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Everything posted by Hellzero
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Sold Darren my BassLab L-Bow V, ultra fast payment, great communication, super friendly person. Highly recommend BassChatter. Enjoy your new bass, mate.
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In fact, the USB TO HOST must also support the audio back, so the device should have an integrated audio interface, which the Kawai ES series doesn't support, but, for instance, the Roland FP-30X does have this function, as well as all upper range models, not sure if the FP-10 has it.
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Electronics / USB power issues - can someone help?
Hellzero replied to carlsim's topic in Repairs and Technical
Furthermore, digital devices are highly prone to voltage variation (think logic gates), that's why many CD players have become faulty over the years, as a simple capacitance variation can have a huge impact on the circuit making it work incorrectly or not at all. -
Sold a DIY Stingray preamp to Chris. All went smooth and easy. A++++++++ as they say elsewhere.
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The string spacing IS the distance between the strings and here too.
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There is around 2 mm of scope, just like on Hipshots and equivalent. I had loads of basses with this bridge.
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You could try a hub like this one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Adapter-Headphone-Control-Charging-Earphone-6-in1-USB-c-hub-Space-Gray/dp/B08LQ3HF9N/ It's the one I'm using, but there are others...
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Any material will have a dead spot as it has a resonant frequency, for wood it's really audible around the D2 and it's upper harmonics, and if you add more mass to the headstock you'll move it between two notes, that's the idea. Carbon or composite designed instruments are the less prone to audible dead spot: There will be one as it's inevitable, but it will be at very high frequencies.
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For those wanting to play Merry Christmas Mr. Lawrence, don't use the Trinity Grade 7 score, as it's in the wrong key (Db when the original is in Ab, furthermore there is no pedal and most of the opening chords are wrong, "Europeanised and simplified", and I stopped there...), but buy the official score here instead: https://score-en.sitesakamoto.com/products/merry_christmas_mr_lawrence_piano_solo
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1982 Fender Precision Bass Special Walnut. Can you take it to the bridge?
Hellzero replied to ET777's topic in Bass Guitars
My bad, I need to reformulate my post correctly. -
1982 Fender Precision Bass Special Walnut. Can you take it to the bridge?
Hellzero replied to ET777's topic in Bass Guitars
This one? -
1982 Fender Precision Bass Special Walnut. Can you take it to the bridge?
Hellzero replied to ET777's topic in Bass Guitars
I guess you mean it must have the "regular" high mass one, but it was also an add-on. -
The colour looks like a faded Daphne Blue, which is my favourite Fender/Dupont colour. 😍 That said, the dead spot is not inherent to the 34 inches scale, but to the bass, and here more precisely the neck construction, which is why Leo Fender enlarged the headstock on the new 1957 Precision Bass, but it didn't totally work, even if it was a huge improvement. The dead spot is the frequency resonance of the whole assembly, and even a Steinway grand piano has one around the A6, cleverly moved a very few comas higher or lower depending on the master crafter, but you can still hear it...
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1982 Fender Precision Bass Special Walnut. Can you take it to the bridge?
Hellzero replied to ET777's topic in Bass Guitars
As @SurroundedByManatees mentioned, the bridge was not factory fitted, but is an add-on, I remember owning a set of original Fender brass knobs still in their packaging that I gave to a friend needing them and they were so heavy!?! You now have to search for the original bridge which is the one not fitted (so the packed one) on this fully original 1982 (aka Dan Smith era) Fender Precision Bass Special and you can also try to find the original ashtrays while you're at it.. If you look at the image above, you'll understand that the two outer holes on your bridge were meant to align with the bridge cover holes. 😉 Just in case you want to read the Fender ad provided, again, by @SurroundedByManatees, here it is: My main question is: How much does the whole bass weigh as, with all that brass, it must quite heavy? I guess around 5 kilos or even more... -
1982 Fender Precision Bass Special Walnut. Can you take it to the bridge?
Hellzero replied to ET777's topic in Bass Guitars
A very rare find indeed, congratulations! -
Playing with these "Real Books" is an excellent way to learn the songs instead of using a score, it's what I've been doing for so many years. A bit of an accident (in fact 5, if you look at the key 🤦🏻 ) as it was requested by my wife... I'm learning a non Christmas tune bearing a Christmas title and I love it. Merry Christmas Mr. Lawrence by Ryūichi Sakamoto aka Forbidden Colours by David Sylvian. In fact, I was a bit fed up by classical musical scores these days, especially Moonlight Sonata, and my wife said, you could try to play Forbidden Colours. Being a David Sylvan fan, I said why not, so listened to the last piano solo instrumental version available on YouTube with Ryūichi Sakamoto himself playing the piano (one year before he died, his playing was so fluid and emotional), bought the official score from the official website and ... I'm having so much fun. Even my tutor was delighted by the tortured Japanese sounding chords and great melody (melodies in fact) that she's also learning it. Sorry for derailing your thread...
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In fact, it all depends on what ergonomics you're after which will be highly different if you play sitting or standing, offering the best for both positions is the challenge. Having owned and played close 1000 different basses, I can tell you that this challenge is still up to date. For the sitting position, the Human Base ClassX is close to perfection as the body is carved for this purpose, putting the bass at the right position instantly. That said, as @Kiwi mentioned, the Strandberg design is quite effective too, if you put the bass on your right thigh using the closest to the bridge position. Also remember that headless basses are often more ergonomics as the tuners and the headstock are anti-ergonomics... For the standing position, I think the Leduc and Le Fay basses are certainly amongst the most ergonomics basses and quite right for the sitting position.
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@bass_dinger, you checked the best pianos in the sub £600 category, but you didn't try the last contender, the Casio PS-X1100, which is worth a try as Casio is not a cheapy maker anymore. Check this video, or the links in the links (yes, the first link opens the shop ad where you can find all the details and the full review link down under) in the description for more in depth reviews. PS: He always speaks in Canadian dollars, which makes a huge difference. 😉
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My "studio" computer is a Minisforum AI X1 Pro Windows 11 Pro based with 96 Gb of DDR5 5600 RAM (yes 96, it's not a mistake) and two 2 Tb SSDs (M.2 2280 PCIe4.0) with an AMD Ryzen™ AI 9 HX 370 CPU, so a super powerful PC, competing with the most powerful Macs, running any big sampling library super easily. I'm using a Windows based PC, because I bought so many softwares under Windows that it would have cost a small fortune to migrate to an Apple environment and I've never been a fan of their planned obsolescence. I also have an iPad Air 13 M3 (because Android tablets really suck) which is working flawlessly with Pianoteq 9 as the app was designed for it and as it is a modelling technology, not sampling, it is very light on RAM, ROM and CPU usage. And I'm using Newzik for the scores tweaking and reading, as, as opposed to forScore, it works in any environment without any issue thanks to a clever approach. PS: My soundcard is an old Steinberg UR-RT2 with really low latency.
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Put some real lubricant grease, the Chapstick is maybe good for lips, but will become dry very soon on a bass... You could have tried butter instead for the same (non) effect. Putting some good ol' vaseline will work better and remain lubricant for years. So you're good to start again.
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You are quite right, but C is more commonly labelled "string spacing". Beware that these Gotoh 206 (aka Pro) bridges are made out of a kind of fragile zamac alloy, so don't overtighten the screws, or it will break. So first, slightly unscrew the A ... screw (again don't unscrew it too much or it will come out and you'll have to remove the bridge to put it back in place as the nut underneath is a moving part...), adjust your intonation (height with B and spacing with C, if needed) with the usual screw at the back of bridge. Then tighten A again, that's it. There was a thread here a few years ago:
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You should try to find a way to play the 3 of them, at the same place would be a great plus, but I think this will be very hard... Online videos offer a good way to have a rough idea, but the best is to try them on your own. If you take a Mac with you each time you rehearse and gig, there's a fourth option: A Studiologic SL 73 Mk2 or a Numa X Piano 73 (quite redundant as you'll have everything almost twice,see below) coupled to Pianoteq 9 (choose the version for your needs) and Organteq 9 if you need pipe organ sounds (sadly not yet available for iPad), all that will be under your £2k limit, even with the full bundle, excellently sounding and way more versatile. Check these links: https://www.modartt.com/pianoteq_overview https://www.modartt.com/organteq_overview
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To answer your question, there are some other Steinway pianos in the Numa Player, the Steinway D is a paid option and is far better than the free ones delivered with the app. I didn't say that the keybed was the same for all Nord and Studiologic, but all coming from Fatar with different models according to the series, just like you mentioned. I love the Steinway Model O, it's a superb grand piano. Concerning the action, here are my thoughts. I had a Studiologic Numa Nero (TP/40 Wood) before the SL88 GT Mk2 and there's are some improvements (triple sensors and double escapement) with the TP/400 Wood, it's really close to a grand piano action wise, at least the ones I had the opportunity to play when I was learning it in a school. I also had a Casio GP-510BP with a Bechstein grand piano keybed and I find that the TP/400 Wood is better, especially the escapement, that was too light on the Bechstein/Casio. That said, I now own a Casio AP-750 and, even if the keybed is still from Bechstein, I find it lighter, more like an upright piano, but the pedals response is far better, just like the new sampling or is it because of the new amplification, but for a real grand piano, the SL88 GT Mk2 is the best to me and superior to the Kawai Responsive Hammer II that I really hated (I sent it back, on the next day, the ES 920 that I just bought for that reason) or the Roland PHA-50. The keybed of the Kawai VPC1 (RM3 Grand II) didn't convince me. I would like to try the Kawai Millennium III Hybrid keybed of the Novus series though...
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And remember that Studiologic and Nord share the same keybed: Fatar (same company as Studiologic).
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As I own the controller version of it (SL88 GT Mk2) with their Numa Player, I can confirm that the Steinway D is quite decent (very similar to the XLN Addictive Keys Studio Grand), but certainly not up to the level of the VI Labs Modern D or the VSL Synchron (or Studio) Concert D-274 or VSL Studio Concert D 1887 (love this one) or Modarrt Pianoteq 9 Steinway Model D New York and Hamburg, for instance (yes, I do have the full bundles from each company... 🤦🏻🤪😉 ). I can also confirm that there are some very good organs with the Numa Player. Check this, I think the guy has tried everything on the Numa X 73: That said, a Numa X Piano 73 or 88 or GT or the MIDI controller version (SL Mk2 73 or 88 or GT), Modarrt Pianoteq 9 and an iPad will give you all the sounds needed and way more, plus an excellent integrated soundcard with ultra low latency (Numa Piano X or SL Mk2), so no need for an external soundcard.
