering was a super easy process, so have no worries in that regard, general shipping situation not withstanding

Yeah, could be of course possible that the amp is dead... I am just hanging on to the chance that there is an obscure fix rather than the problem being simple but terminal! Thanks all for the various input!

I tried originally on the adaptor (the brick was more of a last ditch alternative!). Mostly, it doesn't work, but occasionally fades in and then out, with the power light remaining on 🤷‍♂️

But if it takes down to 100V fine, why does the amp then lack the minerals to output? I am still quite convinced the voltage here is lower (and some seem to agree 🤷‍♂️), and that this seems to negatively affect some gear. Anyone else have a TU-3? I just looked on the back of mine out of interest; apparently I should be using totally different PAs for 230V and 240V... Seems like Markbass aren't the only ones to recommend specific PAs for kit in different voltage regions.

I think you are right; pretty obvious now you say it... The brick will output 1000 mA on the 18V channel, but it looks like the Hotone needs 1.5A, so I am 500 mA shy. What's weird is that the Hotone PA says it will take 100-240V; maybe that's clap?

Thanks for the replies all. Seems my observations match up with some floated theories. I suppose that, given enough examples, sometimes a piece of equipment that is unusually more voltage demanding will come across a voltage that is on the low side, and just not work quite as expected. Shame. Any solutions to this, or do I just have to accept sometimes gear just won't work internationally? I work with a physicist and he wondered if the mismatched AC might be confusing a transformer somewhere. One final bit to coagulate the narrative; I have a power brick that works perfectly for my pedals, and has a couple of 18V outputs. The Hotone micro amp ostensibly runs off an 18V plug, but also fails to output (it still turns on just fine though...!) when powered by the brick. I was surprised at this, as I thought the brick might smooth everything out...

Thanks for the input all... I would be tempted to agree with a dodgy plug/unstable supply, but most gear (my Ashdown head for example, and my stereo amplifier, and my turntable, and my pedal power brick, and...) works just fine off the same outlets. The house is new, so dodgy power is not impossible but I would hope (!) unlikely. Is it possible that some kit is more sensitive to... something? than others? The electric razor for example sounds like I've flipped a NOS switch when I travel back to UK, in comparison to use here (across multiple homes, in multiple Norwegian 'counties').

Hi team. I am a Brit living in Norway, and after several years am still struggling with a weird phenomenon. Some of my (bought in Britain) electrical kit just doesn't work properly over here, whereas most works perfectly. For example: an electric razor barely turns over even when plugged in; a laptop would sort of charge but as soon the battery was empty would not take at all; and, pertinently to BC, one of my amps works fine but two not. It is infuriating - I have spoken to a decent sparky about it and they had no idea... The devil is in the details: - a Hotone 5W mini head thing (18V plug) turns on fine, and occasionally will deign to work, but usually is silent through both headphones and cab. It is like Output is fixed at zero. I can't guarantee it isn't dead, but as said it did work as recently as a month ago... - an Eden head (wtx260) would crackle and bubble and be super unstable. I think I killed it by trying, so got the power unit switched out back in the UK and it now works fine back there (haven't bothered bringing it back to Norway). Anyone come across this before?? Depending on sources there might be a 10V difference between Norway (220) and UK (230), could this play a role?? Please help out a new dad in need of a headphone amp who is sad his toys seem to be broken...

And the price, gee whizz... I always wanted one of the old ones but ended up getting the Vox version as it looked better on paper. Felt like it lacked the magic I was expecting though, I wonder if they have captured it with the mark ii...?

I would like to join the club please! I have had a RM MAG 420 since 2014, picked up with the matching 210 and 115 cabs. The cabs are fine rather than anything special (they are budget after all) and you can see I use a TKS 112 mostly now, but I haven't felt the need to replace the amp since first plugging it in. We all know the Ashdown sound; super solid, warm rock. Lovely stuff. The Shape sounds cool when I use it alone, but gets woolly in real life I find, so I lean on the EQ. I don't use the drive as I think it is a bit fizzy, but I think a smidge of Comp doesn't do any harm. Sub is fun I guess sometimes! I also think it takes pedals quite well too. Picture for proof - please forgive the guitar amp...

I have switchers from Vein Tap; they also make a bunch of pedals - https://www.vein-tap.com/ I have a beautiful boost from Faceless FX, but he loves to make a fuzz - http://facelessfx.co.uk/ Will keep thinking...

I have a Jasmine Boost from Faceless FX, though they tend to focus on (Tonebender based?) fuzzes. Can only find a FB link. Raygun FX have a pretty good pedal selection at affordable prices - I have (had?) a Sodadrive, it sounds fine https://fuzzboxes.co.uk/ Vein-Tap pedals - I use their switches, but they have a bunch of effects too https://www.vein-tap.com/ Hudson, Thorpy and DHA were the only others that sprang to mind...