Doctor J

Record the sound so people can hear it and you'll get the answer much, much quicker. Even if it's just recorded on your phone, it will be much better than trying to use words.

That enormous flag pole could be turned into a sun-blocker very easily, should Mr. Burns wish it to be so.

Ehhh... not quite. The C in CNC stands for Computer and weren't in use by Fender until the mid 80's, I believe. The idea behind the Mexico factory was to churn out high volumes of units at the lowest possible cost. This means minimising the human involvement and automating as much as possible. The labour intensive manual methods of the 50's and 60's are exactly the opposite of what the Mexican factory is doing. Whoever told you that is, I suspect, a little misinformed.

Get Flea back on a Wal - not a Stingray, not a Jazz, not his Jazzray, not his Modulus, not an Alembic - his Wal.

To be honest, I'm more forgiving of someone who gets it all wrong but is, at least, consistent. Those do it for only one or two strings but get it right for others... well, I have a ticket to ride on Hell's black wings for those people.

There's a thread about an early 70's Precision with a five figure price tag and a neck just as misaligned. Nobody seemed to care about that, just that it was old. Fender can get away with this because they have always gotten away with this. Brand names are more important than quality.

I feel awkwardly ahead of schedule with this one. I have the general idea in my head, recorded drums yesterday... we're only four days into the month. Something's up.

Can you elaborate on the tone control. When you turn the tone all the way down, does the volume go all the way down? Is it functioning as a tone control at all? When the tone is all the way up is the output acceptable in comparison to your other basses. Etc. It sounds like you have a wiring issue but, with such scant details, it's not easy to guess what the problem actually is.

CD?!?!?! LUXURY!!! Back in my day, all we had was tape, with so much hiss it sounded like you were in a pit of snakes and, as the tape stretched, you would have to change your tuning to match. We were lucky to have it, too!

Check the relief, before you do anything else. Hold a string down at the first fret and the last fret. Check the gap between the top of the 8th or 9th fret and the bottom of the string. If there is more than the width of a business card of space, you have too much relief and you need to tighten the truss rod a little. If the string sits on the frets, you have too little. Once you get the relief right, you can then worry about the rest of the setup, but relief must be first.

Wow, all that money on a "mint" bass still doesn't get you a neck which lines up straight despite "some sanding been done in the neck pocket".

No, loads of people change strings, nothing original about that at all.

Fantastic debut, Wolfram, well done and great job from all.

I think this is all of them Aria Pro II ESP Bacchus EBMM Fender USA Fender Japan Ibanez Lakland Hotwire Marceau Warwick Warmoth Godlyke Levinson Blade Rickenbacker Sadowsky Peavey Hamer Alembic G&L Yamaha Charvel GMR Jackson SGC Nanyo PRS Squier

Also, if you're looking at this original, vintage and rare instrument from the golden era of Matsumoku, then you already know what you are looking at. Why explain it, so? 😂

Like "vintage" and "rare", it has lost all meaning aside from something to catch the eye of a desperate buyer. Get all three words together in the same ad and you should win a prize. Other personal favourites include "L@@K!!!" "Matsumoku" and the wonderful "golden era"

What's also worth mentioning is that Elixir coat the finished string as a whole. There are other brands who call their string coated but coat the wire before actually winding the string, which seems utterly pointless and, having foolishly bought the D'Addario and Warwick versions thinking I could save money, learned a valuable lesson the hard way.

In my experience, new Elixirs are not quite as bright as new uncoated strings (not by much, but worth mentioning). The steels are brighter than the nickels, though, so if you like the new string zing, try steels first. That 45-105 set you mention is my set of choice.

You can do the series/parallel switching on any pot. It would be easier to replace a volume pot for one with push/pull capability and leave the blend as is. The series/parallel switching is independent of the main function of the pot. Of course, once you run in serial, you have essentially only one pickup, and one side of the blend getting a signal.

All uncoated strings are prone to dying, regardless of brand. Your biocrud gets into the windings and that's what makes them sound dull. Different hand produce different amounts of goo. Get a set of Elixir Stainless Steels and wave goodbye to dead strings for a long, long time. The coatings stops finger gunk getting into the windings which means the strings sound fresh for much, much longer than uncoated strings.

I also have several basses which were never owned by Jaco and also never played by him. Perhaps I make more of that as an ad feature when selling? I'd only add one 0 to the price for this level of exclusivity, however, not two.

And you have one extra fret. Imagine the possibilities!

Blurb: A quick glance on a small phone screen, with my deteriorating eyesight, of the seemingly deserted resort made me think of the Jonestown compound, Waco and then some kind of Andromeda Strain type of apocalyptic tragedy, as these things frequently end up. Yeah wrong way, I know 🤣 Technical: Yamaha kit with oak snare recorded by Thomann's cheapest mics and interfaces. Bass is an Alembic Orion, guitar is a Bacchus strat, into an Engl preamp. Vocals by the TalkAny app. All mushed together in protools.

It's an ESP. I think it's the same one he played on the remaining MOP tour dates, a black PJ.