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goonieman

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Everything posted by goonieman

  1. goonieman
    ok, as the famous irish saying goes...try, try, try again, then STOP: there's no point in making a fool out of yourself. I'm sending to the tech thanks for all your help anyways
  2. goonieman
    Update: I wired the pickup ground to the back of the vol pot (instead of bass), and now at least I get a signal. It doesn't really seem to matter how I wire the battery negative and the grounds to the output jack, I still got a very basic signal that doesn't seem to be affected by the treble OR bass. The volume DOES go up and down though. I've noticed that I can remove the battery... and the signal remains. So the circuit is somehow acting in passive mode. The battery is working (9v) - but somehow the preamp is completing the signal, but not adding any EQ...?! Thoughts anyone?!
  3. goonieman
    I should add, i'm only getting a basty buzzing with vol on min. With vol up high, I touch the knob and no buzzing. No sound at all from the pickup... I get 1.31 K when I hold a multimeter across the black/red wires vs the green/white/plain wires (it's a seymour duncan SMB-4D). And I get 2.6K DC for each wire (the black and red separately) ([url="http://www.seymourduncan.com/comparetones"]http://www.seymourdu...om/comparetones[/url]). So at least I know the pup works.
  4. goonieman
    Hi everyone - problems here... Wired it exactly as above - however, 1. I wired the green/white/ground to the back of the bass pot, not vol pot (tried it back on vol pot - no difference) 2. there is no ground from the preamp?! - so I wired an extra wire from the vol pot to the sleeve I've got no signal to the pup (tapping with scredriver gives nothing). When I touch vol pot, I get a noisy ground loop. I'm still not sure i've wired the jack correctly though: As per this: http://www.axetec.co.uk/axetec_media/sckt07_connections_550b_2.gif I have signal (white) to the 'tip' ; battery to 'jack centre' and bridge/vol pot ground to 'jack barrel/earth'... I've joined the case to the jack barrel (the outer two lugs) any thoughts?
  5. goonieman
    PM'd
  6. goonieman
    [quote name='ikay' timestamp='1439999534' post='2847451'] Parallel wiring gives a slightly more open sound and is a good starting point for tweaking with EQ to taste. You can easily EQ a bit more mid grunt into parallel if desired. Standard Stingray wiring is parallel if you're looking for a rationale. It all depends what sort of sound you're looking for. If you want serious grunt as your starting point go for series but it will be fiddlier to dial out the grunt and get back the more open and extended range of parallel. [/quote] This. This. I like this. I'm going with this.
  7. goonieman
    Bump-a-delica Having some trade interest on this... but cash is forefront at the moment in my list of priorities. The right colour EBMM Sterling, Ray34CA or Stingray SLO might get my blood pumping though
  8. goonieman
    I probably will at some point when I figure out the wiring... but then again, i'm sure its worth it. I had a switch on my warwick $$ for that, and all I got was 'louder and more middly'. What i'm after is a solid rationale on which to choose if I had to. i.e. are there noise implications? impedance issues that will impact on FX use, etc. thanks
  9. goonieman
    Hi All, I'm revamping a fleabass (the cheapie ones - not a modulus!), and am routing for a MM pickup (seymour duncan SMB-4D ceramic). I'll be using a stingray 2EQ preamp. My question is, should I go for series or parallel wiring? If I go series, it will be hotter and more middly, but I can dial that out at the amp if desired, right? Are there any other issues I should be aware of? For me, series or parallel is kind of irrelevant because one can adjust onboard or at the amp... am I right? thanks
  10. goonieman
    ok, thanks guys. I'll have to keep an eye on the SLO and sterlings in that case. I fear the former will be very hard to find though...
  11. goonieman
    Hi all, I've been considering the USA SUB series... but prefer slimmer jazz style width and profile. Can anyone tell me the specs on the made in USA sub neck please? [been googling for a while and finding conflicting data] Thanks
  12. goonieman
    Hi all, I've been considering the USA SUB series... but prefer slimmer jazz style width and profile. Can anyone tell me the specs on the made in USA sub neck please? [been googling for a while and finding conflicting data] Thanks
  13. goonieman
    TRADED/GONE THANKS FOR YOUR INTEREST ************************************************* Hi All, [color=#333333]This is a pretty rare '96 "Golden Era" Warwick Corvette - an awesome player. I truly LOVE the playability, shape and balance of this beauty (no neck dive) - but my Warwick experiment has more or less ended: I've decided i'm more of a stingray type of guy. I can't really get on without that 'zing' from the humbucker and stingray preamp.[/color] [color=#333333]Would trade for stingray 2EQ, an EBMM Sterling, or a stingray-ish type bass (a (maybe something else?), but cash is preferred.[/color] [color=#333333]Body and neck are the rare Wenge and Bubinga combination to give that signature 'Warwick Thumb' tone. In fact, aside from pickup location, there is not much in it comparing to a Thumb really (IMO). This corvette will get you 90% toward that Thumb tone at a much cheaper price! [/color] [color=#333333]Not the chunky neck version on this... closer to the slim profile.[/color] [color=#333333]MEC pickups with an upgraded 'Glockenklang' preamp (£100) . These preamps are hi-fi to say the least - super crisp transparent tones on tap, very well balanced and no 'hiss'! Passive-Active push-pull [/color] [color=#333333]Frets have been levelled and crowned (£100) It plays factory fresh with no 'valleys' in the frets or undue buzzing. Relief set low too (6-8 thou). Truss rod works perfectly. The bass has been well cared for (waxed regularly).[/color] [color=#333333]There is a chip (1mm x 3mm) in the side of the neck at first fret - small, and is never felt when playing (see photo of headstock on left). Other tiny marks and bruises as you would expect, but nothing significant at all. No buckle rash! [/color] [color=#333333]Recessed straplocks (you'll need to buy the dunlop ones to fit it).[/color] [color=#333333]Setup with DR hi-beams, low and fast effortless action. [/color] [color=#333333]Comes with the fantastic Just-a-nut 1 - fully adjustable and in perfect condition with no gouges in it. [/color] [color=#333333]These Proline (German) wenge versions are also rare because they had to start using Ovangkol when their supply ran out in the late 90s. [/color] [color=#333333]What more can I say... this is an absolute killer bass! Great patterns in that wood! [/color] [color=#333333]Comes with a new warwick gigbag (has a 4 inch cut in one side - but only on the first layer of material, not the foam). [/color] [color=#333333]I prefer to deal face to face. Meet in London? . However, I would consider posting.[/color] [attachment=198676:IMG_4693.jpg] [attachment=198677:IMG_4701.JPG] [attachment=198678:IMG_4704.JPG] [attachment=198679:IMG_4726.JPG]
  14. goonieman
    [quote name='Chiliwailer' timestamp='1439741545' post='2845386'] Because it's a Japanese EX series, you can tell by the logo, where the n meets the g Further info here.. [url="http://www.musicmanbass.org/mycustompage0008.htm"]http://www.musicmanb...tompage0008.htm[/url] [/quote] Ha! I was on that site looking for answer but never found it. Well spotted. Anyone played one of these? Seems a gamble in terms of the price... suddenly 650 GBP seems too high.
  15. goonieman
    Hi all, I was looking at this... but i'm concerned: why is there no 'Made in San Luis, Obispo' on the back? Everything else looks legit... http://www.gumtree.com/p/guitar-instrument/musicman-stingray-early-90-s/1128883708
  16. goonieman
    [quote name='tauzero' timestamp='1439725133' post='2845215'] If you look in the "Item specifics" section, you'll see that the brand is given as "Warwick". Reported as a counterfeit. [/quote] Nicely done.
  17. goonieman
    If you want that oxidation/bubbling - I think time is the only answer. For tarnishing/ rustiness - you want to bang them randomly against some steel wool for a while, throw some stones/bunch of keys on top (fender custom shop trick). Then put some strong vinegar with a handful or two of salt in a tupperware dish. Immerse and leave for 24 hrs... then repeat as neccessary. I've done this to match a bridge to an old guitar... results were great.
  18. goonieman
    Exactly - on previous 2 post above... only to add, that being familiar with warwick products and paraphernalia, that is not (in my experience) a Warwick 'Rockbag'. The whole lot is a sad indictment really, especially given the seller seems to have potentially given up on playing bass now... I dread to think that if he/she was given a playable entry- level bass - like a well setup classic vibe - that they would still be learning and thriving playing bass....
  19. goonieman
    [quote name='Kev' timestamp='1439622173' post='2844390'] No, there is nothing 'wrong' with the Ad. But, why name the gig bag make in the title? Why not comment, specifically, that this is a copy of a Warwick and not a real one? Where did he get this bass from? Yes, you would be pretty daft to buy this thinking it was the real deal, but people will make this mistake, particularly in the dying minutes of the auction. He is being devious. [/quote] Indeed, it's dubious and questionable resale ethics... at best. If you look closely, its very shoddily put together. I remember being a teenager and I was very naive... i'd be tempted by such a thing. Very sad.
  20. goonieman
    damn fine basses. Apparently (I can be corrected) the pups are wired in SERIES on these. I had one, but had to sell it because the neck was twisted
  21. goonieman
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electric-Bass-complete-with-Warwick-rock-bass-case-extras-ideal-learner-guitar/262001036265?_trksid=p2060778.c100276.m3476&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D29974%26meid%3Dabef5f354be0441f88d57d51a9438bb6%26pid%3D100276%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D231626322716 knock yourself out. This is so badly done I feel just sick looking at it....
  22. goonieman
    ok, as soon as the preamp arrives I will give it a whirl. Thanks so much again for your help and time on the diagram,
  23. goonieman
    That is REALLY helpful - especially i'm a 'paint by numbers' guy! Just to be sure: the only thing you're saying is wrong with your version of the diagram is that the bridge should be connected to the pots, not the sleeve? cheers again
  24. goonieman
    Anyone?
  25. goonieman
    Actually - not attempted this yet (still waiting on the preamp) but it still does not make sense according to this wiring diagram... Any suggestions? Tip - hot (easy) and Battery to earth (barrel or case? are they the same thing?) That leaves 'jack centre' (ring) totally untouched? Surely not
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