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Hellzero

⭐Supporting Member⭐
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Everything posted by Hellzero

  1. You can't be humble, Russ. What drugs are you on today ? 🤣
  2. Newtone, Kalium and Labella will make you anything you want or need.
  3. Aren't Lovely and Antigua an antinomy...
  4. I had dozens of TRB's and BB's and the pickups are built this way, so two split coils side by side (or up and down according to the way you see it) : It can also be a stacked humbucker, the lower coil being a kind of dummy coil, but not the way a real dummy coil circuit is designed. You can check this using an EMG (or another brand) magnetic paper. Yamaha simply call it another way, exactly like Noguera does. A dummy coil will imply a specific circuit to cancel the hum and 3 identical coils for perfect hum-cancelling, the way Alembic or Leduc are doing it and the dummy coil is often visible in between the pickups. Never trust marketing wording...
  5. Nice and complete reply, but there's no such thing as a dummy coil on Yamaha basses. The pickups are just humbuckers. That said your idea of putting the high end preamp in all basses would simply mean the end of the high end segment of Yamaha basses. And you're completely right : upgrading the preamp on a TRB means playing with a router. 😉
  6. Check the logos first when there is one, then the lining, then the tolex, then the hardware. It's a tough job, I know, but it's musical archeology.
  7. Check this, it's a very good starting point : http://www.guitarhq.com/fender.html#cases
  8. @BadlandsGuitars : How can you advertised as original a bass on which the fingerboard and truss rod have been changed for absolutely non period correct parts ? And all I stated is correct. I wrote a mémoire about vintage instruments and know what I'm talking about as I've been helping people buying the right bass at the right price and also making expertise for insurance companies. The link you mention comes from a place where they often forget to mention important details. Somebody I know send them back a "vintage" bass after my expertise, because it wasn't what was described at all. Here is the Blue Book quote (a highly regarded and well-known quoting that you are using too, but not taking the correct grade into account) for a 1966 Fender Precision Bass. Yours is, according to its condition, around 30% grade, so my quote is definitely correct : Now, if you don't know how to accurately quote a vintage instrument, simply ask experts, but don't advertise it the way you do, or you'll lose all credibility. This may seem harsh and direct, but I'm simply fed up by those ads, and especially when it comes from a store as your part of the job is to make sure what you're selling is what you're advertising. And, when selling vintage instruments, you have to "dismantle" it to photograph each and every part attesting the authenticity. I know, it's a full time job. Below is the Blue Book grading system explained :
  9. Here is my selling ad, with two videos of Bruno Ramos (the original purchaser) and loads of informations and photos too :
  10. Difficult choice. TheCort has a neckthrough and is a single cut with real Hipshot Ultralite tuners (no neck diving) with Bartolini MkI pickups and preamp. The Yamaha has a bolt-on neck, Gotoh tuners with Yamaha pickups and preamp. Weight is the same, just as the price, except if you opt for the fingermarks magnet gloss black finish. Soundwise, the Cort is a bit fatter when the Yamaha will be a bit more precise. Necks are different too, a bit more round on the Cort and a bit faster on the Yamaha. It's only a question of personal taste. Can't you try them, it would be easier ?
  11. Low F# to high F. Easy to play the standard way, no problem at all. The neck is designed for this.
  12. Funny to see the reactions here, when it was in "Basses For Sale" section...
  13. Ok, here we go, apart from the refinish : the truss rod has been changed (hex screw here), the fretboard too and is ebony, when it was ordinary rosewood in 1966, the overhanging being the proof, and no clay dots, the pots are contemporary Japanese ones as is the capacitor, the ashtray is brand new. The pickups, bridge and saddles are not photographed... This is worth £1000 to £1500, not more, in this non original at all condition. Avoid this !!!
  14. I would change the strings first and have a perfect set up including pickups height. Strings and set up can dramatically change the sound of your bass for a little money. That said, the Entwistle pickups will almost cost you the same as a decent set of strings...
  15. Even before the lockdown, I've always loved these toilet seat colours. Do I need to get tested or am I already a suitable case for treatment ?
  16. Very good idea, Vic. That said playing again a bass you've listed is always dangerous.
  17. Just play fretless and with the right technique you can get a fretted sound very easily. I played the 3 systems available : the Neuser Fretless System, the Mike Sabre Dominique Di Piazza and the Eyb DDP. They all get that fretless sound with loads of mwah when perfectly set up, the NFS having the advantage of getting to a real fretted bass too by moving the bridge system. It's, as I already explained, simply a "flat" sitar bridge needing yearly maintenance (sanding the bridge to have it "flat" again).
  18. Just enter your serial number here and you'll get all the details needed :https://www.music-man.com/serial-number-database
  19. And this not a pseudo fretless... This is a full original 1979 Music Man Sting Ray (pre Ernie Ball) body fitted with a Status Graphite fretless neck à la Cutlass. Period. Take a photo of the preamp too to see which one it is (99% sure it's a non epoxied one, but sometimes you get surprises with 1979 Music Man basses) Also put one photo of the serial number (on the bridge).
  20. I have some fretless basses you don't need, if that can help. That said, go fretless only, you won't regret it. There's so much more of everything !
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