Hellzero

Believe what you want, but it's strange that nobody believes me until they try my shielding : dead silent and you can let go of the hands of the strings, there's no buzz and no feedback buzz when touching them again... I explained my process to a desperate luthier upon recommendations of a mutual friend, and he called me an hour later, he was so excited that he said it was almost magical: absolutely no noise on a hollow body guitar with single coils that was a nightmare, and which his owner is now using widely on stage and in the studio without fearing anything buzzing. I really think telling people how to solve their problems easily is a complete waste of time: they need non working complex solutions... The infamous "You know, it's not that easy" is something I can't stand anymore.

I own one since it went out, and these are really good tiny amps for practicing or checking out if an instrument is working. I use mine with an external power bank and put some rubber feet under as it has a tendency to vibrate on a flat surface. The buzz noise is simply due to a non perfect shielding. I already explained how to make it, and in this case the continuity test is your enemy... as the problem is linked to antennas understanding.

Your build is just looking amazing. Say hello to Christoph Dolf from Tony from Belgium. 😉

It looks like the black wire near the S was soldered to the output jack (which is a stereo model, simply for cutting the battery) and is the ground to the jack

+ is positive (red wire) of the battery. - is negative (black wire) of the battery. G is ground, the other black wire going to the earth and coming from the cavity. The yellow wire goes to the output jack (check your second photo and follow the path). The free black wire from the circuit (near the S) should be disconnected or connected to a stereo jack which doesn't seem to be there... Make very clean solders!

Bought one too (Katana 110) a few weeks ago, and must confess that it's better sounding than my AER's... and way lighter. It has all I will ever need a d is powerful enough for what I do and play.

Good luck, Banzai in Germany is selling it: https://www.banzaimusic.com/cts-dimple-ss-250k-lin.html

Méo is making 30% on everything, but only tomorrow. Oops, it's not CoffeeChat.

Fingers crossed.

To me, the EBS Billy Sheehan pedals are too soft sounding, rounding all the growl of the pickups, but they suit his sound perfectly. And I love the way he's playing and his approach, but strangely I hate most of the bands he's been playing with... Go figure. 🤦🏻‍♂️

The Okko FX Motörbass might be worth checking out, especially as you're using a P-Bass humbucker pickup and not a single coil. The Harder (high mids) control will help you get that distorted sound you're after, which is typical from a single coil as @Cosmo Valdemar noticed.

Here it is:

Negative and ground cut, indeed the sound must lack some power... Let me a few minutes to give you the right wiring diagram.

A good shotgun in case some fools might think they would be welcome is more than enough to listen to the nature with my wife, and our cats or pets of the moment. Yes, I do hate human beings.

Great idea these aluminium position markers. Maybe worth putting some smaller ones on the treble side from the second octave on as it helps the in tune playing in the dusty end. Like this (it's a 28 positions):

As much as I love Jonas Hellborg and his playing (I have each and every album he recorded), this guy would put his signature on manure in no time as long as he gets money... So sad.

I would put as many pickups as possible. 🤪 Leo didn't get it right the first time on this one, for sure. 😈

Got it back yesterday, a very rare Peavey TL-Six (Tim Landers signature first edition, circa 1989). Amazing bass for sure.

Go 12" radius. 😉

Excellent job and all by hand, congratulations! If you ever need to wind more pickups, use an old turntable at the slowest speed, it works very well. Back in the day, I modified an old Lenco turntable as it had the 16 and 78 rpm speeds too and used the original counter weight system (without the arm, of course) to have a kind of automatic right pressure wire appliance. That said, I never heard of the leadwood (Combretum imberbe) and indeed it's a really heavy and hard wood, just a tiny bit softer than the African blackwood (Dalbergia melanoxylon) which is one of the hardest wood and really good sounding for a fretless. I had a De Gier fretless with this African blackwood fingerboard and it was really singing very easily and absolutely not taking the marks of the strings, ... and soooooooo dark! And for those interested, here is the top 10 of the heaviest (and hardest) woods: https://www.wood-database.com/top-ten-heaviest-woods/ Following this build with a lot of interest. PS: I'm not showing off when naming the woods in Latin, it's only because it's the easiest way to recognise the species.

The smallest valve combo turned all the way up will do the job as it was the idea. Last time I saw them live, the bass was simply oversaturated all the time. You can also make holes in the speaker(s) cone(s) the way Lemmy did.