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Hellzero

⭐Supporting Member⭐
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Everything posted by Hellzero

  1. Pour quelqu'un qui ne le parle pas, c'est fort bien dit. 😉 I think I'll have to translate it in English.
  2. Faites chier la vache !
  3. Nobody blinking here : This is this, where you can see my ugly face, and it's not short at all as it's a full 3/4 EUB : http://leduc.fr/index.php/series-l/contrebasse-de-la-serie-l
  4. There it is :
  5. As promised, here is my mémoire about the subject, written in French and published in 2001. Hope some of you will enjoy it. The link : https://drive.google.com/open?id=1MH6uXdr4PAOTlt9h-vh1aVaeeYCTSfPj
  6. If you understand French, I wrote a mémoire some 15 to 20 years ago about the origins of electric basses and guitars up to 1965. It was an event day around lutherie and I also made a presentation of the main usual basses and their respective sound, and also explained how to have the real sound of your instrument with any amp. I can create a topic and put a link to the pdf.
  7. I used to run my own (amp and electronics) repair shop years ago. When I had that issue on a Glockenklang I bought new and which was dead quiet in the store, I first thought as a repairer that during the car trunk transport a solder had "broken", then I started to think about what could generate such a noise, and knowing that these PLC items and the so called digital power supplies are huge mains polluters, I unplugged the one I had nearby (around one meter away and just on the next socket) : the amp became dead quiet again ! No, an effect loop unused for years will "only" cut the signal alternatively or totally, not making that noise. Go the easy path first and unplug everything nearby and if the noise disappear, plug back each one until the noise comes back, then you'll find the culprit. If not go the dry solder path, which is an easy but long fix : renew all solders. And beware of humidity which can act the sameway or overheated bakelite which becames conductive...
  8. Nice cats, shoes, fingers and basses. 😉
  9. Looks like a Skjold, am I wrong ?
  10. Can we get a picture of the output jack location ?
  11. Do you have any PLC emitter/receiver nearby ? Unplug it, the noise will disappear.
  12. Or this, exactly what you're looking for :
  13. If you can try this, go on :
  14. There is this solution :
  15. As I wrote to Chris (Ped), you don't have to ask the permission for my pictures, just use them as he already did twice. You can pick some there, these are the last ones intended for starting some posts : https://drive.google.com/open?id=1NjL6loyh7hMBO3Da5SR77El-tmFj4mcQ https://drive.google.com/open?id=1NZip3rB242El7uBFWS6LQM6oUaLwPlyM Or here in these two ads : https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/322096-berne-harpobasse-4-with-peg-stand-original-soft-case and-external-schertler-stat-pre -huge-price-drop/ https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/328728-esh-impact-6 with-bassculture-pickups haz-labs-smithfodera-clone-preamp-schaller-2000-bridge-and-hipshot-licensed-tuners/
  16. That said, the good old Sidol works perfectly for any type of metal, I even used it to polish the Delta metal of my Vigier fretless board with a mirror shining effect. And it's really cheap, I still have a 50's yellow metal can with the coumpound still working !?! Here by Amazon, but should be found anywhere : https://www.amazon.co.uk/Henkel-ml-150-Sidol-150-ml/dp/B008BGYSUI/ref=sr_1_2_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1534231842&sr=8-2&keywords=Sidol
  17. The best automotive product and all kind of polishes are Meguiar's : https://www.meguiars.com
  18. Thinning down the herd, so selling the basses I don't use. FOR SALE OR (PARTIAL) TRADE BASED ON THE NEW RETAIL PRICE (€2000 EUROS) : Quite rare ESH Impact 6 with new Bassculture pickups, new Haz Labs Smith/Fodera Clone preamp, new Schaller 2000 bridge and new Hipshot Licensed tuners. The specifications : Body : mahogany Neck : bolt-on 5 pieces of European hard rock maple with 2 stripes of ebony Fretboard : European hard rock maple Headstock : ash veneer Tuners : Hipshot Licensed Frets : 24 Leduc sweet profile Trussrod : 1 fully working Bridge : Schaller 2000 Pickups : 2 Bassculture humbuckers wired in parallel with birdseyes maple covers (made to measure for me by Christoph Dolf in July 2018) Preamp : Haz Labs Smith/Fodera Clone (18 Volts) with volume, blend, mids (800 Hz for that slap tone you are searching for years), stacked bass and treble Strings spacing at bridge : 17 mm Strings spacing at maple nut : 8,5 mm Action at 12th fret : from 1,5 mm under the C to 2 mm under the B Scale : 34 inches Finish : satin including fretboard à la Fender Weight : 5 kilos Case : Gewa Bass Case ABS Premium (Hiscox like) Year : 2005 (The last one made in Trier, ordered by a friend of mine) Strings : LaBella Super Steps SS45-CB (29-128) Todays price for a "similar" bass as Esh don't make 6 strings basses anymore : €2000 Euros ! The bass has been fully revised and set up last year by Christophe LEDUC who put some new frets and made his differential frets dressing, so it's ready for the next 20 years. Non smoking environment, as usual. Asking price is £999 GBP due to the rarity and very good condition of this bass. The upgrades made have turned this original early years Esh bass into a great sounding all maple neck bass (no sound compression, which is quite rare for this type of neck, due to the perfect fretting), very versatile thanks to the pickups and the terrific 3 bands preamp (beware as there is a gain control inside turning anti clockwise and there can be loads of gain). I'm the second owner of this bass and have made all the upgrades as it was deserving it. Some links : http://esh-bass.com/ http://www.labella.com/products/ss45-b-super-steps-5-string-standard-45-128/ https://www.bassculture.de/ The pictures to see the real condition (under different lights), which shows only some little wear with a few dings and scratches, a mark at the rear of the neck, some scratches on the back plate, one neck screw not routed deep enough and one trace of paint at the heel of the neck, all in all nothing serious :
  19. I use an AER BassCube, I don't think there's something better even for electric bass, but it's very very expensive and too heavy for my broken back (25 kilos). I'm waiting for this GSS 06B400 combo (7,5 kilos complete) to be delivered : http://www.guitarsoundsystems.com/catalog_gss-bass-and-upright-bass-combos.htm Cheap and according to all I've heard and read, quite impressive for both double bass, EUB and electric bass and there are plenty of add-on cabinets available... To be continued.
  20. Read 2 posts earlier. I would go the PA path for all the band and keep your actual combo used at stage volume and if you don't hear what you are all playing, don't play louder, do the opposite. Always start with the drummer playing first, then add your bass to create a clear and audible mix, then the guitar(s), the keyboard(s) and the vocal(s) and never try to compete, but to complement the frequencies of all instruments. Doing this way, you'll be amazed how low you'll be playing and easily heard. It's all about compromise and ego.
  21. Strangely, one thing that nobody mentioned is the fact that low frequencies will be heard far away when high frequencies will be very closer. It's the main problem when using your own amp to spread your sound all around the venue. You won't hear yourself playing when everybody in the room will hear an ugly muddy bass sound... If you want to hear yourself on stage, use your speaker(s) at the height of your ears or slightly below and decoupled from the ground, because of the bass effect. To hear yourself, you only need to have a mid sound, which is the opposite of most EQ's I've seen on stage... As I told it earlier and as @Phil Starr clearly mentioned it, the increase in power referring to Watts is almost negligible, in fact to really double the power of a 200 Watts amp, you'll need to have around 10 times the power to double it... Impressive, no ? And yes, you'll have the maximum power with the 4x10 + 2x10 in 8 Ohms each, which means 4 Ohms in parallel.
  22. That's it, higher action for better tone. Now my right hand index and major fingers have nice blisters... 🤗 😌 😠
  23. According to my friend Christophe Leduc (THE French luthier), dots in the fretted position on early fretless basses is very common. The only non arguable explanation is that putting dots in the fretted position didn't need to interfere in the "automated" process of manufacturers. So if there were dots on the neck they would be in wrong position. That said, I owned a very early Fender Precision bass that had this issue. After all, if you play fretless, you play with your ears, not your eyes is what everybody was thinking at the time, so no dots or in the wrong position doesn't matter. Now, you've got the answer.
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