Hellzero

Hi Gareth, I've been using the exposed cores models in stainless steel and nickel. The stainless steel were very similar to the LaBella Super Steps, just a bit softer to the touch and without the extra overtones you sometimes get with the badly made exposed cores strings (too long exposed core is what is generating these overtones or extra out of tune harmonics). It's something that is happening very often with the Super Steps and even the Fodera Anthony Jackson strings !?! But the nickel exposed cores were, to me, even better on all aspects. Smoother and better sounding, more even and consistent. Both types lasted longer too with that piano like tone typical of these strings. That said, even if I live in continental Europe, they are not cheap at all. They are top notch quality and there is a price to pay for this.

Very nice indeed Mustapha, but I can't see it in the "For sale" section yet. Is there a problem ? Are you keeping it ? 😇

Don't listen to what I tell is my advice.

Nick ? Or is it too easy ?

Sad loss indeed, a great drummer for sure, never showing off...

Try finding a real luthier with electronics knowledge : http://ariabasses.blogspot.com/2010/11/aria-pro-ii-sb-1000-wiring-schematics.html?m=1 It's not a complicated preamp at all...

Indeed more B+ and way less current absorbed at starting by the valve rectifier (and loads of them, especially original vintage ones, are often faulty). I've had so many fuses blown by these valve rectifiers that the first thing I ever did was replace them by an SS one and the problem was solved forever. Really worth giving it a try. 😉

There's this Pribora in the ads that might be what you're looking for :

Try a Solid State Rectifier instead of the GZ34 as these valve rectifiers pump a LOT when switched on. Something like the good old Sovtek SSR or any other (or make one yourself).

Definitely ToneRider pickups that are quite cheap and will be as good as any high end boutique pickups.

Sad and terrible news. Will be missing the MB1 and the comment following. May he rest in peace.

Or Super Glue with accelerator. It will be harder than the original material. You'll then have to file it to the correct height and width. A new bone nut is certainly a better idea, that said. PS : I wouldn't say it has been filed too much, but rather slaughtered with a cutter or even maybe a screwdriver or a kitchen knife or a ... herring. 😆

Right and the fact that time is stretchable too...

Superb design, I agree. Too bad they don't make a sixer headless fretless with 18mm strings spacing at the bridge ... yet. Will we all end up playing cheapo basses ?

Do call the Customs to explain your issue as a private person, so not needing any business authorisation : they will be very helpful.

As I wrote, I've done a few times the other way, from Belgium, where I'm living, to the USA and Canada for repair purposes. Once all the documents are filled and that it's done the same way for the return, it's a hassle free operation. But bureaucracy meaning a delirious amount of paper, just play their game and everything will be fine. Also ask the the repair center for an RMA (Return Marchandise Authorisation/Agreement) number with the reason for it stated as this will be the first proof that it is indeed a repair.

Somebody stole my hair during the night and I've got an alien getting out of my belly.

Now, that's 12 ! 😁

Calling @Steve Browning ! I've done it the other way a few times, there's a lot of papers to fill, but you won't have to pay any exporting and importing taxes.

Plus 3 days every 10.000 years to be very precise. Bloody dyslexic mathematicians.