SH73

[quote name='DBerriff' timestamp='1462620093' post='3044418'] Sceptical - or unrealistic expectations? For the money and form-factor it looks like an attractive option for apartment or travel use (practicing, not gigging obviously). [/quote] He plays with pick hence the sound is clean.I doubt it woukd sound clean if I dag my fingers into the strings.

[quote name='fretmeister' timestamp='1461583845' post='3035802'] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cRe-ARB_JIA Looks like a great little thing. The guitar version is very good. [/quote] I'm sceptical about these little amps.I don't think it sounds clean when playing finger style hard.

Very nice

Old fashioned p bass and jazz bass

[quote name='Dan Bass' timestamp='1462373919' post='3042489'] yes I know this, my mistake I should of added the fact that I want to use it for headphone use too, without the amp. A lot of times i practice too late for amp in cab use, so I run my Bass through my rack effects then into Tascam for headphone use and without the amp I just can't quite get that perfect clank sound so adding the RPM should do it, right? [/quote] I use Fender Rumble 100 and the sound I'm getting through headphones is better than amp sound.let us know how you get on.

[quote name='Dan Bass' timestamp='1462282569' post='3041720'] Can you get that awesome clanky,clangy sound from the RPM? Also can you get that wicked Overkill DD Verni Bass sound like off the W.F.O. album? [/quote] Clanky sound is achievable with amp alone.

[quote name='tonyxtiger' timestamp='1462302298' post='3041990'] Hell yes. The parametric mids are before the tube emulation so you poke a good 1.5k into it you'll get plenty snarly, clank. If you can't find one to try then maybe a nearby music shop might have the sansamp para driver which is basically a smaller foot pedal variation. In my book the RPM is better than the RBI / VTBass / bass driver. Better drive. More flexible. Best at that Grindy midrange. I used to run 2 of them in a rack and it worked a treat. [URL=http://s464.photobucket.com/user/tonyxtiger/media/Bass/image_zpsno53fu9v.jpeg.html][IMG]http://i464.photobucket.com/albums/rr9/tonyxtiger/Bass/image_zpsno53fu9v.jpeg[/IMG][/URL] [/quote] Loving the rigs.Different from the usual standard boring look.

[quote name='Qlank' timestamp='1462285112' post='3041755'] https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/laser-miniature-hex-key-set-mm-and-af/ They had this set on the counter as I was paying for something else. Had a bit of difficulty finding a key to fit my Badass 2 also. [/quote] Yep I bought these this morning

[quote name='dangoose' timestamp='1462187116' post='3040849'] it does look like an EV dust cap to me as well. The old MKIII 260watt combo's usually had a metal dust cap type black widow. If the driver has been previously swapped then it might be advantageous to source a modern replacement unit like an Eminence. could save a few quid over the cost of a direct BW replacement. [/quote] Mine still has a silver dust cap.

[quote name='MoonBassAlpha' timestamp='1461861449' post='3038318'] Isn't that an Electrovoice logo upside down on the dust cap in the photo? [/quote] The image is for illustration purposes only.

I use Focusrite 2i2.It came with Ableton live 9 lite. Pretty cool once you learn how to use it. I use it on Windows 7 but most you tube lessons are with Mac.

I'm a newbie when it comes to music and recording, but may give this a go!

Nice link

[quote name='4stringslow' timestamp='1462202665' post='3041055'] Hardly extortionate in the grand scheme of things if you really need one. Buy a dozen for the same delivery cost Or try to find a decent high street ironmongery. [/quote] Found three in our town

[quote name='hubrad' timestamp='1462202378' post='3041049'] Get hold of the smallest one you currently have, and give each side a wipe on a sharpening stone. For light duty such as saddle height it's worked a treat for me if I can't lay my hands on an imperial tiny one but have a few metric ones around. Otherwise Ebay is your friend in this.. [/quote] I'll give this a go.

[quote name='4stringslow' timestamp='1462201240' post='3041036'] http://www.canford.co.uk/Products/55-587_HEX-KEY-0.05-inch [/quote] £10 delivery

Anyone knows where these can be purchased from? It's for badass bridge II.Amazon only sells sets with extortionate delivery.E bay is long delivery time.any suggestions?

Which EB are they mate?

[quote name='ezbass' timestamp='1462031206' post='3039810'] Useful link, thanks for posting. It would've been nice to have had the new EB Cobalts included as these are what I'm using at the moment (I previously used La Bellas) and his opinion on the differences he perceived would've been extra useful. [/quote] How do you find EB cobalt?

Strings are like Christmas cards. The shelves at shops are flooded and you're confused unless you are happy with "that'll do" approach. I have come across this review. Hope it may assist to those as confused as me. Hope not too biased. http://fenderbassplayer.com/flatwound-string-reviews

[quote name='Twincam' timestamp='1461718048' post='3037142'] Here is an easy way to set up a bass, with household tools that should give you a very playable bass and a pretty standard setup. Tools need are a 4mm or 3/16 Allen key for the truss rod, a 2.5 mm allen key and a 2mm allen key. Also a small allen key or small flat head screwdriver for the bridge saddle adjustment. Finally a standard business card like the ones from a taxi company not a plastic credit card etc they are too thick. Of course if you can invest in the correct tools but this method is fine for getting a bass in playing condition, for someone with limited tools. First tune your bass normally then fret at the first fret and then with your elbow of your right arm hold down the e string at about the 17th fret. This is so you can check the relief of the neck, place the business card corner first in between the 7th fret of the E string while its still held down at the first and last fret. It should slide in nicely if it doesn't fit in as the gap is too small then the neck is too straight and needs more relief, if it fits in but there is also a gap the neck has too much relief (too bent). the card should just fit in there nicely maybe a very slight drag. Business cards tend to be around .010 - .015" in size which is around about the average in most factory specs for relief. If you tighten the truss rod turning it right it will make the gap smaller, left for increasing the gap. This is of course while your looking at the nut right on if your holding the bass tightening looks like your going left and vice versa!. Assuming the truss rod access is in the headstock. Ok so turn the allen key small turns at a time, then check the relief as above, remember each time you tighten or loosen the truss rod you must put the A string back and re tune all the strings so you get an accurate reading of the relief. Its time consumming and can sometimes be a pain in the bum but has to be done right. Once you have the relief set, then we adjust the bridge saddle to alter the final string action (height). There are a two different areas to measure the string height at the 12th and 17th fret i suggest if you play hard we go for the measurements at the 12th if you play lighter the 17th fret. There is also of course the fact nearly everyone likes a different string height but, 2.5mm - 2mm is about standard. To measure the height get your 2.5mm allen key and i will assume you have chosen to measure from the 12th fret. and without fretting the string measure the height of the E string from top of the fret to the bottom, and adjust at the bridge saddle so again the allen key slides nicely in and out with very slight drag. Make sure the bridge saddle is level it does not need to be angled, also while taking measurements make sure the bass is in relativly the same position you play, as necks move slights amounts at different angles. Ok So once the E is at 2.5mm you can set the A, D and G in this way the final G string should be 2mm. So maybe E and A could be 2.5mm and D and G 2mm in height from the top if the 12th fret to the bottom of the string. And again after every single small movement of the strings you make at the bridge every time before the height is rechecked it need to be put back into tune. The bass other than now needing to be intonated should be in very reasonable playing condition. If you dont have a 2.5mm allen key a 3/32" one gives you about 2.4mm. Feel free to set the string height higher or lower, but using allen keys or even drill bits do a good job of measurements. 4mm is the heights action that could be considered playable, under 2mm is low but the lower you go the more buzzing you might get if you hit the strings hard. Buzzing from frets 1 to 7 indicate too little relief, buzzing in the higher frets indicate to low an action, buzzing all over might indicate just that your playing too hard for the setup. Then you would set intonation, and recheck the string heights (adjust if needed) if the intonation was well off it will change string height on adjusting. Sometimes you have to go back and forth a bit, setting the action and intonation. I could write a full on essay about various other set up problems and remedies. Watch setup videos, read my little guide and hopefully it will all make sense. Hope what ive written helps. [/quote] Thank you 👍

[quote name='Norris' timestamp='1461879771' post='3038526'] It's a pretty hefty thing to have shipped from Europe though [/quote] Not really. There are lots of companies that offer cheap shipping.

[quote name='Dad3353' timestamp='1461878376' post='3038516'] Yes, it's called 'experience', and just to boost your motivation, know that it's the first forty years that are the worst, after which things sometimes tend to get (very slightly...) better. [/quote] In that case I'm Ok!

Thanks everyone.I suppose it takes practice to get it nearly spot on.

[quote name='Dad3353' timestamp='1461745982' post='3037231'] Again, just a generalisation, but if it's the cab I want to capture, it's not the cone I want. I don't listen to bass with my ear up to the cone, so I don't try to capture that way. For guitar, it's a bit different, but even then, I'd be micing from a distance (usually 1 m or so...), and maybe, just maybe, also adding in a specific 'cone tone' with an E609 suspended from the cab top; especially for a sealed cab. I suppose it depends to some extent how you're playing your bass, too..! If you're playing like a guitar (lots of upper mids, soloing etc...) it may make sense. How do you cope if there's a tweeter in the cab if the cone is close-miced, for instance, or if the cab is ported..? No, for bass, I'm quite careful in the mic placement, but would do it with trial and listening, rather than any measurement of distance from cone. It may turn out to be centred, but I wouldn't be looking specifically to centre or not. I just listen first, and place the mic where it sounds best to me. I'd be more concerned as to why the DI component is, it would seem, unused. What's wrong with it that you can't mix it in..? It's not essential, of course, but I'd need a pretty good reason for not wanting any at all in the mix. [/quote] I have tried 50 cm today and the result was outstanding