Hellzero

It's definitely a Travis Bean...

You won't be disappointed. Try the two positions of the side switch as it could also become a fuzzy overdrive. 😉

A friend of mine is in negotiation to buy that #729 Travis Bean TB2000...

There's a very nice one, with a beautiful flamed koa body, for sale in France since yesterday : https://www.zikinf.com/annonces/annonce-1898924

Buy by Music Store as they anticipated this situation a while ago and have "bought" DV247 which is their legal U.K. branch. This way, you'll be buying in the U.K. without the hassle... https://www.dv247.com/en_GB/GBP/history-of-dv247

I'm always astonished to read these kind of comments that are simply insulting, but having seen your location, I fully understand your superiority complex, don't worry. Sorry for derailing your thread @JapanAxe, but I really can't stand this stupid sectarianism.

From an sh*t seller too. So nothing wrong here.

The LED is in series with the resistor, of course. 😉

Thanks @JapanAxe. I was about to answer and the LED is there so you can see that the capacitor is fully discharged. In a tube amp, the tensions are the most important, so with a multimeter and a capacitance meter (or an ESR that can manage high capacitance values and tensions) you can repair any amp. You have to know two things : how the tension flows and how the signal flows. That said if the amp is blowing fuses, I don't think a scope will be of any use... And if you use a scope, you'll need a signal generator too...

The perfect version would have been : ... et j'ai 100% d'évaluations positives pour chaque transaction. Je vous prie de m'excuser pour mon mauvais français. But that's very good your way, don't worry.

No hidden insults and that's crystal clear. 👌

Why not fitting it the old way on the car roof ? But with a modern touch : in a dedicated and insulated roof box.

It isheu foonnierheu zee ozer wayheu.

French is my mother tongue and I studied Latin and ancient Greek, so certainly better than any translator. 😉 Just hope that the translator didn't make it totally impossible to understand... 😎

Send me the link in private mail and I'll do the translation for you. I used to be a member there.

Then, make new clean solders on this output jack without blowing on them and re-screw the nut.

These little "toasters" are very good value for money and you can get one by Joyo U.K. directly : https://www.joyoaudio.co.uk/MA-10B-Bass-Guitar-Amplifier You can find them, strangely, cheaper by Thomann, but too often out of stock, and for the moment a nightmare to get in the U.K. They include everything needed for home practice. And it's (almost) the only one working also on batteries with a 5 inches "full range" speaker and a 10 Watts output power. Got one in the lounge to plug my, funnily, high end basses and it's making the job very well. Couriers don't always play football with parcels, they play hockey in winter. 😂

To me, the solders on the output barrel jack look suspicious (dry solders) and the nut needs to be re-screwed to the max. The shorting by a screw near the piezo output card could have been a possibility, but it's the grounding, so no. My advice is this : go to a friend or someone who knows electronics, he will fix the problem(s) faster than anyone remotely who can only be guessing.

Oops, getting old, I forgot the SRPP phase inverter...

@JapanAxe : the above mentioned Uncle Doug has a tutorial about phase inverters IIRC. 😉

And it's a no gain phase inverter too unlike the two other types of phase inverters : the long-tailed pair inverter and the paraphase inverter. They all have advantages and disadvantages, but the cathodyne one is certainly the most accurate phase inverter as you don't need to have totally paired triodes to work perfectly.

I didn't know that facts were politics.

Told ya @fretmeister 😉