Hellzero

To me this is the ugliest colour ever, it's like going to a funeral home, it doesn't make me feel good at all. ☹️

I really the first fretless tone on each example (A1, B1 & C1) @Linus27. The #2 is too hollow sounding for my taste and #3 is quite similar with more upper mids. So what are the strings on this #1 bass please?

This is a CNC machined bass and it's an amazing instrument!

The Thomastik Flatwounds will be a major improvement over the dull monel strings as they are flatwounds that sound more opened than anything else in this category, but if you're looking for harmonics, you'll have to go roundwounds. If you have a bit of patience, as they need to break in and it takes some time, try the Rotosound's RS66LD, they have all you're after. That said the Labella White Nylon's are the best nylon strings for fretless as they don't sound plastic like all the other proposals in the nylon range (and they are roundwound inside the nylon). You could also try the Elixir nickel plated and of course coated as they won't mark the fingerboard and sound excellent on fretless basses. That said start unplugged with the strings and once you've found what you like, let the thunder get alive.

Ground the shielding, the problem will be solved. It's a more than common issue with badly made shieldings.

Is the copper shielding grounded?

I almost had a heart attack. Is there a shīt "music" comp going on?

What's this utter shīt!

As Vigier stopped producing Status started making some 89/11 necks... 🤦🏻‍♂️

He quoted me too... 😉

Hi @CiciBass, glad to have you here and, of course, welcome. 😊 PS: Could you tell Nathan to stop turning all knobs he sees in all possible positions just for the sake of turning them? 😉😂

Deaf and blind people...

To me the best one available in brass or aluminium. With a photo, it speaks for itself:

Nope, you're right it's also powered cabinet as well, but they are not really available at the moment, so I guess nobody will have tried them or even seen them in the "flesh". But they should be very interesting indeed.

Tune also had a twin preamp configuration in some of its high end models.

The Richter MX-2(L or S) is way better than the Noll @itu. 😉

GR Bass doesn't make any powered cab... I own a GR Bass AeroTech Full Carbon Combo 800 (8.2 kilos for 800 Watts at 4 Ohms and can even go down to 2.7 Ohms) and a GR Bass AeroTech Full Carbon 112+ Cabinet (6.3 kilos for 450 Watts at 8 ohms) and it's a back saver. You won't find anything lighter and so powerful right now.

Urm, urm, this is exactly the same! 😉

https://pcjcustomguitars.co.uk/9-pin-jack-socket/

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phenol_formaldehyde_resin Check the trade names section if you want to go faster. Bakelite was confirmed by Christophe Leduc himself who knows these synthetic materials very well being a graduated architect (in the mid 70's), before being a master luthier.

This is exactly how the MTD-Bartolini preamp is working and, to me, the only one on the market, but you can't buy it as its only made for Mike Tobias.

Just a slight correction @Waddo Soqable: on the aluminium neck Kramer basses (and guitars) it's bakelite not ebonol. That said, the mwah comes from the hardness of the fingerboard coupled to the close to no relief of the neck. So, the harder the fingerboard and the straighter the neck, the more mwah you get. I tried almost everything on fretless basses and my favourites are in order of preference: 1. Brazilian rosewood (Dalbergia nigra) for its added low mids and singing highs. 2. Stainless steel or delta metal for their integrity and evenness, and no it's not zingy at all, it's in between Brazilian rosewood and Macassar ebony tone wise. 3. Macassar ebony (Diospyros celebica) for its faster attack. 4. Mozambican ebony (Dalbergia melanoxylon) for its over the top mwah. 5. Pau Ferro (Machaerium scleroxylon) for its rich and fat tone. I really don't like maple nor ebonol or synthetic fingerboards, because they sound sterile to my ears.