skankdelvar

Bass / GTR market doesn't seem to follow the same rules as others - e.g. art, books, vintage cars. 'Rarity' doesn't seem to enter the equation - after all, there must be thousands of pre-65 p-basses out there. And they're worth £3,000 - 50,000! Whereas a numerically rarer yet comparably 'good' EB0 would go for £1,000 - 3,000. 'Older' seems to be the driving force, not 'fewer' If these rules applied in the art world, a Constable would go for lots, but a Damien Hirst for pennies. While we might relish such an outcome, it clearly does not pertain to commercial reality. For the record, I reckon cheap 50's and early 60's basses - Danelectro, Valco, Sears, Harmony, National etc - are the ones to watch. After the classics, but before Jap-Crap. But YMMV.

One guitarist is a good guitarist. Two guitarists are swine.

Used to have them at Survival Studios (Rehearsal room in Acton, W. London) dunno if they still do. Sounded ************* glorious, almost the best sound ever. Problem was, the early ones crapped out about every 3 days. Heat related problems, bit like those on the DSL's and TSL's. Circuit board warping, cold solder joints. If you're going to buy a VBA, get a later one, or one that's been past an amp tech. Probably wise to upgrade the fan. Plus, there's a lot of power tubes in there. Re-valve costs v. high. I reckon possible to do them 2 at a time, rather than a full set. And the rig, even in 4 spkr format, weighs ludicrous. But despite all this, it's soooooooo worth it.

+1 on posting the audio. Go on, go on, go on, go on, go on, go on!

Commodore semi-acoustic.

Visceral root-ists of the world unite! Is this some sort of horrid stinky fusion jazz rock with surly little augmented chords - usually a sign the band's about to break up. 1) If it's in 4/4, only play on the 1 and the 3, rather than the usual 2 and 4, but let the note ring across the evens... 2) Play either half as many (or twice as many notes) as you were playing before 3) Wait till rehearsal when, using your fretting hand only, pedal one hideously clashing note all the way through, while pointedly reading a very long classic novel such as Don Quixote. Then nut him.

Blues - Muddy Waters - The real folk blues / Stevie Ray Vaughn - Couldn't stand the weather / Jimmy Reed Greatest Hits Folk - Dick Gaughan - A handful of earth / John Martyn - Solid air / Richard and Linda Thompson - I want to see the bright lights tonight Pop - Beatles - Sergeant Pepper / Abba Gold / Madness - first album Rock - Rolling stones - Exile on main st / Sugar - Copper blue / Green day - American idiot Good luck.

Ibanez Rick in mapleglo. It was 1979, it cost £100 and I thought it was sooooo cool. And I still do. Sob.

[quote]Engaging the audience doesn't require lighter fuel[/quote] Works for me - squirt the punters with it and you soon get their attention.

[quote name='dave_bass5' post='263580' date='Aug 16 2008, 01:08 PM']yeah, i always remember it as Rokas. Hadn't even noticed the name change. Other than picks Ive not brought anything in that shop but it always seems busy and there always seems to be a heavy metal riff or parrot fasion solo emanating from there when i walk past.[/quote] But there's a fairly helpful luthier in the cellar. Didn't have a part in stock, but explained how to bodge one, to save me money. Good bloke.

[quote name='waynepunkdude' post='257138' date='Aug 7 2008, 12:49 PM']Well I'll be damned I thought it was Rockers but I bought a soft case from there for my Squire and it says "Rokas" on the front, it was one of there own brand ones maybe the embroiders got it wrong.[/quote] Late and prob of no interest by now, but it used to be called Rokas years ago. Then it got bought and the new guys changed the name to Rockers. It always used to be pronounced 'Roa-kers' (even by the staff), but I suspect it was originally a wordplay and meant to be pronounced as...errrr....Rockers. Oh FFS, I'm sorry, it's the sort of thing keeps [i]me[/i] awake at nights.

Only if there's space. I don't dance so much as twitch rhythmically, shudder, star-jump, drop-kick, then roll about a bit and glare wildly at the punters. Occasionally climb on tables, balcony, spitting fake blood and sporting an enormous fake p*nis. I'm an oboeist with the Bournemouth Philharmonic.

+1 on Steve Rowse in Surrey. Done loads of stuff for me - all good. Apart from repairs, if you've got a specific sound in mind, he encourages you sit there with him while makes adjustments. Also plays mean blues harp. www.stevesamps.co.uk

In answer to your original question, which I seem to recall was about drilling and filling side dots... The idea of using 'dowels' is sound, as it avoids filling, sanding and refinishing the neck. Cocktail sticks are good for this - they're hard, unlike matches. Also, they're already light coloured, which means they'll accept a bit of colouring, if needed. You'll find them in supermarkets. Get the type with one sharp end and one flat end, so you've got a nice smooth machined flat end surface, which removes the need for rubbing down flaky end bits. You'll need the cocktail sticks, a small drill bit of the same (or very slightly larger) diameter as the cocktail stick and a small tube of glue, preferably wood glue. If you have access to a hand drill, this will give you much more control, as electric drills have a habit of running wild... You may wish to test the following procedure on some scrap, or on part of the neck where it won't be seen. First, brace the neck so it doesn't move Decide how deep you want to drill - suggest no more than 2mm. Measure this off against the side of the drill bit, and wrap a bit of tape around the drill above this point, so you've got a little depth gauge. Measure and cut a section off the flat end of the cocktail stick to a slightly shorter length. Cut off more flat ends. Suggest you start at the position marker nearest the bridge end of the neck, so if your first effort's less satisfactory, you won't be playing up that end as often as down nearer the nut (!) Using a tack or a small nail, gently create a tiny depression in the centre of a position marker, to site the drill bit. Drill the first hole to depth. Tiny dab of wood glue on the end and sides of the dowel and site it in the hole to be filled. Push gently in till the flat top is dead flush with the edge of the finger board. Using something like the face of a steel rule to push it in will help to ensure a flush fit. Gently dab off any surplus glue that may extrude from the hole. Try not to smear it along the neck edge. Check that your result is satisfactory by sighting along the edge of the neck. If you're not sure, very gently run your finger across the dowel. It should be flush and you shouldn't feel it protruding. Don't push it in too far, or you'll have a tiny pit... If acceptable, repeat process along the neck until finished. If not, adjust your measurements. (***best tested on scrap beforehand, as mentioned above***) Leave to set. Make a nice cup of tea and watch 'Stenders. If the dowels are flush, you won't need to rub the neck down. If the filled holes look too obviously different in colour from the surrounding wood (don't know if yours is light or dark) then a tiny dab of wax crayon, or wood dye / stain of a close colour should disguise the dowels. No need to re-spray... Or you could just run an angle grinder along the edge of the neck...

Buying a new PC. Will run light-weight-ish DAW on it. Prob an LE version, (Cubase, Sonar, Pro-tools, haven't decided). Max likely simultaneous recording channels - 2. Max playback channels - 10 or 12. Got choice of q6600, q9300 or q9450. Anyone have any views? Should I stretch my budget to the 'better' items, or is it all b*****ks, and the 6600's fine? ta in advance for the wisdom