Hellzero

Is it so hard to say thank you ?

Not me, as this is basically a 5 strings transformed into a 6 strings because of the demand in those days. These were manufactured without knowing what exactly a 6 strings bass was. I would buy a 4 or a 5 strings Aria Pro II, but never a sixer from this period.

That said I already mentioned all values in my first answer.

Good cap values would be 22 nF (nanofarads) for the 250 KOhms and 47 nF for the 500 KOhms, but you can try a 22 nF if you need extra sparkle for the bridge pickup. Did you say it ? The magic word...

Where are you located ? Looks like Portugal. Those old Aria Pro II aren't that bad, but you can get a better bass for that money. Way under 500 Euros is this incredible Harley Benton BZ-6000 NT (tried the 7 strings version) : https://www.thomann.de/pt/harley_benton_bz_6000_nt.htm With the spare money, you can buy some spare strings like these excellent D'Addario's : https://www.thomann.de/pt/daddario_exl1706_regular_light.htm And even a decent case : https://www.thomann.de/pt/gator_foam_case_bass.htm Just a bit more, like this ESP-LTD-B-206SM-NATURAL-SATIN, which is a real good bass for the money (I had one) : https://www.thomann.de/pt/espltd_b206.htm

Did you say it ? So even better than my hand drawing, the DiMarzio wiring diagram simply found on Best Bass Gear : https://docs.google.com/gview?embedded=true&url=https://www.bestbassgear.com/wiring-diagrams/2017/pj_1v1panv2t.pdf Try to learn how to use the internet, no ?

Looks like a real custom shop design ... after a booze party.

No problem at all. You simply have to route the signal to the LIN tone pots with the values you want for resistors (250 KOhms + 500 KOhms) and the capacitors (22 nF + 47 nF) then go to the balance (2 x 500 KOhms LOG as they are humbuckers) and then the master volume (500 KOhms LOG). Easy, no ? Ok, I'll draw you a wiring diagram later if you repeat 7 times before your mirror "Slim face".

He surely was talking about himself.

The pleasure is mine. Cheers.

If you use the schematic I linked, you still can have both pickups controlled by their own volumes in parallel or series, which would be more useful than the standard series switching transforming your 2 pickups in a single humbucker with coils way too far from each other, thus creating lots of out of phase signal. That said, if you don't try it, you will never know the sound it can produce and maybe never know that you like it. A push-pull or push-push isn't that big money to not give it a try.

Download this and go to page 319, you have all explanations in German, but the schematics are speaking by themselves : http://www.ak-line.com/medium/Bassschaltungen.pdf

I've checked the specs, your bass is supposed to be passive with single coil pickups, so the only series possibility is to put both pickups in series, which is absolutely useless. If you still want to do it, then the push-pull should be a logarithmic 250 KOhms.

It's a general guide for any passive pickup.

He is not that bad. At least he is trying to improve his playing with ... Carol Kaye, a real pick master.

I've done both types of shielding (aluminum or copper) and there is no difference, except that copper is easier to put in place as aluminum has the bad habit to wrinkle very easily. Don't forget to solder an earth point on your shielding and, if you shield the pickup(s) cavity(ies), to earth them at the same point, which is something almost everybody forgets.

A really good bass at a fair price : https://www.bassic.de/kleinanzeigen/peavey-dyna-bass.14039/

My new one, a De Gier Origin Deluxe Fretless 6 originally made for Matze Bangert in 2009, another great player from Sander :

In fact, it's the opposite, Auslander has a 5 strings version of the Anthony Jackson Presentation II model, which is by definition a 6 strings contrabass (sic) guitar. That said, @Auslander we are still waiting for some extra pictures.