Hellzero

You'll have to use the USB B (To Computer) to use the MIDI, the other port (USB A) being for "flash" memory like any key available. I answered you. Santa. 😂

If you want to use two dedicated MIDI devices, as MIDI is an in/out protocol system, you'll need something like the CME that you mentioned with an USB B to A or C cable: https://www.thomann.co.uk/cme_h4midi_wc.htm You'll need to have 4 MIDI cables, 1 USB B to A or C cable and a power supply. Otherwise, there are simple USB to MIDI cables like this one: https://www.thomann.co.uk/cme_u2_midi_pro.htm But you'll need an USB B to A adapter as it's always been that stupid, like this one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/PRO-POWER-Adaptor-High-Speed-Converter/dp/B0839VHWVD I've used the Roland/Cakewalk device with great success, but it's USB powered: https://www.thomann.co.uk/roland_um_one_mkii.htm Mine is an old Cakewalk, which has become sticky over the years, and you can get it for postage fee, should you want it:

Lovely!

Don't rush, there are other possibilities like the Roland/Cakewalk MIDI to USB devices. I'll get back later as I have to leave right now.

Now that I finally got Tulpa's cd a few days ago, I can also say there's some 80's Lou Reed meeting the Feelies meeting the Smashing Pumpkins vibe in it and I really like it a lot (and I'm more into jazz and classical music these days), it's so refreshing and making me feel young again. 😱🤪😉😂 Congratulations to your kids @Kirky.

If you play mwah twice, does it become mwah mwah? Just asking for a friend.

That's a question I'm almost always asking myself when people are reviewing instruments or anything musical. Play the same thing each time, bloody hell, it's the only way to compare things.

This seems to be your preferred version (I love those toilet seat colours too) and you can change the bridge for a more modern one, but you won't have a through body string mounting if that's what you're looking for... Otherwise, Shuker can make you your dream Jazz Bass for, I think, a quite similar price, worth having a thought about it.

Makes me want to put my pristine Revox B291 turntable on, but after 15 years of silence, the capacitors must be a bit dry and the motor may start a fire... No need for a preamp as I did the Studer/Revox mod to turn the internal RIAA preamp on, which is a great plus. Itching a bit...

So am I.

For some reason, I always loved this tune and video...

Really liked his playing and singing. I discovered him in the late 80's with my first job as the car I was using back then had a cassette player with a Chris Rea album definitely locked in... And as I was driving this car 4 hours a day, I ended up really appreciating his music. Weird way to discover someone's talent, I know. May he rest in peace.

Careful Chris, you are demonstrating that the bridge has an influence on the tone, when the consensus here is more or less the opposite... What's next? Tonewood? 😱🤪

If you'd read the entire thread, which I doubt, I already gave a real world personal answer. That said if you want something straight out, I'd say that if you are a cheapskate, anything above £100 is going to sound very expensive to your ears, if you are so rich that money is never an issue, I'd say anything above £1.000.000 could be considered expensive. If you're an average John Doe, the limit would be around £2500, so basically above average monthly wages, which is £2633,5. But, as I already wrote, so it will avoid you to read the whole thread, anything expensive is something beyond your budget, so everyone will have a different answer. And, frankly, the argument of the gigging instrument is a bit dull as it's absolutely not the main point to consider. That said any mass produced instrument is, to me (but it's the point here), way too expensive, especially Fender-like instruments, which are basically two planks screwed together. Satisfied?

Anything over zero (0) as you'll assess its value by simply looking at it. If you can give it a go, you'll have to assess a lot of specifications before saying x is too expensive and it's always impossible to be objective as there are too many variables here, including personal taste and "wealth". You could also do the maths using the value of the material only without taking into account the added value of the craftsmanship, which again would be wrong. Putting it the way you propose is not a possible option as humans need a point of reference to give a value. Simply ask a non musician not interested in music the value of your instrument and you'll get a better answer, but get ready for a huge disappointment concerning what you consider expensive as it will become highly overpriced.

It's not the nearest equivalent, it's the other way to write it, just like in German, where any vowel with an umlaut (which is a totally German word) can be written this way. 😉

First, go there to find all data available for your turntable: https://www.vinylengine.com/turntable-database.php?make=Dual&mdl=CS+505&sort=2&ascdesc=ASC&search=search&drive=any&motor=any&control=any&auto=any&changer=any Then on the same website, you'll find the data available for your cartridge: https://www.vinylengine.com/cartridge_database.php?m=any&mod=DN165E&t=any&sort=2&Search=Search&sty=&ovlo=&ovhi=&can=&dclo=&dchi=&stid=&masslo=&masshi=&notes=&prlo=&prhi= Finally, buy a new stylus, like here: https://www.audioaffair.co.uk/ortofon-dn-165e-replacement-stylus

And this is the trick I was told to use when I started playing double bass. 😉

And he's also very well known for being a mega cheapskate, so he bought the cheapest he could find and that was that Höfner (correct spelling), the rest is history.

If you like like challenges, there are also some fretless headless neck through multiscale basses out there too... Nothing is indeed impossible.

I guess the question is more what is a too expensive bass than what is an expensive bass, because you have to put the work done and the hardware price in balance as well as the research, patent, trial and error, prototypes and so on. So, to me, any Fender is too expensive as it's basically 2 planks screwed together and sometimes really screwed (see what I did here). I've always preferred luthier made instruments than mass production ones, because you know who you are giving your money to and you can get (almost) exactly what you want after a very long dialogue. The limit depends on so many factors that the best answer has already been given wisely: Expensive meaning simply something you can't afford.

As it's a fiver, and as I mentioned, it's named XB 500. That said, it's a quite common bass and without a serial number or a distinctive sign, it will be very hard to prove ownership... ☹️

Yes it is a Washburn XB 500.

I truly think you didn't read the entire thread, and certainly not my crystal clear posts, or maybe you didn't understand what I was talking about regarding the OP's rant. So here it is even more clearly exposed: 1. OP buys a bass. 2. OP doesn't like it. 3. OP sends it back and asks for replacement. 4. OP gets it and find it's badly bookmatched. 5. OP asks for another replacement arguing that the top is badly mismatched, not correctly bookmatched. 6. Seller says OP has to pay the return fee, because there's no fault. 7. OP starts a rant here. 8. Everybody, but me starts ranting. 9. I explained why this is inadmissible to get a free return in this case. 10. Nobody reads the thread and the arguments, but push the rant further away. 11. My blood pressure is fine, but I really can't stand bad faith.