Hellzero

Thanks @JapanAxe. I was about to answer and the LED is there so you can see that the capacitor is fully discharged. In a tube amp, the tensions are the most important, so with a multimeter and a capacitance meter (or an ESR that can manage high capacitance values and tensions) you can repair any amp. You have to know two things : how the tension flows and how the signal flows. That said if the amp is blowing fuses, I don't think a scope will be of any use... And if you use a scope, you'll need a signal generator too...

The perfect version would have been : ... et j'ai 100% d'évaluations positives pour chaque transaction. Je vous prie de m'excuser pour mon mauvais français. But that's very good your way, don't worry.

No hidden insults and that's crystal clear. 👌

Why not fitting it the old way on the car roof ? But with a modern touch : in a dedicated and insulated roof box.

It isheu foonnierheu zee ozer wayheu.

French is my mother tongue and I studied Latin and ancient Greek, so certainly better than any translator. 😉 Just hope that the translator didn't make it totally impossible to understand... 😎

Send me the link in private mail and I'll do the translation for you. I used to be a member there.

Then, make new clean solders on this output jack without blowing on them and re-screw the nut.

These little "toasters" are very good value for money and you can get one by Joyo U.K. directly : https://www.joyoaudio.co.uk/MA-10B-Bass-Guitar-Amplifier You can find them, strangely, cheaper by Thomann, but too often out of stock, and for the moment a nightmare to get in the U.K. They include everything needed for home practice. And it's (almost) the only one working also on batteries with a 5 inches "full range" speaker and a 10 Watts output power. Got one in the lounge to plug my, funnily, high end basses and it's making the job very well. Couriers don't always play football with parcels, they play hockey in winter. 😂

To me, the solders on the output barrel jack look suspicious (dry solders) and the nut needs to be re-screwed to the max. The shorting by a screw near the piezo output card could have been a possibility, but it's the grounding, so no. My advice is this : go to a friend or someone who knows electronics, he will fix the problem(s) faster than anyone remotely who can only be guessing.

Oops, getting old, I forgot the SRPP phase inverter...

@JapanAxe : the above mentioned Uncle Doug has a tutorial about phase inverters IIRC. 😉

And it's a no gain phase inverter too unlike the two other types of phase inverters : the long-tailed pair inverter and the paraphase inverter. They all have advantages and disadvantages, but the cathodyne one is certainly the most accurate phase inverter as you don't need to have totally paired triodes to work perfectly.

I didn't know that facts were politics.

Told ya @fretmeister 😉

Indeed, all modern 6L6 have a Glass Container. 😉

Terrific job ! 👌

It's a very good amp with indeed a Fender-like EQ, so settings interacting with each other in permanence. I sent mine back only because of the plane turbine fanning system (3 fans !!!), which is a big problem at low volume when playing in an acoustic band or for recording. If it's going to be a gig only amp, then go on, it's a terrific one. That said a Warwick LWA 1000 has the same output power, is ultra lightweight, has two completely independent channels and is dead silent for the same price... One fresh air in fan and two heated air out fans for the Hartke LH1000 :

Not in 20 years, it's happening right now @PaulWarning as Pro-Ject, one of the leading manufacturers of turntables who believed in the vinyl comeback, has started a new range of CD-Transports... for the same sale reasons as the previous medium. Worth reading the introduction comment : https://www.project-audio.com/en/product/cd-box-rs2-t/ This market based essentially on nostalgia for the oldest and discovery for the youngest is not a niche one at all...

Urm, urm, the location idea is already in place since a year or maybe 2... It's mandatory when putting an ad in the for sale section... It's just under the price and only old ads don't have it (check the in line date just under). That said, I can run the branch in Luxembourg as it's just 20 minutes away and I already have all the authorizations needed, but MY taxes are very high.

Fretted and fretless too. Ah yes, and defretted too. And refretted.

And me. Being 55 years old and having lived the birth of CD, I really can't stand vinyl, which, is, to me, sorry for those worshipping it, the worst medium ever. And I laugh a lot when I hear the analogue sounding argument... Scritch, scratch, riiiiip, shrook-shrook, shrook-shrook, shrook-shrook...

I've been into tube design and repairs for decades. The scope is not a vital tool to my own opinion, but a shorting big wire made with two clip-on pliers (one red and one black for polarity plugging), a 5 Watts resistor and a LED is a real vital tool. You know that tension may remain in the capacitors if not properly grounded when shut down, that's why shorting them before doing anything is really vital. And for those not knowing this, there's a negative tension in most tube amps (won't go into details) that you have to discharge from the capacitor(s) by putting the shorting wire (with a LED and resistor) the other way. Another vital device, but for the amp this time, is a loading resistor. 😉 That said, I owned the first reiusse made in the 90's bought new at the time (a hard to swallow pill) and it was a terrific combo. I would go for the B15NF version with, as you wrote, the two biasing possibilities and also a solid state rectifier possibility. It's a very nice project !