SS73

With most pots there is an opening near the solder contacts that gives access straight to the pots track. Servisol is a good product that will sort a mildly scratchy Pot. For real stubborn ones you can try Isopropl alcohol, (its very pure so there should be no ill effects hoho ) Servisol will lubricate to a certain degree and Isopropl will not. But, both will dissolve any grease that lubricates the pot shaft and if there was a lot of grease to start with, it will thin this and spread this around the pot track, which is the last place you want it, so if a little dosen't work then its time to replace the pot. WD won't help. Sean. [quote name='Dave' post='318370' date='Oct 30 2008, 02:07 PM']Thanks ever so much for your suggestions/help, Musky, I really appreciate it! So much conflicting info on the net, I guess I shouldn't really be surprised. Some suggest WD40 is OK, others say it definitely should NOT be used. Some say you can clean the pot by simply spraying cleaner down the stem/shaft to get to the inner workings, while others say you definitely have to take it apart. Use compressed air, contact cleaner, oil/grease-free lubricant, the options/opinions are endless. Think I'll try to use common sense, try a few obvious things first, and delve deeper as required.[/quote]

Cool, let us know if you gig my side of the county. Cheers, Sean. [quote name='sdguitars' post='316682' date='Oct 28 2008, 01:27 PM']Sorry Sean, I should have cleared this earlier.... have recently discovered "The Reverend" who has taken up low-end rumblings. Thanks for your post, though![/quote]

Hi, just noticed your ad, what part of Glou's are you, as I'm near Leominster in Herefordshire. The distance could be a problem, but I kind of fit the bill for your influences and am a complete Andy Fraser fan love Cream. Mountain etc through to Rush, Yes n early Genesis. Cheers, Sean. [quote name='sdguitars' post='289638' date='Sep 23 2008, 06:33 AM']Hi there! Looking to form a weekend warrior-type classic rock band with covers/originals in the style of Hendrix/Cream/Mountain/Trower/Free and similar. I play guitar and having found an excellent drummer, am looking for a mature, competent bass player to close the circle for what a be and "serious but fun" band! Plenty of scope for lovely bluesy improvisation a la Jack Bruce (but no 20min guitar or drum solos, I promise!).[/quote]

[quote name='Marky L' post='275626' date='Sep 2 2008, 05:09 PM']Yeah, I've just been trawling through the awesome Rickenfaker section on the site.. and seen the beaut that joegarcia got his hands on. Also noted the fact that the Tokai is too pricey. Looks the part though It's that Ric sound that I want as well as the looks. Maybe it's project route time. But I do like the look of this original.. plenty of pics too. [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2000-RICKENBACKER-4003-bass-Jetglo-rare-BLACK-HARDWARE_W0QQitemZ130250660131QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item130250660131&_trkparms=72%3A984%7C39%3A1%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C240%3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2000-RICKENBACKER-40...id=p3286.c0.m14[/url][/quote] Sorry for the off topic, but, but whats with the string spacing!!!!!!!!!!!!..............never seen one that bad.

[quote name='bennifer' post='274784' date='Sep 1 2008, 05:44 PM']SS73 - that setup actually sounds pretty good on my AH200 gp7 head. Cheers![/quote] Cool thats great, I have used this rough setting pretty much since I bought the amp new in 1983! (its an AH150 GP7 n its never let me down ), and perhaps adding some more high's to suit diff rooms. I have heard that the pre shape switch will only put this ''sqashed M shape'' eq setting in anyway, so really by moving the eq sliders you are only enhancing this shape. [quote name='MuseMatt' post='274985' date='Sep 1 2008, 09:44 PM']Why hit the A string? I usually get the E string peaking more than the A...[/quote] My A tends to be more played I suppose, but its all down to individuals really, I should have said play hard allover until the gain peaks.

[quote name='MuseMatt' post='273836' date='Aug 31 2008, 05:12 PM']Try setting the EQ balance to Low and add some high in your EQ. Try shape 1/2 and see what comes out best. Even so, you could try more gain and less master. That did the trick for me, and I use the same gear![/quote] Wayne, Rayman, more gain is certainly where you need to start. Always set the eq sliders around the 0 line, don't be afraid to go below the line into db minus, this is where you will get the best tones. Once you have your EQ levels set for your sound, hit the A string hard until you get the red gain light blinking, now back the gain off 1 click and your gain is set.( my settings for the 4001 are from left to right +3, +6, +2, -3, 0, +2, 0,) they will change though from room to room). Cheers, Sean.

Here's just a few random points on Valves. Companys that made valves would have had different spec's, quality control, components made to higher standards and better machines, etc etc, so many differences were inc in each make, ie, thicker or thinner glass, welded internals or crimped internals, this all was reflected in the price, you get what you pay for. Not sure about the numbers, but diff Companys have their killer valve model, GEC KT88 for example was the best KT88. Or Mullard's ECC83 they all set the standard. Try some old english valves in your pre amp, if they are replacing chinese ones you will hear a difference. I have just paid £200 for 8 General Electric 6550 power valves, but this make is the only one to go in an SVT. Hope this helps, Sean. [quote name='benwhiteuk' post='263240' date='Aug 15 2008, 04:56 PM'] yeah re-valving can be properly expensive for valve amps, i know that much. Does anyone have [i]any[/i] insight into the reasons why valves sound different?...or any of the other questions?[/quote]

If anybody else has one for a reasonable price, I'm interested. Been talking with Ped but I think he wants to hang on to his. Also V8 too, '' Grab myself a bargain '' on one of those, most nice. Sean.