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Everything posted by Doctor J
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You could replace the LEDs in your pedals with higher intensity versions which would be easier to see in daylight. It's fairly straightforward if you can wield a soldering iron.
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They'd play stoner for sure.
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If you can't hear the difference, do you really need the effect?
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Some other gloriously impractical personal faves. Yeah, well, maybe I want to have somebody's eye out!
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Back in the mid-80's, when they designed and released the first SRs, a 90's word processor font was a glimpse into the future 😁
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The pickup is movable, as I recall. It's interesting but not so easy on these eyes, at least.
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The Ibanez SR is, to me, an exceptional headstock design. Compact, well thought out and elegant.
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The strings are not misaligned on the neck. The dots are.
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Spector Legend NT pre-amp and control knob configuration issues
Doctor J replied to KevP's topic in Bass Guitars
1. Easy to change around. I move the bass that side whenever possible. Personal preference. 2. Have you tried a new battery? -
Status Basses are not taking any new orders for now
Doctor J replied to joe_geezer's topic in Bass Guitars
A question for those of you with Statii necks - what is the profile of the Jazz neck like? My only experience of a Status graphite neck is an old S3000, which has a flat D type profile at the back. Is the J neck like that or more like a traditional rounded J? -
If you go by the principle of making small changes and checking frequently, filing a nut is a simple operation. You learned, as a child, how to pick up an egg, right? Your body already understands the idea of enough force to achieve the desired result and not too much force so you break it. Same principle applies. Make small changes, check the result, stop before you go too far. Easy peasy. It's genuinely nothing to be intimidated by. A bass isn't set up if the nut is too high as it has such an effect on playability. For me, a nut should leave as much clearance over the first fret as a zero fret and no more. Anything above that is needlessly inefficient. Usually, I find the nut, as a whole, is left far too high on factory instruments, not even close to being correct, and, in those circumstances, pop out the nut and sand the bottom of it to achieve the desired result, rather than re-cut each individual slot, so you may not even need a set of round files. Plus, you only need to get it right once. I have never needed to replace a nut because of using a different gauge of strings. The nut slot should be a U shape with the break angle of the string over the nut combined with the string tension pulling the string snugly down into the bottom of the U. Do it yourself or get a tech to do it, but make sure it gets done.
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The best thing about joining a ukulele group is leaving it.
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Just had a reply to my Join My Band posting.
Doctor J replied to solo4652's topic in General Discussion
At least your username hasn't become obsolete. -
Truss rod tweak twice per year and that's about it.
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"Oh, you had a tech defret your bass? Well, Jaco did it himself with a butter knife" Checkmate!
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Looks nice but why a slab top? Meh.
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Is it more fetish or cult than snobbery? The amount of people here who have basses not made by Fender which have had Fender logos put on them... it's not a small number. Some cost more than a Fender they're pretending to be. Why do people feel the need to been seen or associate with one particular brand?
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I like that headstock, it's definitely one of the better Fenderish efforts out there.
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John Deacon and The Dusty End is a band name waiting for a band.
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I'm looking at a Warmoth build with Lusithand electronics and Rautia old style multicoils whenever he starts taking orders again. I could be dead in four years and my missus doesn't play bass 😂
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I wish they'd sell the pickups and electronics separately but I imagine that wouldn't be quite so profitable.
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Great upper access is very possible with bolt-ons. It's just most people seem to be happy to play something designed 70 years ago with a very rudimentary (and cheap) way of attaching one piece of wood to another. Here's a selection of three 24 fret designs, a Warwick neck-through, Alembic set-neck and an Aria bolt-on. Upper fret access is dependent on an extension of the neck into the body for the set-neck and bolt-on, but it's far from difficult to make a bolt-on at least as accessible as neck-through. If you don't hear the supposed benefits and detriments of one compared to the other, and I am one of them, then why would you lose and sleep over it once the instrument itself is sufficient quality?
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As long as it takes the guitarist to spot the only plectrum he brought to the gig on the dark stage floor, bend down and pick it up, then struggle to figure out which pedal he unplugged during that effort and get himself working again. Sustain is serious business.
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Have bolt-on, neck-through and set neck. It doesn't make enough difference for me to care.
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I've done it a couple of times. Kicking someone out is never a pleasant task but you went about it in a respectful and dignified way. The way the guy responded, with neither respect nor dignity, emphatically shows you made the right decision. Onwards and upwards.