Doctor J

Pat Badger isn't a name, it's an instruction for those who live on the razor's edge.

I had heard it a lot before I ever heard it from him, it's not as if it was rare before he adopted it too.

Well, I'm just repeating what he said when the bass was released. He said it's a P pickup under the one cover, so...

Yup.

Mark King is the King for a reason. If you've got gear that doesn't have his name on it, that's some rare shizzle.

Lots of them, I would guess, it's not an unusual thing. Billy Gould's Zon is a PJ setup with a single cover for the P. You could get one made out of wood fairly easily.

The recordings never lie.

I remember chrisguitars, usually a decent site, had a Coronado II bass listed for quite a while. For some reason, an owner had crudely gouged a hole, roughly the size of a cornflake, into the back of the neck around the 5th fret and inlaid a plastic jewel, like an emerald. They probably used their cro-magnon forehead to hammer it in. It was't a clean job, it wasn't a smooth job, the jewel stuck out, quite literally, of the neck. Eventually, it sold too. People forgive all kinds of sins if the thing is old.

I'd say crazy, personally, but I'm not the target for old gear. I would not be surprised at all if it sells at that price.

The pickup is wired to the switch and the switch is wired to the preamp, no? Leave the switch alone, so.

Vigier Passion and Arpege have 40mm nuts and the strings don't taper out too much at all on their way the bridge. They're far comfier than a 4001 too and usually quite light.

Any thoughts? Well, I wouldn't really have a use for it so I won't buy it, but you might have an entirely different set of criteria. What do you think?

If you use .105 for E when tuned to E, then it would make sense to try to keep E, A and D the same gauge, no? I use a .145 for B on a 4 string ESP Jazz I have in BEAD and sometimes drop that B to A. In my experience you've got to have bigger differences in gauge the lower you go, not smaller.

Hate is a very strong term, needlessly so. Many basses have been bought and sole over the years, can't say I've ever been so upset as to actually hate any.

I think slap bass and funk are two very different things. Slap can be a feature of funk but, to me, funk is about punctuating space, the interaction between multiple instruments and silence, combining to create a very rhythmic whole. Someone is slapping a bass does not make it funk, frequently it's the very opposite.

Expect the asking price of any old tat to skyrocket in the aftermath.

But the bar on a 5 string is not an unusual feature across other brands.

The bar is used on almost every Floyd Rose equipped guitar, many of which have headstock adjusted truss-rods. It's not an issue, in my experience, when it comes to truss-rod adjustment. I agree with you on the 4-string one, though, I've done the same on every 4 I have, either that one or the Hipshot one.

Not enough to strip the wood, it appears.

You might say you found what you were looking for?

The three separate string tree efforts, when one bar would provide uniformity of break angle simply and cleanly, for me ruin what would be an otherwise tasty looking design. It just looks messy, like they never really thought through what they were trying to achieve and bodged a solution from the parts bin.

I go by feel and sound, never used a ruler or measuring device once. I like minimal relief, so that's the first thing I set and the key to the entire setup. Action is set by feel as every bass is different, but generally I like a low action where I can get a bit of grit by digging in but it's clean when I lighten up. It depends on the bass. Once the bridge is set, I never adjust it again. Pickup height is done by listening to what's coming out of the amp and adjusting to taste. My view on the nut is your clearance over the first fret shouldn't be too far away from clearance over the second fret when you fret at the first. I've never bought a new bass where I haven't needed to cut the nut slots deeper. Once those are done I wouldn't ever expect to touch them again. Relief adjustments alone should keep things in line from then on.

No, bad design. Loosen the string, then re-wind it, feeding each wrap under the previous one, so it increases the break angle over the nut. The better angle you can create, the less you'll have this problem. There are string trees which also pull the A string down, but that's a solution for a later time. https://www.public-peace.de/product_info.php?info=p1042x935_hipshot-string-retainer--3-strings-.html&no_boost=1

Show a picture of the issue as it's not very clear what is going on.