Doctor J

You can also keep a sausage roll there while it cools, so you don't burn your fingers. That's a very versatile design.

Open the contact page in google chrome and have it auto translate?

They're designed to feed the lead around the strap button, which I always do. I've never had any trouble with the ones on my TRBs.

If you mean cool as in it should be dropped in the Antarctic, never to be seen again, then I'm with you entirely 😁

Adding a piece of white insulating tape over the LED would subdue it nicely for indoor shows, too.

You could replace the LEDs in your pedals with higher intensity versions which would be easier to see in daylight. It's fairly straightforward if you can wield a soldering iron.

They'd play stoner for sure.

If you can't hear the difference, do you really need the effect?

Some other gloriously impractical personal faves. Yeah, well, maybe I want to have somebody's eye out!

Back in the mid-80's, when they designed and released the first SRs, a 90's word processor font was a glimpse into the future 😁

The pickup is movable, as I recall. It's interesting but not so easy on these eyes, at least.

The Ibanez SR is, to me, an exceptional headstock design. Compact, well thought out and elegant.

The strings are not misaligned on the neck. The dots are.

1. Easy to change around. I move the bass that side whenever possible. Personal preference. 2. Have you tried a new battery?

A question for those of you with Statii necks - what is the profile of the Jazz neck like? My only experience of a Status graphite neck is an old S3000, which has a flat D type profile at the back. Is the J neck like that or more like a traditional rounded J?

If you go by the principle of making small changes and checking frequently, filing a nut is a simple operation. You learned, as a child, how to pick up an egg, right? Your body already understands the idea of enough force to achieve the desired result and not too much force so you break it. Same principle applies. Make small changes, check the result, stop before you go too far. Easy peasy. It's genuinely nothing to be intimidated by. A bass isn't set up if the nut is too high as it has such an effect on playability. For me, a nut should leave as much clearance over the first fret as a zero fret and no more. Anything above that is needlessly inefficient. Usually, I find the nut, as a whole, is left far too high on factory instruments, not even close to being correct, and, in those circumstances, pop out the nut and sand the bottom of it to achieve the desired result, rather than re-cut each individual slot, so you may not even need a set of round files. Plus, you only need to get it right once. I have never needed to replace a nut because of using a different gauge of strings. The nut slot should be a U shape with the break angle of the string over the nut combined with the string tension pulling the string snugly down into the bottom of the U. Do it yourself or get a tech to do it, but make sure it gets done.

The best thing about joining a ukulele group is leaving it.

At least your username hasn't become obsolete.

Truss rod tweak twice per year and that's about it.

"Oh, you had a tech defret your bass? Well, Jaco did it himself with a butter knife" Checkmate!

Looks nice but why a slab top? Meh.

Is it more fetish or cult than snobbery? The amount of people here who have basses not made by Fender which have had Fender logos put on them... it's not a small number. Some cost more than a Fender they're pretending to be. Why do people feel the need to been seen or associate with one particular brand?

I like that headstock, it's definitely one of the better Fenderish efforts out there.

John Deacon and The Dusty End is a band name waiting for a band.