Hellzero

At the back.

It's the previous page, Anti... Do you think people bother to read anything than the title and sometimes what the OP has written first before answering?

Some fuse holders, especially the ones integrated in the power socket, have a place for a spare fuse, did you check that? That said, you should always have some spare fuses at hand. If it's only a blown fuse, it will be the more expensive one. 😉 As @Stub Mandrel said, inrush current or a huge surge can blow a fuse instantly...

And a way higher nut alongside a full length string retainer as he was playing with a bottleneck all the time (as mentioned earlier). Saw Morphine with Moondog Jr opening, with the two bands playing together a full encore: one of the best "rock" concerts I've ever attended. Mark Sandman was really gifted.

I think that the problem is not AI generated music as it can and must be considered music if it really is. The problem is the copyright of that music, because some lazy sods will pretend they own it, but this copyright is the property of AI as it's like ordering a concerto to a composer who will own the copyright of what's been ordered. To date, there's no law about this, but it's about time to legislate for all AI generated art.

Xotic are really excellent basses and having the possibility to try 4 fivers at the same place is a great bonus! Glad you found the one suiting your needs.

It's alive!

In this case, a Warwick Gnome i Pro V2 would be better as it's even a tad cheaper and more powerful.

Just in case the amp starts working again use the below mentioned Noctua fan with their tension adapter from 24 to 12 Volts. These are the most silent fan you'll find. https://noctua.at/en/na-vc1 https://noctua.at/en/nf-a6x15-flx Everything is available from Amazon. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Noctua-NA-VC1-Step-down-Converter-Applications/dp/B0C6TQCQP7/ https://www.amazon.co.uk/Noctua-NF-A6x15-FLX-Premium-60x15mm/dp/B0DJMHV4RP/

That said, I think that Green Day would have managed it with some white powder as it's a great pain killer, but maybe it's not a good idea... 😉🤔🤪

This, absolutely!

If fan noise is an issue, then buy a GR Bass One 800 as the there's a defeat function (studio mode) and the fan will only work if needed, which means after 2 or 3 hours... Price tag is higher, but it's a terrific amp: https://www.bassdirect.co.uk/product/grbass-one-800/ The lower wattage versions don't have this capability.

Totally agree with @Lozz196, but if you decide to go the MarkBass road, take the 58R series as everything, but the Speakon out and Power in, is on the front, which is very handy if not clever, and they are made in Italy again. I had this with a dedicated 58R cabinet and the tone was a pure delight: https://www.bassdirect.co.uk/product/markbass-little-mark-58r/ And the fan is quiet as I just saw your other post...

Simply because there are active basses (with higher output level and low impedance) and passive basses (with lower output and high impedance), and these two inputs are better adapted to each of them electronically speaking.

I would keep that barbie pink "line" as it's mixing in quite nicely.

And there is even one in the ads here:

By the way @Amando, check the Alembic basses as their "entry level" models resale at the price you're willing to pay and these have the thunderous low B you're looking for plus an extraordinary note definition and if you find a model with one or two Q filter(s), you'll be over the moon.

Maybe it's the 20th post in 2 forums when hitting the enter key exactly at the same exact precise moment. Only Peter Noone could do that, well done, mate.

What is amazing @proy900 is the stupid answer from Darkglass... How dare they answer that as almost everything is always fixable electronically speaking (yes, it's been my job at some time, among others), furthermore as it was the power module, it's even more stupid as a simple swap fixed this. That said I've repaired a lot of these power modules, but must be the only idiot still doing this as a swap is way faster and easier. All this confirms that I will NEVER buy any of their products as I never trusted the brand marketing...

Here are Bill Lawrence's explanations: https://www.wildepickups.com/pages/q-filter Worth reading, really.

If I remember correctly, it was Bill Lawrence's idea to start toying with an impedance changing switch. I need to check, but I'm quite sure I have some schematics somewhere... And I found the explanations from the guy himself, see below.

It's not a stroke if genius as double tracking has been used since the early days of multi tracking recording. Mick Karn's tone on studio records, for example, comes from the fact that he always doubled all his parts getting that superb chorus tone, because of the slight differences in tempo and note placement (hey we are not robots). In metal, the kick of the drum has been triggered on a second track (to allow MIDI tone manipulation) for decades to get that powerful tone you hear on most recordings.

Why don't you use radiused long cauls and a sharpie, you get ultra fast and accurate results all over the frets length (that some may call width) in a very few passes? Depending the starting mess for the levelling, I can also begin with some 300 to 400 grit self-adhesive sandpaper, but most of the time I commence with 600 grit going to 1200 grit then recrowning the frets and going up to 2000 grit before the polishing process.

I earned these almost the same day, 4 years ago, and then nothing, ... still don't know how the system really works and what's this for as there is also the ranking saying I'm in the top 1% of all members, but where is my envelope? 🤔🤪

Mine (yes I only have one) isn't too, as the others are sixers, but what's your point except pretending, again, that only you know and own the best...