Hellzero

There is a bias in your system, it comes from the USA, where, for example, maple and walnut are local, but China has to import almost every wood they are using for manufacturing instruments, so the prices will be quite the same for maple or wenge, furthermore if they used wenge, it's because it was cheaper than the usual walnut for that skunk stripe as the politics of the Chinese factories is to always use what is the cheapest option. Check this supplier prices for a more accurate representation of the value of current woods used in luthiery and you'll see that wenge is a non expensive wood, in the lower range: https://luthierssupplies.co.uk/product-category/electric/electric-neck-blanks/through-neck-splices/bass-through-neck-splices/?orderby=price

Wenge is not an expensive wood at all...

That's the magic of Wenge.

On a record I used two Leduc basses: a fretless Masterpiece MP 628 SF and a fretted U-Basse 6 MM. Exactly these very two: When the CD was released, everyone listening to it complimented me for my fretless playing on all titles, ... when half of them were played on a fretted bass. So the opposite is also possible. 😉

You can do the same as this with an Allen wrench of 1.5mm (or whatever reference string height you use). Simply put the Allen wrench under the highest pitched (G or C) string of your bass and raise or lower the saddle until the action is at the desired height. Repeat this for all other strings and set the intonation. And then simply add a fourth of turn to each of the two height saddle screws on the next lower string, then half turn for the next one, then 3/4th of turn on the following one, then a full turn for the other and a full and a fourth turn for the B if you own a sixer bass: This will make exactly the same as this radius gauge at a deliriously low cost... I've been setting up all my basses this way since more than 3 decades. Adding 1/4th turn more than the previous ones simply perfectly raises the height according to the exact radius of your instrument's neck.

Put magnets instead as the lifting hole is already there.

A Stratocaster neck at the octave is 52mm wide and a Precision is 56mm wide, so according to the overlap I see on the photo, it will work for both with the progressive radius height.

Also check if the ring and tip are not reversed on your stereo jack (looks like a cheap model).

Unsolder that red wire for the moment as it's the power (tension) for the LED, so not really mandatory to check the circuit. Clean these solders as they have a lot of tin. 😉 And try again as the red LED should only turn on in active mode when wired correctly. If it's working without the LED shining as it's not powered, just take a multimeter and check where the power is located and that'll be it.

Why didn't you check the link I provided above with everything explained about the wiring of the preamp, because the red wire doesn't go there... It's fully documented with pictures and you also have the wiring diagram. Go and have a check, you are close to it.

The (hard to find) EMG single string pickups fitted this way on my Leduc EUB 6 called Moaï are working really good even with the bow (that I play badly, of course) and are height adjustable to fine tune the tone and output. There are also 6 RMC piezos in the bridge with a dedicated RMC preamp and the EMG summing preamp and both can be blended at will thanks to the twin volume/tone configuration. That said the low B bowed can destroy a poorly made speaker, but it's working really well as the sensing area is bigger... Just add a bit of piezos for crispness and you get a really realistic tone thanks to the patented floating Leduc top of the U-Basse adapted here. It was a six (according to Christophe Leduc) to seven (according to me as I factor in the year of discussion and ideas trials) years built.

And ...

I had one of these too, when they appeared over here in continental Europe, that I played on a gig on the same day I received it and also on further ones The funny thing is that I've been complemented by almost all the audience for my great tone with this very bass, but not with my other high end fretless, a Leduc MP 628 SF, which to my ears was and still sounds better, but the mwah on the HK was just insane... I guess that's what the audience loved. Sadly the HK was so heavy and very head diving that I sold it some time later, but I really loved that insane mwah. It's not pictured in my list as it was before I started to photograph each instrument getting in ... and out.

I quite like the rustic look of it and its history.

That's why I put the Amazon link...

Sounds good with a passive bass à la P-Bass, way too nasal for other basses and never try a fretless with it : all the cats will leave the neighbourhood. I had 3 or 4 over the years, including a brand new one when it was released, but always ended up selling them because of that nasal tone, and the weight too, especially nowadays.

Top notch resurrection, congratulations! I was a bit sceptical about the choice of the finish, but it looks very nice as it is, with that touch of class.

Still thinking about hitting the button, but have one last question: Is this price shipping included (to Belgium, for me and @BlueMoon ... if he's still interested)?

And don't forget the Kawai Aures 2 series where you get the same as the ATX-4 plus the option to hear your piano or whatever connected via Bluetooth to it through the very soundboard of the piano itself thanks to transducers exciting the said soundboard. The sound is quite impressive.

Unlined with the dots on the side at correct place (where the note would be).

Unlined with the dots on the side at correct place (where the note would be).

You know what, I'm really fed up by this forum where people post without reading and start getting aggressive when you simply make them noticing it.

The OP already owns a double bass @Stub Mandrel. 😉