Hellzero

At the now close to infinite exponential learning curve of AI, if we, as human beings, don't react and regulate it, or even better stop it definitely, we'll all be history in less than 10 years or maybe way less... Remember that AI is not able to learn nor understand emotion or mood, so when it will decide to erase mankind, it will be done within seconds, but it looks like nobody noticed it.

Furthermore, thanks to the Brexit, the marketplace is even smaller, don't forget that very important point and most of the asking prices are, as said above, ridiculously high.

You still can rebias the output stage tubes to this specific load to avoid this, but nobody will do it, except some crazy techs. 😉 And yes I've seen some melted output transformers in my life, but way more blown speakers leading to this, both for mismatched impedance.

Much higher impedance loads, not putting an 8 Ohms cabinet on a 4 Ohms output transformer (OT) tap...

Cabinet "x" Ohms ≥ Amplifier "x" Ohms. Or is still too complicated @bagsieblue ?

And you are right. To keep it simple with (valve) amplifiers always use the amplifier's output (tap) matching the cabinet impedance, never use a lower impedance cabinet than the output impedance (tap) chosen on the amp, but you can use higher impedance cabinet than the impedance of the amplifier's output (tap), even if it can create some slight distorsion or slight out of phase sound, which you won't really notice and certainly not the audience. Clearer?

You still can rewire the cabinet itself to change the overall impedance.

And to add even more confusion to this, while speaker impedances are most often rated at 2, 4, 8, 16, 32 or higher Ohms loads (or even lower than 1 Ohm, and even with decimals), their real impedance will vary between 6Ω and 32Ω for an individual speaker, whatever impedance is labelled on the speaker or the cabinet. A lower impedance cabinet or speaker than the tap output labelled impedance will, in the end, see the wire itself burn because of the heat generated or break because of the higher extension of the cone(s) blowing the output transformer (see @agedhorse explanation above). On the other hand, if speaker impedance is really too high, say 32 Ohms on a 2 Ohms tap, the amplifier's power may not drive the speaker at all, but who would do that... Maybe we can also talk about of the form of wave generated by the output stage when driven too hard to add even more complexity to what originally was a simple question...

Definitely right @dmccombe7 ! 🤦🏻‍♂️

Running an 8 Ohms cabinet on a 4 or 2 Ohms output won't damage anything, it's the opposite that will blow out the output transformer... So it's absolutely not a non compatible cabinet, but a totally compatible one. 😉

But not the second one in Germany...

There are two ATK 800 in Germany: https://www.kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/ibanez-atk800-bass/2446215313-74-23511 https://www.kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/ibanez-atk800-wnf-premium-walnut-nur-ca-3-9kg-case-versand/2394701189-74-8 And one ATK 810 in Italy: https://www.mercatinomusicale.com/mm/a_ibanez-atk-810-premium_id7113474.html?stkn=R5X2aV2N9JY67Dwg

Yes!

This is Japanese, not Chinese... And it's simply translated, not masquerading. So because you don't like the look of the official Luminlay website you don't go any further. 🤦🏻‍♂️ I've ordered several times from them, it's fast, reliable and easy, and if you don't want to buy fake Luminlay products, better go there and buy directly from them. That said @dmccombe7, you were right...

Otherwise, you can buy the real deal by Luminlay, it's not that expensive at all (I bought a few over the years that have gone with the basses when I sold them): https://meisterworks.myshopify.com/en-gb/collections/luminlay-for-top-position/products/luminlay-ll-1

Your smartphone torch will do the job. I have and have had Luminlay's on many basses. 😉

I didn't know that porn shops were selling instruments, I'll need to check... And who is Jeddy Lee: a character from Star Wars?

The dead spot on the D on the G string is typical from Fender basses, that's the reason of the enlarged headstock of the second version of the Precision Bass to fight this dead spot, which, by the way, is simply linked to the resonant frequency of the whole instruments. By enlarging or removing the headstock and shaping the body (which is what classical luthiers do when tuning the woods they use, that said, just proving by the absurd that an electric instrument is before all an acoustic instrument) you can get rid of this dead spot by moving it to a place where it's not annoying (it will still be here, but you won't hear it anymore). Changing the mass of the tuners (lighter or heavier) or the bridge (again lighter or heavier) could also help. You can try the Fatfinger, a patented system bought by Fender and now sold by them as a sustain enhancer... https://www.fender.com/en-GB/accessories/miscellaneous/fatfinger-guitar-sustain-enhancer/0992180100.html

There is your answer, from the Boss Katana Bass page...

To make it easier, I have my own signature basses. 🤔🤪

So, I'm the only one removing flats...

You mean the one I bought for peanuts just before lunch was yours ? You could have put some new strings on it...

I had the two of them.

No fan in both versions.